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REPORT ^ 4j?o_ 

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OF 



Tie Cruise of the U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear 



AND THE 



OVERLAND EXPEDITION 



FOR THE 



RELIEF OF THE WHALERS IE" THE 
ARCTIC OCEA^, 



FROM 



NOVEMBER 27, 1897, TO SEPTEMBER 13, 1898. 



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WASHINGTON": 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

1899. 



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Tkkasuky Depaktmknt, 

Document No. 2101. 
Division of Rerenve-Cutter Serricc. 




INTRODUCTORY 



Early in November, 1897, it was brought to the attention of the 
President, by the Chamber of Commerce and the people of San Fran- 
cisco, Cal., that eight vessels of the whaling fleet were caught by the 
ice in the vicinity of Point Barrow and their crews were in great 
danger of starvation. The danger was so imminent and serious, and 
the necessity for relief so urgent, that the President immediately 
ordered an expedition to be fitted out. 

Little hope Avas held out by those experienced in work in the Arctic 
regions that anj^hing could be accomplished by an expedition in the 
winter season, but by the order of the President and under the direc- 
tion of Hon. Lyman J. Gage, Secretary of the Treasury, the U. S. 
revenue cutter Bear was prepared for the expedition by the Chief of 
the Revenue-Cutter Service. 

The plan of the expedition was drawn, and the whole placed under 
Capt. Francis Tuttle, R. C. S., whose experience and ability espe- 
cially fitted him for siich a command. The officers and crew were 
all volunteers, and although the Bear had just returned from a six 
months' cruise in Arctic waters, she was prepared, fitted out, and 
sailed from Seattle, Wash. , November 27, 1S97, just three weeks from 
the date of her arrival from the North. 

Ten months later she returned again to Seattle, bringing four crews 
of wrecked whalers, and having fully carried out all the orders and 
accomplished all the purposes of the expedition without loss or 
accident of any kind. 




WILLIAM McKINLEY, 
President cf the United States. 




LYMAN J. GAGE, 
Secretary of the Treasury. 



LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS. 



Treasury Department, 

Office of the Secretary, 
Washington, D. C, November 15, 1897. 

Sir : The best information obtainable gives the assurance of trnth 
to the reports that a fleet of eight whaling vessels are icebound in the 
Arctic Ocean, somewhere in the vicinity of Point Barrow, and that 
the 265 persons who were, at last acconnts, on board these vessels 
are in all probability in dire distress. These conditions call for 
prompt and energetic action, looking to the relief of the imprisoned 
whalemen. It therefore has been determined to send an expedition 
to the rescue. 

Believing that your long experience in arctic work, your familiarity 
with the region of Arctic Alaska from Point Barrow, south, and the 
coast line washed by the Bering Sea, from which you but recently 
returned, your known ability and reputation as an able and compe- 
tent officer, all especially fit you for the trust, you have been selected 
to command the relief expedition. Your ship, the Bear, will be offi- 
cered by a competent body of men and manned by a crew of your own 
selection. The ship will be fully equipped, fitted, and provisioned 
for the perilous work in view, for such it must be under the most 
favorable conditions. 

It is of course Avell understood that at this advanced season of the 
year the route to the Arctic Ocean through the Bering Straits will be 
closed to you, and because of this known condition you will not 
attempt it. Therefore your efforts will be directed to establishing 
communication by means of an overland expedition with the whaling 
fleet, not only for the purpose of succoring the people, but to cheer 
them with the information that their relief and ultimate rescue -will 
be effected as soon as the condition in Bering Straits will permit your 
command to adA*ance. 

With this purpose steadily in view, you Avill prepare an expedition 
of at least two commissioned officers and one forward or petty officer 
of your command, to undertake, from a landing that you will effect, 
the journey overland to Point Barrow. You Avill assign an officer to 
the charge of this expedition, furnishing him with such written instruc- 
tions for the government of his party as, in your judgment and dis- 
cretion, will dictate as most likely to further the success of the under- 

5 



6 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

taking-. This party should be prepared while you are en route and 
be ready upon leaving Unalaska, bound north,- to take advantage of 
the first opportunity afforded for a landing. They shouht be amply 
provided and fully equipped for arctic travel to successfully accom- 
plish the trying journey and work which will be ahead of them from 
the landing point. You will make your own selection from the per- 
sonnel of your command, volunteers preferred, of the officers whom 
you will deem best fitted, physically and otherwise, to encounter the 
hardships incident to the trip in view. There are several plans 
deemed feasible, all leading to the same end, by the adoption and 
execution of some one of which, the primary purpose of the expedition, 
as above given, can be accomplished. The first and great need of 
the whalemen will probably be food. It is believed that the only 
practicable method of getting it to them is to drive it on the hoof. 
To effect this object and the other euds set forth above it is proposed: 
First. That leaving Unalaska you proceed north with your command 
to Cape Nome, passing between Nunuvak and St. Matthews Island, in 
sight of Nunivak; thence north between St. Lawrence Island and the 
coast of Alaska, carefully noting the extent and condition of the ice, 
if any is met, keeping well over to the mainland, the object being to 
ascertain where there is ice, or indications of it, in Norton Sound. If 
the way is clear, or jo\\ can by anj 7 means land the party on the north 
shore of Norton Sound, between Cape Nome and Cape Prince of 
AVales, natives can be communicated with at either Cape Nome, Sledge 
Island, Point Rodney, or Point Spencer. Should a landing be effected 
at any point named, or near it, a quantity of provisions, previously 
made ready, should be landed and cached there, to be afterwards con- 
veyed by the natives to the reindeer station at Port Clarence, and 
left in the care of Mr. Brevig. From the point of landing will begin 
the overland expedition from your command, above dwelt upon, and 
the officer placed in charge of it should be fully instructed upon the 
following general lines: 

1. Communicate as quickly as possible with W. T. Lopp, at Cape 
Prince of AVales; with a native named Artisarlook (generally known 
as Charlie), at Point Rodney. Failing these, then with Kittleson, 
superintendent Government reindeer station at Unalakaleet. 

2. The purpose is to collect from the herds at Rodney and Cape 
Prince of Wales the entire available herds of reindeer, all to be 
driven to Point Barrow. 

3. Mr. Lopp is to take charge of this herd and make all necessary 
arrangements for herders, sleds, and dogs; and the necessary food for 
the use of the party must be landed from the ship. Such clothing as 
can be carried should be transported. It is suggested that a reindeer 
might carry a light pack of, say, 40 pounds. 

4. Mr. Lopp must be fully impressed with the importance of the 
work in hand, and with the necessity of bending every energy to its 
speedy accomplishment. 



CRUISE OF THE U S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 7 

o. He must also make arragements, providing sledges and so forth, 
for transporting the overland expedition (from your command) to 
Point Hope. 

6. When the deer are collected and the start made, the party from 
the Bea r should travel with them as far as Kotzebne Sound, to make cer- 
tain that thej T are properly started on their route. 

7. That point being reached, one officer and the necessary drivers 
should then push on ahead along the coast to Point Hope, leaving the 
other officers and Mr. Lopp to follow with the herd over the roiTte 
selected to reach Point Barrow. 

8. Impress upon Mr. Lopp and the natives employed that they will 
be amply rewarded for their labor in furthering the object of the 
expedition. 

9. Arriving at Point Hope, the expedition will probably get news of 
the condition of things at Point Barrow. 

10. If it should not be known at Point Hope that the whaling fleet 
is icebound and its people in distress, inform the white people there 
of the fact that they mil be expected to take care of such men as will 
be sent down later from Point Barrow. Q ? 

11. At Point Hope the officer in charge of the expedition should, if 
possible, engage Jim O'Hara at that place to guide the party to Point 
Barrow, together with as much provisions as can be transported. 

12. Then push on, following the coast. En route parties of men 
may be met with, making their way to Point Parrow. 

13. On this stretch of coast (between Point Hope and Point Barrow), 
at Point Lay, Ice Cape, Wain wright Inlet, and vicinity of Point Belcher, 
are natives who well know the situation at Point Barrow and can fur- 
nish aid in getting there. 

14. Upon arrival at Point Barrow, the officers of the expedition 
should assemble, if possible, the masters of the ships, Charles Brower 
and Thomas Gordon, of Liebes's Whaling Station, Mr. Marsh, Profes- 
sor Mcllhenny, and EdAvard Aiken, late of Point Barrow Refuge Sta- 
tion, ascertaining the situation, quantity of available provisions and 
clothing. 

15. If the situation is found, as now anticipated, to be desperate, 
the officers must take charge in the name of the Government and 
organize the community for mutual support and good order, appor- 
tioning the provisions on hand, and slaughter as manj^ reindeer as 
necessary (which it is hoped will have arrived) for food, to make all 
hold out until August, 1898, when you will arrive in the Bear. Such 
reindeer as are left will be turned over to the Presbyterian Mission at 
Point Barrow. 

16. The people at Point Barrow must be divided; some sent along 
the coast to Point Hope and others among the natives to the south. 

17. In any event a part, if not all, of the people from the ships 
should be at Point Hope by July 1, where they can be reached and 
succored a month earlier than at Point Barrow by your ship. 



8 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

18. No opportunity for hunting, sealing, or whaling, whereby the 
food supply may be added to, must be neglected, and provision must 
be made for the natives emploj'ed. 

19. The officer in charge of the overland expedition, from whatever 
point started, must be instructed to deal firinly and judiciousty with 
every situation that may confront him, particularly after arrival at 
Point Barrow, he bearing in mind that he represents the Government 
on the spot. 

20. Having succeeded in landing the overland expedition with ade- 
quate instructions, you will seek such harbor as you may deem proper 
to await results and the opening of navigation in Bering Straits. 

21. Before parting with the officers of the overland expedition you 
will instruct them to communicate with and report progress to you, 
should opportunity offer, giving Unalaska as your address, as you will 
doubtless return there for fuel and perhaps to winter. 

Second. The foregoing supposes that you will effect a landing and 
start the expedition from some point on the north shore of Norton 
Sound. If, however, because of insurmountable obstacles, such as 
imperiling your command or getting fast in the ice, not to escape 
until spring, you should fail to make a landing for your party, you 
will try St. Michael or the western end of Stuart Island. At St. 
Michael the officer in charge of the overland expedition will appty to 
the militaiy commandant, Colonel Randall, United States Army, for 
transportation to Cape Prince of Wales, or engage Mr. Englestadt, at 
Unalakik, or St. Michael, where he rnay be wintering for the purpose, 
when your instructions given as above will be carried out. 

Third. Finding it impossible to effect a landing at any point in 
Norton Sound, you will then try Cape Vancouver, on the north side of 
which is located a Catholic mission, where transportation can be 
obtained to Andreafsky, and thence to St. Michael, or yon may effect 
a landing at some one of the villages on Nunivak Island, and cross 
the expedition on the ice to the mainland. 

Fourth. Having exhausted effort and found it impossible to land at 
any one of the named points north, then try Bristol Bay, anywhere 
from Cape Newenham to Ugaslik, where natives can be procured to 
convey the expedition to Togiak, Nushagak, or Ugashik. White men 
will be found at these places, or any of them, who can command and 
provide the necessary transportation to Bethel Mission, or to Lind's 
trading post, on the Kuskokwim River. There transportation can be 
procured to the Russian mission on the Yukon, and from there to St. 
Michael or Unalakleet, where the instructions above given will become 
operative. 

From whatever point the overland expedition is landed from the 
Bear its first aim will be to get the reindeer herd in motion for Point 
Barrow, and you will instruct the officer given charge that celerity of 
movement is of first importance; that he must, so far as possible, live 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 9 

on the country and change his teams for fresh ones as often as he can. 
You will be guided by circumstances in outfitting this expedition from 
the Bear: 

1. As to the point at which it will be landed. 

2. As to the facilities available for traveling expeditiously. 

Fifth. If all the attempts to land the overland expedition on the 
Alaskan coast of Bering Sea should be prevented \>j the ice, then 
consider the possibility of sending the expedition by way of Katmai, 
in the Shelikoff Straits. Obtain all information relative to facilities 
and time on this route. You are aware that David Johnson made the 
trip from Bethel Mission, on the Kuskokwim River, to Katmai last 
winter in thirty-one days, and as he was in no haste it is thought his 
time can be materially shortened, if deemed practicable to attempt 
the journey to St. Michael by that route. 

Before leaving Unalaska bound north, make such preparations as 
may be possible, even over the ice, if it promises success. Procure 
there dogs and kyaks, arrange with the Alaska Commercial Company 
for credit at any and all of their trading posts and connections, and 
gather all the information, relative to means of travel and the time 
required through the region from Bristol Bay to the Yukon. 

Sixth. The routes and methods outlined in the foregoing are sug- 
gestions for your consideration. You doubtless have formed plans 
of your own and believe such can be executed with better success. 

You will understand that your movements are not, by anything 
herein contained, in the least hampered. The whole situation may 
be summed up under two heads, to wit : 

1. Food must be gotten to the starving men. 

2. The best and most feasible method of doing this is to be adopted. 
If the straits were open the whole thing would be comparatively easy 

of solution and accomplishment. That route being, to all intents and 
purposes, hermetically sealed, the next best course is to be attempted. 

Before sailing from Seattle you will procure as manj^ suitable sleds 
as you deem necessary, fitted with necessary appurtenances, as sleep- 
ing bags, etc. 

You are hereby given full authority and the largest possible lati- 
tude to act in every emergency that may arise, and while impossi- 
bilities are not expected, it is expected that you, with your gallant 
officers and crew, Avill leave no avenue of possible success untried to 
render sxiccessful the expedition which you command. I transmit 
herewith orders to Lieutenant- Colonel Randall, United States Army, 
commanding at Fort St. Michael, and to Mr. Lopp, at Cape Prince of 
Wales, to extend to you and the overland expedition every facility 
and aid in their power. In the next summer, when you shall have 
carried to a successful termination the rescue of the people in the 
Arctic and have them safely on board the Bear, you will sail with all 
for San Francisco direct. 



10 



CRUISE OP THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAU. 



Mindful of the arduous and perilous expedition upon which you 
are about to enter, I bid you, your officers and men, Godspeed upon 
your errand of mercy, and wish you a successful voyage and safe 
return. 

Respectfully, yours, 

L. J. Gage, Secretary. 
Capt. Francis Tuttle, R. C. S., 

Commanding U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear, Relief Expedi- 
tion. for the Whalers in the Arctic Ocean, Seattle, Wash. 




CAPT. C. F. SHOEMAKER, 
Chief Revenue-Cutler Service. 




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REPORT 

OF THE 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REYENUE CUTTER BEAR, AND 
THE OVERLAID EXPEDITION. 



TJ. S. Revenue Cutter Bear, 
Unalasha, Alaska, December 10, 1897. 

Sir: I respectfully report the arrival of the Bear at Unalaska at 
1.30 p. m. December 9, ten days and one and three-fourths hours 
from Port Townsend. During the first part of the passage rough 
weather was encountered and progress was necessarily slow. During 
the latter half, and until making the Aleutian Islands, pleasant 
weather prevailed. At Unalga Pass a snowstorm was met with, which 
lasted until after our arrival in Unalaska. The decks being encum- 
bered with salt provisions in barrels, and a large portion of the for- 
ward coal bunker being filled with dry provisions for the whalers, 
which can not reach them until next season, I deemed it best to store 
these provisions while the Bear would be absent on the relief expe- 
dition. Arrangements were made with the agent of the Alaska Com- 
mercial Company for the storage, and at 2 p. m. the discharging 
commenced. At 8 p. m. the provisions were all in the storehouse. 
At 9 p. m. cast off and steamed to Dutch Harbor, to be ready for coal- 
ing ship in the morning. The morning of the 10th commenced with 
a heavy northerly gale, with rain and snow. Most of the forenoon 
was consumed shifting stores from the coal bunkers to the holds. 
After that was finished coaling proceeded, and now, at 10 p. m., is 
going on. Before midnight enough coal will have been received to 
have nearly 300 tons on board. If the gale dies out I propose, imme- 
diately after midnight, to leave for the north. Under my directions 
Lieutenant Jarvis has had the frame of a boat, to be covered with 
canvas, sawed out by Mr. Moran. This will be of use in the event of 
meeting open water while crossing the ice whenever a landing may 
be made. 

Lieutenant Jarvis has secured seven dogs here, and made up what 
of his outfit was not completed in Seattle on account of hurried depar- 
ture. At present it is my intention to send Lieutenant Jarvis, Lieu- 
tenant Bertholf, Dr. Call, and Koltchoff on the relief expedition. 

11 



12 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Lieutenant Jarvis thinks, and I coincide with, his opinion, the fewer 
white people in the party the better ; natives being able to get along with 
so much less in the way of outfits and provisions than white people, it is 
preferable to employ them. I shall give Lieutenant Jarvis such instruc- 
tions as will empower him to use all the resources of the country 
through which he may pass. His promises to natives in regard to 
compensation for services Avill be respected. As yet I can not form 
any conclusion as to what I shall do. All depends upon where I meet 
the ice, and the attending conditions. It will be my endeavor to carry 
out the Department's instructions as nearly as possible. If I do not 
return to Unalaska within a month, it may be concluded the vessel 
has been frozen in. If such should be the case, no fears for the safety 
of the crew should be apprehended, as I shall take ample means to 
secure their safety. The mail address of this vessel A\ r ill be Unalaska, 
Alaska. 

Respectfully, yours, P. Tuttle, 

Captain, R. C. S., Commanding. 
The Secretary of the Treasury, 

Washington, D. C. 



IT. S. Revenue Cutter Bear, 
Dutch Harbor, Alaska, December S3, 1897. 

Sir: I respectfully report the return of the Bear to Dutch Harbor, 
Alaska, from the trip to land the relief expedition to the whalers 
imprisoned in the Arctic Ocean. 

The Bear, having finished coaling and watering ship, sailed from 
Dutch Harbor at 1.35 a. m. December 11, shaping a course to sight 
Nunavak Island. Strong southerly winds and thick weather pre- 
vailed. Owing to the thick weather I did not deem it prudent to run 
near enough to Nunavak Island to sight it. Therefore at 4 a. m. 
December 12 the course was changed to go well to the westward of it. 
At 8 p. m. December 12 considered we were to the northward of the 
island and shaped course for the east end of St. Lawrence Island. At 
12.45 p. m. December 13 saw thin scum of ice, and shortly afterwards 
came across detached pieces. At 1.22 p. m. made Paunk Islets off 
Southeast Cape, St. Lawrence Island, bearing NW. |W., distant 4 
miles. The outlines of Southeast Cape could be dimly seen through 
the snow squalls. At 2 p. m., on account of the decreasing tempera- 
ture of the water and increasing amount of drift ice, steered east in 
search of open water. At 3 p. m., finding less ice, steered NNE. At 
3.40 ran into fields of broken ice mixed with slush ice. At 4, finding 
the ice getting too heavy to run through, turned and steered SSW. 
At 6.20 slowed down to half speed, and continued so with reefed main- 
sail, jib, and staysail, tacking to the eastward and southward every 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 13 

four hours. It was my intention to keep near the outer edge of the 
ice until daylight, in order to have a look at the ice to the northward, 
but the farther we worked south the thicker the mush ice became. 
Knowing that as soon as the wind died out the sea would go down and 
the mush ice would form into a solid mass which it would be impossi- 
ble for us to get through, at 6.40 a. m. on the 14th I went ahead full 
speed to SSW. At this time the mush ice was so dense that we made 
but slow speed through it. At 8 a. m., being through the worst of it, 
hauled by the wind and commeuced beating to the southward. At the 
time we turned back, in latitude 63° 13' north, longitude 167° 28' 
west, Cape Nome bore N. by E. f E., magnetic, distant 85 miles, and 
Sledge Island N. i E., magnetic, distant 96 miles. It was with much 
regret that I came to the conclusion it would be impracticable to reach 
either of those places. Southerly gales had been blowing for several 
days, and would have banked the ice up on the shores for many miles 
out to sea, rendering it impossible to reach the shore over the rough 
ice. The risk of being frozen in (which would have defeated the 
object of the expedition) was too great to be taken. Cape Vancouver 
being the next nearest and perhaps available place, I determined to 
endeavor to reach there. Fortunately for us the weather cleared up 
on the morning of the loth at 9 a. in., the cape was sighted, and the 
vessel headed for it. The chart gave soundings of 10 fathoms. The 
lead proved these soundings to be erroneous, and it was necessary to 
proceed with great caution. 

At 1 p. in., being within 2 miles of the cape, slowed down and ran 
along the south shore in search of an Indian village shown on the 
chart. At 2. 40 concluded there was no village, turned, and steamed for 
the north side of the cape. At 3. 50, just as entire darkness shut down, 
made out a village some 4 or 5 miles distant to the northeastward. 
Ice was now making rapidly and there was every appearance of a gale 
coming on. A start Avas made to run to sea, but the water shoaled so 
rapidly, and darkness making it impossible to see any distance, it was 
thought best to get as near Cape Vancouver as possible and come to 
anchor. This was done at 4.15 p. m. During the night the current 
set to the westward between 2 and 3 knots per hour, bringing vast 
quantities of ice, which, being broken up, did not cause the vessel to 
drag anchor. 

At 8.45 a. m. on the 16th got under way and steamed toward the vil- 
lage. At 9.20 anchored in 6 fathoms of water, village bearing E. by N. 
distant about 5 miles. Lieutenant Jarvis, with the second cutter, 
started for the village; just as he had left the vessel some native kyaks 
were seen near the beach about a mile from the vessel. His attention 
was called to them and he pulled ashore where they were. At 10.15 
Lieutenant Jarvis returned and reported that the people ashore 
belonged to the village of Tununak. Among them was a half-breed 
trader who agreed to take the rebef party to St. Michael and have 



14 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

them there in ten days from the time of starting. He had dog teams 
and could get supplies on the route across the country. As the 
weather was threatening, the party and their outfits were loaded into 
two boats and started ashore. Before the boats returned the ice com- 
menced to run, and before the first cutter could reach the vessel she 
was caught in it, and, not being able to get out, was rapidly being car- 
ried to leeward. Anchor was hove up and the vessel pushed through 
the ice until the boat was reached. Being in 44 fathoms of water, the 
anchor was let go to bring the vessel head to the current. While 
thiu was being done, Lieutenant Berry, in the second cutter, got 
alongside and reported that Lieutenant Jarvis had concluded he would 
like the 7 dogs and 2 sleds we had on board (Lieutenant Jarvis had on his 
return from the shore told me they would not be needed), and also 
some other articles. At this time we were some distance to leeward 
of the lauding place, and it was necessary to get to windward in order 
to get a boat ashore. Anchor was hove up and the vessel steamed 
as far to windward as the depth of water permitted, and again 
anchored. The dogs, sleds, and other articles were loaded into the 
cutter and sent ashore in charge of Lieutenant Berry. At 4 he 
returned and reported the paity had left the beach, and the tracks in 
the snow showed they had started for the village; so he had landed 
his boat load and returned to the vessel. Considering the present 
anchorage dangerous, the vessel was got under way and headed for 
sea. At 4.40, being in 44 fathoms of water, extremely dark, and every 
indication of a gale, turned and stood SE. At 4.55 anchored in 04 
fathoms of water. During the night a strong easterly gale with snow 
and very violent squalls prevailed. At 10.30 p. m. the ice commenced 
to run and continued until toward morning, but fortunately it was 
not heavy enough to part the chain. As the gale came from off the 
land there was no sea of any account. 

At 8.40 a. m., on the 17th, got under way and steamed to the west- 
ward, running at half or slow speed, occasionally stopping and back- 
ing when the water shoaled to less than 5 fathoms. The bottom was 
very irregular. At times 13 fathoms would be found for a distance of 
3 or 4 miles, and then this would decrease to 4f fathoms. The land 
was shut in by the falling snow, thus making it impossible to tell 
which way or how far the currents had set the vessel. The sound- 
ings on the chart having been found to be wrong, no reliance could 
be placed upon them. A rapidly falling barometer predicted the 
approach of a gale, or I should have anchored the vessel until the 
weather cleared. Knowing the auchors would not hold in the heavy 
sea that a gale would create in such an exposed place, there was noth- 
ing to do but to continue feeling our way along. At 2.10 p. m., dur- 
ing a momentary cessation of the snowstorm, a rockj- islet off the 
northeast end of Nunavak Island was seen and recognized, bearing 
SE. by S. f S., and having something to take a departure from we 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 15 

could now go on with more confidence. It was 7 p. m. before the 
depth of water increased sufficiently to warrant running at half speed, 
and at 8 o'clock, having' 13 fathoms, went ahead at full speed, steering 
W. by S. along the north shore of Nunavak Island. At 10 p. m. there 
was a strong SSW. wind, bringing a heavy beam sea, and the vessel 
was put under short sail. At 11.30, on account of the heavy sea, ran 
at half speed, and at 2.35 a. m. on the ISth the wind and sea increased 
to such an extent as to make it necessaiy to heave to. The vessel 
was brought to the wind on the port tack and lay in that position 
until 9.45 p. m. on the 18th. The wind then moderating, a course 
was shaped for St. Paul Island, but the heavy sea did not permit run- 
ning at full speed until 6 a. m. on the 19th. St. Paul Island was made 
at 7.50 a. m. on the 20th, and the vessel came to anchor in Southwest 
Bay at 11.50 a. m. Mr. J. Murray, special agent in charge of the 
islands, Mr. Redpath, agent of the North American Commercial Com- 
pany, and others came on board. They reported all well on the 
island, and that no A*essels had been seen since the departure of the 
Bear on October 21 last. They were greatly pleased to receive the 
mail and newspapers we brought them. Mr. Murray said the seals 
branded in 1896 had returned to the islands with the brands perfectly 
legible and their skins destroyed as far as commercial value was con- 
cerned. 

It was my intention to remain only a few hours, to give the people 
a chance to answer their letters, and then proceed to St. George Island. 
A strong northerly wind coming up, I knew there would be no land- 
ing at St. George, therefore remained at St. Paul until 6.30 a. m. on 
the 21st, Avhen the wind having moderated, got under Avay and steamed 
for St. George. Arrived off the village at 11.30 a. m., but a heavy sea 
was running and a landing was impossible. Signals were made to 
" try Garden Cove," on the southeast side of the island, and the Bear 
was steamed around there and anchored at 1.15 p. m. Here, too, a 
bad sea was running on the beach, through which it would be danger- 
ous to attempt a landing in a boat, so the mail was inclosed in a small 
cask, to which a line with a heaving stick was attached, taken in the 
cutter, and carried to the outer edge of the breakers, where the heav- 
ing stick was thrown ashore and the cask drawn through the breakers. 
There was no way of getting the mail from the shore, but Mr. Judge, 
the special agent, shouted that all was well on the island. Upon the 
return of the boat, at 2.30 p. m., anchor was hove up and a course 
shaped for Unalaska, which was reached at 12.50 p. m. December 22. 

During the cruise much bad weather was experienced, but neither 
the vessel nor the crew sustained any injury. Everything will be 
ready to leave for the north as soon as there is any possibility of get- 
ting news from the expedition or the imprisoned whalers. 

Inclosed is a copy of my instructions to Lieutenant Jarvis. (See 
Appendix.) In addition to these, a copy of the instructions received 



16 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

by me from the Department under date of November 15, 1S97, Avas 
also given him. 

I inclose a chart showing the track of the Bear from the time she 
left Unalaska until her return to that port. 

Respectfully, yours, F. Tuttle, 

Captain, R. C. S., Commanding. 
The Secretary of the Treasury, 

Washington, D. C. 



U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear, 
Norton Sound, Alaska, June 28, 1898. 

Sir: The Bear left Unalaska June 14 for St. Lawrence Island. 
Pleasant weather Avas experienced during the passage, and the island 
was reached at 12.30 a. m. June 19. After a stop of a couple of hours 
a start Avas made for Indian Point, but Avithin an hour heavy ice Avas 
met with and a thick fog settled down, and it was deemed advisable 
to return to the island and aAvait clearing Aveather. 

At 9 a. m. of the 20th the fog lifted, and another start Avas made 
for Indian Point. After steaming through 20 miles of ice it became 
so closely packed as to prevent further progress, and the vessel was 
again headed back for St. Lawrence Island, which Avas reached at 5 
p. m. There being some open water to the nortliAvard and eastward, 
I concluded to try for King's Island, but in a couple of hours ice Avas 
again met Arith, and until 9 a. m. of the 21st Avas spent Avoi'king 
toward that place. At that time the ice ahead Avas closely packed, 
but to the northward appeared open water, and the A^essel Avas headed 
in that direction. At 11 a. m. more open Avater was struck, and St. 
LaAvrence Bay, Siberia, being the nearest port the A'essel Avas headed 
for it, and at 10 a. m. Ave reached the village at North Head. The 
bay Avas solidly frozen, making it impossible to reach the reindeer 
station, so a messenger Avas sent to notify the superintendent of the 
station of the arrival of the Bear and that she avouIc! remain at North 
Head until night in order that he might communicate with us. 

During the evening the superintendent, Mr. Kelly, came over and 
reported there Avould be about 800 reindeer to transport to the Alas- 
kan shore. At 2 a. m. the 23d, was got underway for Cape Prince 
of Wales, where she arrived in the eA r ening. 

Upon landing I found that Mr. Lopp, Avho went to Point Barrow with 
Lieutenant Jarvis, had returned, and I Avas greatly pleased to learn 
that the overland expedition had been entirely successful, the reindeer 
having arrived in good order, and no accidents had happened to any 
of the members. I forward hereAvith copies of reports I receiA r ed from 
Lieutenant Jarvis. 

Lieutenant Jarvis Avas obliged to buy a great many articles for the 
expedition and to hire a number of natives for various purposes. As 



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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 17 

lie could not cany with him enough articles to pay for services, etc. , 
I had instructed him to give written orders, to be presented on board 
the Bear, and which I would make good. 

I have already given out a quantity of flour and sugar, but other 
articles, such as cloth, tobacco, powder, soap, etc., are not in the ship's 
stores. I shall purchase them in St. Michael and deliver on my return 
next week. 

At St. Michael the Alaska Commercial Company supplied the party. 
At Point Hope, H. Liebes & Co. furnished the supplies. Vouchers 
will be made out and forwarded to the Department. 

Lieutenant Jarvis mentions the necessity of a supply of clothing 
and bedding for 100 men. I am in doubt as to my authority to pur- 
chase them, but as it is a clear case of absolute necessity I will, if 
possible, obtain them at the lowest price. 

The matter of compensating Mr. Lopp for his services can not be 
settled until I see Lieutenant Jarvis. Mr. Lopp deserves the greatest 
praise and a substantial reward for what he did for the expedition. 
He left his wife and children, the only white people in this part of the 
country, alone in an Eskimo village and went with Lieutenant Jarvis 
on what looked very much like a forlorn hope. 

Charlie Artisarlook, of Point .Rodney, also left his family, took all 
his reindeer, and went with Lieutenant Jarvis, and this forenoon I 
found his wife and child in a camp of natives on Sledge Island, where 
they were hunting seals. Mrs. Artisarlook said they had nearly 
starved since her husband left, as seal and fish, their principal food, 
had been very scarce. I gave her ample provisions to last three 
months, and promised to bring her husband back from Point Barrow. 

I expect to reach St. Michael to-morrow, and as soon as supplies can 
be obtained I shall proceed north. 

I do not anticipate being able to reach Point Hope before the loth 
of July, as there are enormous quantities of ice both in Bering Sea 
and above the straits in the Arctic Ocean. 

Respectfully, yours, F. Tuttle, 

Captain, Revenue- Cutter Service, Commanding . 

The Secretary of the Treasury, 

Washington, D. C. 
15396 3 



REPORT OF SECOND LIEUT. E. P. BERTHOLF, R, C. 8. 



U. S. Revenue-Cutter Service, 

Point Hope, Alaska, July 15, 1S9S. 

SIR: In accordance with the instructions of Lieut. D. II. Jarvis, 
Revenue-Cutter Service, commanding the overland relief expedition, 
under date of March 5, 1898, a copy of which is hereby inclosed 
(see Appendix), I respectfully submit the following report: 

The plans referred to for the return of Mr. W. T. Lopp related 
principally to the transportation of provisions up the coast to the 
mouth of the Pitmegea River. With this object in view, I left Nelson's 
Whaling Station on March 31, with two sleds loaded with the pro- 
visions for the cache, and after three days' hard traveling, for the 
sleds were heavy and the trail very bad, reached the mouth of the 
Pitmegea River. On the waj' up we had stopped at the Corwin Coal 
Mine and procured a few boards from the old ruined house there, with 
which to build our cache. Upon reaching our destination we found 
no driftwood handy for posts, so we cut into the side of an old native 
hut, scooped out the snow and made a cache in that way, after which 
we closed up the opening with the boards we had brought along and 
left a note between two boards stuck up in the snow, to call attention 
of whoever should pass that wa}' coming from Point Barrow. Hav- 
ing finished our task, we started to return on the morning of the 3d 
of April, and now having light sleds made excellent time, reaching 
Cape Lisburne that same night, a distance of some fifty-five miles. 
The next day we returned to the station here. On the way down we 
also cached some seal meat at the Corwin Coal Mine, to be used for 
dog food. Both caches were found by Mr. Lopp when he returned 
from Point Barrow, and he left here on the 23d of April for his home 
at Cape Prince of Wales, leaving one deer herder behind with ine, to 
care for the deer that had strayed from the main herd while en route 
to Point Barrow. 

When Mr. Lopp and myself left Anyok (near Cape Kruzenstern) 
with the deer herd, on the 21st of February last, it had been decided 
to send back to their homes four of the native herders then with the 
herd, and these were consequently left behind at that place, provision 
having been made for their return travel. 

Having accompanied Lopp and the deer herd along the coast as far 
as the place where he was to strike across the lagoons for the Kivalena 

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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 19 

River, I parted company with him on February 27 and proceeded to 
this place, in accordance with previous orders from Lieutenant Jarvis. 
Here I received word on March 21 that some of our deer were at An y ok 
in charge of two of the herders. I sent word to them to drive the 
deer up here, and on April 21 the herd reached this place in charge 
of Ituk and Keok. It appears that somewhere between Anyok and 
the Kivalena River these deer, 34 in number, had strayed from the 
main herd unnoticed, and a native who had acted as a guide had dis- 
covered them on his return to Anyok. As the four herders had not 
yet started on their return trip to their homes, they went after the 
deer and drove them back to the village, after which they all started 
for their homes at Cape Prince of Wales, except Ituk and Keok, 
who then drove the small herd here. Three deer had been killed 
for food on the way, so that when they reached here there were 31 
in the herd, 2(i of them being females. I gave the herders my 
tent and camp gear, employed three young natives to help them, and 
sent them with the deer several miles back into the hills, where the 
moss was good and they would not be troubled by the dogs from the 
villages. There the camp was established and the deer cared for. 
When Lopp passed here on his way home lie took Keok with him, 
leaving Ituk to care for the animals, with the help of the three young 
natives I had engaged. From time to time I have supplied them with 
such clothing and provisions as were deemed necessary, and also 
tobacco, cai'tridges, shot, lead, and powder. All these articles I 
obtained from Mr. Nelson, manager of Liebes & Co's Whaling Station, 
at Point Hope, with whom I have been living, and charged the same 
to the account of the overland relief expedition. Up to the present 
time 2 of the old deer have been killed for food and 25 fawns have 
been born, 5 of which have died, thus leaving 29 old deer and 20 
fawns in the herd, and all in good condition and apparently well 
cared for. 

With regard to the illicit distilling of spirituous liquor by the natives, 
I have made several trips to different villages and visited and searched 
all the native houses from Cape Thompson to Point Hope, discovering 
and destroying six stills and about ten gallons of mash nearly fer- 
mented. On two of these trips I have been assisted by Capt. Peter 
Bayne and Mr. Henry Koenig (commonly known as Cooper), who have 
whaling stations on this point, and I have been most materially assisted 
by Mr. Nelson, who accompanied me on several of the trips. 

When I visited the native village at Point Hope, Mr. Nelson and 
myself searched several of the houses there, but finding no traces of 
what we were looking for I concluded to talk to the natives and try 
persuasion, Mr. Nelson acting as interpreter. 

After telling them about the bad effects of whisky, I recited instances 
where whole villages had been depopulated by indulgence in the 
liquor, having thereby been rendered incapable of providing the nee- 



20 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

essary food supply for the winter. The natives appeared very much 
impressed by what was said, and they soon showed us many places 
where the stills had been hidden, buried in the snow, and in a short 
time we had destroyed nine stills, which had been concealed in all 
sorts of snow banks, where it would have been almost impossible for 
us to discover them. The following' day a native woman came all the 
way down here from Point Hope, a distance of 15 miles, and gave me 
five still pipes, the tubs of which she said had been broken up. 

Although whisky was introduced into northern Alaska many j^ears 
ago, when the ships first began to make trading voyages to that region, 
the distilling of spirits was not known or practiced by the natives 
until about ten years ago, when white men who were engaged in the 
whaling business on Point Hope taught the old chief Ah-tung-owra, 
of the Point Hope village, a process of obtaining a sort of alcohol 
from a mixture of flour, water, and sugar or molasses. The chief 
taught the process to his henchmen, and they in turn gave it to the 
people of the different villages they happened to visit, and thus it was 
passed along until there was not a single village on the coast from Point 
Barrow south that did not have one or more distilling apparatus 
going whenever the natives could procure the necessary flour and 
molasses. During the past few years, however, the Point Barrow 
natives have stopped making this liquor, having realized its bad 
effects, but from Point Hope all along the coast to Cape Prince of 
Wales, and even as far as Unalaklik, the natives will brew and drink 
this "whisky" as often as they can procure the necessaiy ingredients — 
molasses or sugar. 

The general practice is to mix together one part each of flour and 
molasses with four parts of water, and then let the mixture stand for 
several da} T s in a warm atmosphere until it is fermented. The dis- 
tilling apparatus consists of a 5-gallon coal-oil tin, an old gun barrel, 
and a wooden tub. The fermented mash is put in the coal-oil tin, 
and the gun barrel, which serves as the coil, leads from this tin through 
the tub, which is kept filled with cracked ice. A fire is then built 
under the tin, and as the vapor rises from the heated mash it is con- 
densed in the gun barrel by the ice in the tub, and the liquor comes 
out at the end of the gun barrel drop by drop and is caught in a tin 
cup or wooden bowl, whichever happens to be on hand. 

While the distillation is in process, the natives who have an interest 
in it, by virtue of having furnished the flour or molasses or the still, 
sit around and patiently wait for a sufficient quantity of spirits to 
drop from the gun barrel to allow them a drink. The process is nec- 
essarily slow and it takes a long time to obtain a half pint of the 
liquor, but the "whisky" makes up in strength what it lacks in 
quantity and it does not take much of it to make "drunk come" to 
several natives, which, being the object for which the stuff was brewed, 
the result is highly satisfactory from a native standpoint. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR 21 

In these debauches there is no discrimination made on account of 
sex, the women being entitled to and obtaining their share as well as 
the men. The natives being as a rule good natured, the liquor gen- 
erally has the effect of making them hilarious and voluble, and they 
make a great deal of noise shouting and singing, but they are not 
usually vicious when intoxicated. Of course when a bad-tempered 
native gets drunk he becomes very bad, and there is likely to be a 
cutting or shooting affray, but this is not often the case, and the bad 
result of whisky making and drinking comes from the fact that the 
life of the average Eskimo family is one continual struggle for enough 
to eat and enough to wear, and when the elder members of a family 
keep on a drunken debauch for several daj^s, the children sicken for 
lack of nourishment and die. Often in the fall whole villages have 
been known to engage in a drunken carousal for weeks at a time, and 
as they thus neglect to lay in enough fish and game for the winter's 
supply, many of them perish from starvation before the game again 
becomes plentiful in the spring. 

The interior natives do not suffer so seriously from the whisky 
habit as their brothers of the coast, probably from the fact that flour 
and molasses are harder for them to get, and when they come to the 
coast in the summer to trade with the ships, if they do brew the liquor, 
they use up their flour while on the coast, so that when they return to 
their villages they have nothing with which to make the liquor, and 
are thus not rendered incapable of hunting the deer during the winter 
months. 

Although I destroyed in all about twenty stills during the winter, 
there remain, I believe, many other stills in this vicinity which I have 
been unable to discover, but even if they were all destroyed the 
natives could easily make more, and I am convinced that this illicit 
distilling can not be stopped unless the whites are prevented from 
trading molasses and sugar to the natives or these articles are diluted 
with something that will prevent fermentation. "While at Point Hope 
I mixed up two mashes after the native formula, putting in each a 
little yeast to aid feraientation, and in one of the mixtures I put about 
a teaspoonful of seal oil. After allowing the mixtures to remain in a 
warm place for several days, I found the one having the seal oil in it 
had not fermented at all, while the other was fully fermented, and as 
a result of this experiment I recommended to the white traders at 
Point Hope to dilute their molasses with a little seal oil before trading 
it to the natives, but whether or not they will do so is hard to say. 

Some of the older natives having seen the effects of whisky, and 
realizing it is rapidly reducing the numbers of their people, try to 
stop its manufacture by the younger and more thoughtless ones, but 
with poor success; and in this connection I will state that I have been 
asked by several Eskimos, who seemed to be very intelligent, the very 
pertinent question why the white men are allowed to trade molasses 



22 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

to the natives if it is wrong for them to make whisky with it, and why 
the ships are allowed to trade whisky to the natives at all. 

I can not speak too highly of the aid given me by Mr. Nelson in this 
matter, whereas it is an open secret that there have been times when 
white men on Point Hope have encouraged this illicit distilling by 
buying and drinking the concoction after it has been brewed by the 
natives. 

The circumstances of the murder of the native Washok by other 
natives last fall, are as follows: 

About 11 o'clock in the forenoon on the 17th of November, 1807, 
Mr. Rustan Nelson was sitting in his house reading, and Messrs. 
Charles Sandbourne and George F. Tilton were working in one of the 
other rooms, when they all heard two rifle shots fired in quick succes- 
sion, followed shortly after by four others. Nelson thrust his revolver 
in his pocket, rushed out of the house, and there saw, close to the 
house, two natives, Avulik and Shukurana, each with a smoking rifle 
in his hand, standing over the body of Washok, which was lying on the 
snow close to his sled, pierced with six bullet holes. Washok's wife 
was close by, and several other natives were running to the scene of 
the firing. Sandbourne and Tilton ran out soon after Nelson, and 
after ascertaining that Washok was dead and beyond all help, they 
all returned to the house. Soon after the body was carried out into 
the country and put up on sticks, after the native fashion, the mur- 
derers aiding in the ceremony. 

It appears that Washok and his wife were returning to the village 
with a load of wood, the two above-named natives having con- 
cealed themselves, shot Washok when he came near enough to make 
their aim sure. There was probably onty one actual witness to the 
affair besides the two murderers, and that was Washok's wife, all 
the other natives of the village being out of sight at the time, and 
subsequent inquiry developed the fact that these other natives 
knew that the shooting was to take place. The natives gave as a 
reason for the killing that the murdered man was a bad character, 
having threatened the life of an old man of the village, and having 
shot at two men the night befoi-e he was killed, bitt the real reason 
was undoubtedly because of a family feud, of which I will speak 
later. 

After the killing, the two murderers left this place, Shukurana going 
to the village of Tarpkwa, on the northern shore of the Cape Prince 
of Wales Peninsula, and Avulik to another village near Cape 
Thompson. Avulik came back here this spring to work for Nelson 
during the whaling season, and it has been my intention to bring 
him on board the Bear with me when I reported, and turn him 
over to you. I had planned to do this without exciting his suspi- 
cions, for it seemed quite impracticable for me to seize him and 
hold him here as prisoner, there being no place to shut him up 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 23 

securely. It has been the custom of the natives to remain at the 
whaling stations until the ships arrive in the early part of the sum- 
mer, so as to get their pay, and I could easily have persuaded 
him to accompany me on board the Bear without exciting his suspi- 
cion; but this spring, as no whales were caught, no pay was coming 
to the natives, and they have been gradually leaving for the east- 
ward to catch their fish for the winter. Avulik seemed in no hurry 
to leave, and in fact told me he was going to wait for the ships, but 
when I returned to this place on the 10th of Jxdy, after a trip to the 
Point Hope village, I found that Avulik and his brother had departed 
in their canoe for the Kivalena River, where they intend to live 
the coming winter. He probably went to the eastward to fish like 
the other natives, as seal is very scarce here now, and I am sure he 
had no idea of my intention toward him, as I had spoken about it to 
no one but Mr. Nelson, and neither he nor I have talked of the mat- 
ter in the presence of anyone else. Avulik can be found near the 
mouth of the Kivalena River, and Shukurana is somewhere on the 
south side of Kotzebue Sound. The witnesses to the affair can be 
found here, except Mr. Tilton, who is probably in San Francisco. 

This murder was one of a series, resulting from a feud between dif- 
ferent families, all the people connected with the affair being orig- 
inally Port Clarence natives, which tribe have always been notorious 
for the number of their killing affairs. 

According to the native custom and tradition, when one man is 
killed by another, some one of the relatives of the murdered man is 
bound to avenge the deed, and this second murder must in turn be 
avenged, and so on, thus creating a feud, a state of affairs which is 
by no means confined to uncivilized peoples. Usually, however, 
when a native has done anj^ killing which must, according to the cus- 
tom, be avenged, he leaves his village and transfers his home to some 
other part of the coast, so that he Avill be obliged to be continually on 
his guard, and thus it is often many years before the original murder 
is avenged. This was the case in the affair at Point Hope. Washok 
was the son-in-law of a Port Clarence native by the name of Itoy- 
henna, Avho, because of some murder, had moved with his family to 
Point Hope. Avulik belonged to another family that had also been 
obliged to move away from Port Clarence, and had established their 
home on the Kivalena River. Washok had been concerned in the 
killing of some member of the Avulik family, which called for revenge, 
and he met his death last fall as the outcome of that feud. From the 
native standpoint it now becomes incumbent upon some member of 
the Washok family to kill some member of the Avulik family, though 
it may be years before circumstances bring together the representa- 
tives of the two families. 

There being no headman, chief, or lawgiver among the different 
villages or tribes of the Eskimo, each native family is a laAv unto 



24 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

itself, and up to the present time the natives having been under little 
or no restraint, have killed and revenged as their traditions or inclina- 
tions made it expedient. They have, as a rule, confined their killing 
to other natives, though there have been isolated cases where a white 
man was the victim. 

Some time in August, 1897, a young native belonging to the Cape 
Prince of Wales village shot and killed a white prospector by the name 
of Frank Boyd while the latter was on his way up the Noatuk River 
on a prospecting trip. This murder Avas uudoubtedlj 7 committed to 
avenge the death of the young native's father, who was killed some 
years ago by white men on board a trading vessel, during a fight 
between the vessel's crew and the natives of Cape Prince of Wales. 
I do not intend to convey by the above the idea that the Eskimo is 
murderous hy nature. Far from that being the case, he is, as a race, 
unusually gentle, kind, and good natured; but even among the best 
tempered of people quarrels Avill sometimes occur, and then if a kill- 
ing takes place the feud which ensues may cause the death of others 
in the course of several years. 

On or about the 27th of May last another murder occurred near 
Cape Thompson. A native named Anemeah shot and killed his former 
wife because she refused to return and live with him in company with 
his new wife. This murder was not the outcome of a feud, but simply 
the wanton act of a native who has a reputation among the other 
Eskimos as a very bad man, and several natives came to me after the 
shooting to ask if I was not going to kill Anemeah because he was 
such a bad native and had killed his wife, for they knew I came from 
the Bear, and their only idea of authority outside of themselves is 
represented by that vessel. 

As I have said, the Eskimos have no chiefs among themselves; con- 
sequently there is no one among them to whom they owe obedience, 
and the only way by which any one native can gain ascendancy over 
others is by becoming rich as viewed from a native standpoint; that is, 
he must have plenty of furs, deerskins, food, etc. Such a man is called 
by them an "Oomailik," and his very limited authority is obtained 
simply because he is rich and can afford to gather about him other 
natives who live upon his bounty and do his bidding. Consequently 
they think the Bear is sent up to Alaska each year by some big 
white Oomailik, and as she has on board what seems to them very 
big guns, they look upon and recognize her as a power and an author- 
ity. I assured them that, though I did not intend to kill Anemeah 
for his offense, when the Bear came up in the spring Anemeah would 
be taken far away and punished for what he did, and I would have 
endeavored to bring him on board the Bear when she arrived, but he 
was taken ill with some affection of the chest and died July 10. 

It is only fair to the Point Hope tribe of Eskimos to say that, though 
these two killing affairs, of which I have spoken, happened within a 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 25 

period of but seven mouths, none of the parties involved were mem- 
bers of that tribe, and that for several years previous there has not 
been a single killing affair among the Point Hope natives. 

The native village of Tigera is situated on the northern shore of 
the extreme end of the spit of land called Point Hope, and comprises 
in all about two hundred and fifty inhabitants. It is evidently a 
very old village, for the graveyard contains ruins of thousands 
of very old graves, but no idea of the probable age can be obtained 
from the natives, as they have no conception of time at all, and do 
not even know their own ages or their children's after the latter have 
passed the fourth or fifth year. 

Traditions concerning their origin are very hazy and unsatisfac- 
tory, but they have a well-defined one that they originally came from 
Cape Prince of Wales, and if that is true it must have been many 
centuries ago, for, as I have said, their graveyard is exceedingly old; 
and though the natives of Point Hope and Cape Prince of Wales speak 
practically the same language, yet many of the words have different 
endings in the two places, and the accent is softer at Point Hope; 
indeed, the accent becomes still softer and more pleasing as one gets 
farther north, so that the hard " k " sound of the Norton Sound dis- 
trict is changed to the soft " c" sound at Point Barrow. 

There were during the winter of 1S97-98 thii'teen different whaling 
stations strung out at intervals along the shore between Point Hope 
and Cape Seppings, owned and run by white men, and connected with 
these outfits were forty white men — that is, there were forty men who 
were not Eskimos, for in that country every man who is not a native 
is called a "Avhite man," whether he is an American, Japanese, Por- 
tuguese, or negro, and this whaling colony on Point Hope included 
all these nationalities and many others. 

These outfits need, besides the white employees, many natives to 
help man their boats during the whaling season, and as the natives of 
the Point Hope village prefer to hunt the Avhales on their own account, 
each spring large numbers of natures come up the coast from the region 
of Kotzebue Sound, and the jSToatuk and KoAvak rivers to work for the 
stations, in return for Avhich they receiA r e as pay rifles, ammunition, 
tobacco, and the much-prized Avhite man's food — flour and molasses. 
Thus during the spring and the early part of the summer there is a 
large population stretched along this shore, but later in the summer, 
after the whaling season has ended and the ice has left the beach, these 
natives all depart for the rendezvous near Cape Blossom, and the coast 
is deserted again save for the whaling stations and the village of Tigera 
at Point Hope. 

The Noatuk natives had plenty of stories to tell me of gold to be 
found in the small streams tributary to their river, but upon ques- 
tioning them closely I invariably found it was someone else that had 
seen the gold, and they Avere simply telling me what they had heard. 
15396 4 



*2G CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

I also heard two stories of an old man living on the Kowak River 
who had been chased many years ago by a "caligabuk," which is the 
Eskimo name for the mammoth. But very little dependence is to be 
placed in the average Eskimo's stories of strange things, for they are 
very apt to tell 3 r ou what they think you would like to hear, hoping 
to get some present in return for their information, and for this rea- 
son they draw largely xipon their imagination. 

While I was at Point Hope a story came up from the Noatuk natives 
of the birth of a most remarkable child. The mother of the child was 
an unmarried woman, who had a dream prior to the birth, in which 
the Good Spirit had told her to name him "Jesus Christ," and when 
the child was about a year old it could talk, make water burn, and 
was endowed with the power to' tell a bad person from a good one. 
According to the story, if a good person approached this youngster it 
would laugh and crow and hold out its hands in greeting, but if a 
person who was bad came near him, the child would howl and cry and 
call out for the bad person to go away. The imagination of the 
natives in this case was probably stimulated by the attempts of the 
missionaries in Alaska to teach them the Bible, and one native hav- 
ing heard somewhere the story of the Savior's birth had passed his 
version of the story along, which became twisted and distorted bj r 
others in turn until it reached us at Point Hope in the shape I have 
stated above. 

When I arrived at the point in March the landscape was, of course, 
one vast expanse of snow, extending iu all directions, and so continued 
until the summer, when, under the effect of the continual presence of 
the sun above the horizon, the snow rapidly disappeared, and the lat- 
ter part of July there was not a sign of snow to be seen anywhere 
except on the tops of the highest mountains back in the country. 
It was truly remarkable how quickly .a bank of snow would disap- 
pear under the influence of the ever-present sun, and on the tundra, 
flowers quickly began to bloom, even while other parts of the ground 
were not entirely devoid of snow. 

When the Bear arrived in July it was difficult to imagine I was 125 
miles north of the arctic circle, for the open sea showed not a sign of 
ever having had ice on its surface, the land was covered with many 
varieties of short-stemmed and brilliantly colored flowers, and the 
temperature, which had been as low as — ±5 during the winter, was 
such that one could wander about in shirt sleeves and not feel uncom- 
fortable. And yet in spite of the fact that we could walk around 
lightly clad and gather quantities of flowers, with no ice or snow to be 
seen, if one were to dig below the surface of the ground in the neigh- 
borhood of Point Hope from above the Kookpuk River to about half 
way to Cape Thompson, solid glacial ice would be found at a depth 
vai-ying from 2, to 7 or 8 feet. How far down this ice extends is not 



CKUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 27 

known, but under Mr. Nelson's storehouse an ice house has been 
chopped out to a depth of 15 feet, and the ice is still clear and solid. 

The range of mountains which extends from Cape Lisburne south 
to Cape Thompson and thence along the coast, comes down to the sea 
in abrupt bluffs at both these capes, but is broken about half way 
between them where the Kookpuk River comes through to empty into 
the inlet just north of Point Hope. The sides of the mountains over- 
looking this river show unmistakable signs of corrosion by the lateral 
moraines of a glacier, and it is more than likely that the land making 
out from these mountains in a sort of peninsula and terminating in 
Point Hope, Avas formed by the soil deposits on an extinct glacier, 
which during the glacial period of that region came down through the 
valley now forming the bed of the Kookpuk River. 

In conclusion I will state that the account of Liebes & Co.'s whaling- 
station at this place for services and supplies furnished the overland 
expedition is not ready to be siibmitted at present, but Mr. Nelson 
informs me he will have the same ready upon the return of the Bear 
from Point Barrow. 

Very respectfully, E. P. Bertholf, 

Second Lieutenant, R. C. S. 

Capt. Francis Tuttle, R. C. S., 

Commanding U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear. 



REPORT OF FIRST LIEUT. I). H. JARVIS. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 

Point Barrow, Alaska, July 10, 1898. 

Sir: An expedition, consisting of Capt. A. C. Sherman, F. Hopson, 
James Clark, W. J. Drynen, Anton Roderique, Oscar Thompson, Peter 
Nelson, Ivan Elt, and two natives, will leave here to-morrow to pro- 
ceed south along the coast to meet your command. The situation 
here ha£ not materially changed since my last report, with the excep- 
tion of the loss of the schooner Rosario on the 2d instant, having been 
crushed by the ice. Her crew, provisions, and outfits were all saved, 
and the vessel is now being stripped. My last information from the 
steamer Jeannie was of the date of June 1, from the steamers Neio- 
port and Fearless of Jnne 19, at which dates they were all right. 
They have provisioned until about August 15. 

At this place we have provisions to last, under the present ration, 
until August 20. Should the necessity be apparent, the provisions 
will be extended to last the full month of August. The steamer 
Belvedere, at Sea Horse Islands, has flour until August 1, and we 
have reserved enough here for her use until August 15. I am sup- 
plying her with meat as she needs it. Up to this date, I have killed 
for food 159 reindeer, and expect to have to kill more before your 
arrival. 

Until the present there has been practically no change in the ice, 
and during the past ten days the wind has been very unfavorable for 
any opening. Should this continue, I will begin, not later than August 
1, to move some of the men south along the coast, to go as far as Icy 
Cape, if necessary, to meet the ships. 

I would suggest that you send flour to the Belvedere as soou as pos- 
sible, which might relieve us here of the necessity of sending the 500 
pounds we have reserved for her use. We are badty in need of clothes 
and soap, but can make out until your arrival. ■ Since my last report 
there has been one death — Phillip Mann, seaman, of the Jesse H. Free- 
man — of heart disease. At present the health of the people is good. 
There seems now no danger of any distress, but we will be in urgent 
need should the ships not arrive by August 1. I inclose for your 
information a list of the wrecked men now under my care. Those 
28 




2 3 t 

OFFICERS COMPOSING OVERLAND EXPEDITION. 

1. 1st Lieut D. H. Jarvis, comdg. 2. 2d Lieut. E. P. Bertholf. 

3. Surgeon S. J. Call. 










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CRUISE OF TBE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 29 

belonging to the Belvedere are being eared for here because of the 
great difficulty in getting provisions to the vessel. 
Respectfully, yours, 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 

Capt, F. Tuttle, R. C. S., 

Commanding U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear. 



IT. S. Revenue Steamer Bear, 

September 1, 189S. 

Sir: The overland relief expedition, together with its provisions 
and outfits, was landed about 3 miles from the "village of Tununak, 
near Cape Vancouver, Nelson Island. The beach at that place, at the 
base of a range of mountains, was narrow and strewn with a great 
number of rocks and bowlders, and as the snow was quite deep and 
soft it would have been difficult to pack our outfit over this road 
to the village. The shore was free from ice, however, and a half- 
bi'eed Russian trader, with several natives, having come from the vil- 
lage in their kyaks to meet us, I engaged them to transport the outfit 
to the village hy water. This they did by lashing their kyaks 
together in pairs, like catamarans, and they were able to take the 
entire load in one trip, while we followed along the beach on foot, 
reaching the village just before dark. The village was formerly the 
site of a Catholic mission, but that had been abandoned, and at 
that time the population consisted of the trader, Alexis Kalenin, 
his wife and family, together with some thirty natives. They all 
lived in native huts, with the exception of Alexis, who occupied a 
well-constructed log house and store. Having reached the village, 
we were taken into Alexis's house with that open-hearted hospitality 
which is universal among the natives of Alaska. The kyaks arriving 
a little later, the natives carried everything up to the store, when 
we discovered that some of the flour and hard bread had been wet 
by the sea and was unfit for use. Now that the expedition had at 
last gotten ashore, it was important tu get started on the journey, and 
I immediately set to work bargaining for means of travel. It was 
fortunate that the Bear was able to make a landing at Tununak, for, 
though the influx of miners into Alaska had made dogs scarce along 
the Yukon, Alexis's village Avas out of the line of travel, and his 
dogs had not yet been bought up. He agreed to let us have as many 
as we needed, furnish natives to accompany the expedition, and go 
along himself as a guide across the Yukon Delta country. I learned 
that St. Michael could be reached in about twelve days, if the 



30 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

weather held good and the sleds were not heavily loaded ; but, as two 
of Alexis's teams had just returned from an eight days' trip to the 
Kuskokwim River, he insisted it was necessary for them to rest a day 
before setting out on another journey. Realizing that it was of the 
utmost importance to get the deer herds at Cape Prince of AVales 
moving north as soon as possible, I was loath to lose even one day; 
but nothing was to be gained bj r starting improperly prepared, and it 
was decided to postpone our departure until the morning of the 18th. 

When the boats returned to the Bear, after landing us on the 16th, 
she hove up anchor and steamed offshore, and we thought she had 
departed; but on the morning of the 17th she was still seen in the 
offing, and, from noises we heard during the night, it was concluded 
she had landed the sleds and dogs that had been obtained in Unalaska, 
so Alexis and Koltchoff were sent down to the landing place to inves- 
tigate. They returned soon after, bringing svith them two sleds, seven 
dogs, some dried fish for dog feed, and some other articles that had 
not come ashore the previous day. The remainder of the 17th was 
spent in overhauling our clothes, provisions, and outfit, and setting- 
aside enough food to last until we could reach St. Michael. I con- 
cluded that for quick traveling, a load of from 200 to 300 pounds was 
enough for each sled, and the arrangements were made with this in 
view. 

It was learned from Alexis that there were native villages scattered 
along through the country to the Yukon, and at such convenient dis- 
tances that one could be reached each night, and it would not be 
necessary to carry a large amount of dog food, as sufficient could be 
obtained as these villages were reached. The sleds made in Seattle 
were heavy and cumbersome, while those of Alexis were light and 
strong, and thoroughly adapted to the needs of the countiy. It was 
finally decided to take three of the latter's sleds, and one of those 
brought from the ship, assigning to each member of the expedition 
the sled upon which were packed his personal outfit and sleeping 
bag, together with such portion of the general provisions and camp 
gear as would make an equal division of the load to be carried. Such 
of the outfits brought from the ship as were not absolutely needed 
were discarded, for speed being the thing most desired, whatever 
interfered with this was cast aside. All arrangements being made, 
the sleds Avere packed on the night of the 17th for an early start the 
next morning. 

List of provisions and outfits taken from Tununak. 

Pounds. 

Tents and poles - . - - . 30 

Stove and pipe ... 21 

Oil stove 15 

Oil 50 

Cooking gear and grub box 40 

Two axes .._ 10 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 31 

Pounds. 

Two rifles .. . -... .- - 14 

One shotgun .-. — 8 

■100 rounds rifle ammunition ...... 50 

100 rounds shotgun ammunition . . . 25 

Four clothes bags (personal outfit) .. 140 

Four sleeping bags . 200 

Two bags of mail for St. Michael and Point Barrow 75 

Bale of trade tobacco 50 

Sleeping gear and outfit for natives 125 

One ham 12 

Beans 30 

Pork 50 

Bacon . ... .. 24 

Hard bread _ _ 40 

Tea 12 

Flour 50 

One dozen canned meats.. 48 

Compressed barley soup and condensed coffee _ 25 

Dog fish . 150 

Total 1,294 

The camp gear consisted of a wall tent of light ticking, that had 
been made on board ship, 8 by 10 by 6 feet high, the Avails being 3 
feet; and a sheet-iron stove, 20 by 12 by 10 inches deep, with the pipe 
fitted in lengths that telescoped one into another, and short enough to 
go inside the stove when not in use. We also took the small oil stove 
aud a supply of oil, to be used in case we should find Avood scarce. 
This oil stove, not being especially constructed for such an expedi- 
tion, Avas found of little use, for it had no protection from the sur- 
rounding atmosphere, and much of the heat from the burners was 
thus lost. It consumed a great deal of oil, and as that article was 
bulky, heavy, and incom T enient to carry on the sled, the stoA r e was 
finally discarded. Our cooking utensils were two frying pans, two 
camp kettles, two teapots, and a large knife and spoon. In addition 
each member of the party had a knife, fork, spoon, tin plate, and 
cup, together with a large hunting knife. All these small articles 
were carried in a light wooden box of a convenient size to pack snugly 
on the sled. The beans, pork, and ham were boiled before leaving 
the ship, so as to occupy as little time as possible in preparing our 
meals, and in case we were preA T ented from having a fire at any time 
there would be something to eat that Avould not need cooking. Across 
the delta country there is very little brush and no trees or timber, 
but as we camped at villages on the way we were able to obtain enough 
driftwood or brush from the natives to make sufficient fire for the 
little cooking necessary. 

Before daylight on the morning of the 18th Ave were off, with 1 sleds 
and 41 dogs, 9 being harnessed to each of the sleds belonging to 
Alexis and 11 to the heavy one from the ship. These sleds were from 



32 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

9 to 10 feet long, 22 inches wide, with the runners 12 inches deep and 
the sides about 18 inches high. The sled is an open framework of 
hickory or oak, no more wood being used than is absolutely necessary, 
and all the parts are lashed together with strips of seal skin or walrus 
hide, few or no nails being used; so, while the sled is very strong, it is 
also flexible and able to withstand the constant rough usage to which 
it is subjected in traveliug. The sled cover, of light drilling, is made 
large enough to spread over the whole length of the sled on the bot- 
tom. The articles to be carried are then snugly packed and the sides 
of the cover hauled up and lapped over on top so all articles are 
entirely covered, and the whole load is securely lashed to the sides of 
the sled with strips of hide or rope. The sled is now ready for trav- 
eling, the lashing preventing the load from jolting or spilling out 
during the frequent capsizings on rough trails, and the cover protect- 
ing the articles from the falling and driving snow. 

The harness is made of strips of heavy ticking, canvas, sennit, or 
seal hide about 2 inches wide, and is all in one piece for each dog. A 
strip goes around the dog's neck and crosses in front of the chest, 
where the two parts are fastened together to form a collar. The ends 
then go underneath between the forelegs and lead up, one on each 
side, to the dog's back. Another strip is fastened to the top of the 
collar at the back of the neck and leads along the back to meet the 
other two ends, and here all three pieces are secured together and 
made fast to a small piece of rope about 2 feet long. In harnessing a 
dog, the collar is put on over his head, each of his forefeet put through 
one of the loops formed by the ends coming together, aud he is ready 
to be made fast to the sled. A larger rope, the length of which 
depends upon the number of dogs used, is made fast to the front of 
the sled, and to this is secured the small rope of the dog's harness; 
the dogs being harnessed in pairs, one on each side of the central rope, 
and yoked in close to this by short lines to their collars. A team gen- 
erally consists of an odd number of dogs, the odd one being harnessed 
to the central line ahead of the others and acts as a leader. This 
method is used by all the white people in the Lower Yukon, and is 
generally superior to the native mode of stringing the dogs out in 
one long line. 

The next village on our route after leaving Tununak was Ukoga- 
mute, on the northern shore of Nelson Island, opposite the mainland, 
and it was usual in going there to travel over the ice, following the 
coast line to avoid crossing a range of mountains extending along the 
shore between the two villages. The southeast wind which prevailed 
for several days had, however, driven the ice over to the westward 
and cleared the entire western and northern shores of the island, so 
we were compelled to cross this range, and the snow beiug soft, the 
first day's journey was particularly hard for both men and dogs. 
"When the start was made there were, besides the four members of 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 33 

the expedition, Alexis, who acted as guide, and four Eskimos, who 
were to help with the sleds and go ahead to break a trail, for where 
there is no beaten trail or road it is the custom for one man to go ahead 
and pick out the road. The team with the best leader comes first, 
and he faithfully follows the footprints of the man in the lead, and 
the other teams follow the first one. In traveling over a compara- 
tively level county, with a good road and light loads on the sleds, the 
dogs will maintain a trot, which is faster than a man can walk, but 
not as fast as he can run, so the trail maker runs ahead for some dis- 
tance and then slows down to a walk until the head team comes up 
with him, when he repeats the operation. By this alternate running 
and walking a man can keep ahead of the dogs for a considerable 
time without excessive fatigue. Many of the natives who travel a 
great deal in the winter can keep up this mode of travel all day and 
show little sign of exhaustion when camp is made at night. 

When we started from Tununak, Alexis Avent ahead to pick out a 
road. The snow Avas deep, and he was compelled to use snowshoes. 
For some time he led us up a gentle incline and fair progress was 
made, but Ave soon came to the leal ascent of the mountain, and then 
our progress was very sIoav, many places were so steep that it required 
three or four of us to help each sled up. The summit Avas reached at 
last, and as Ave Avere all rather fatigued with the unusual exertion of 
pushing behind dog teams, Ave were glad to be able to sit on our sleds 
while the dogs trotted down into the A^alley below. Here a halt Avas 
made beside a small stream, Avhere Ave could break the ice and obtain 
water to wash down a lunch of hard bread and cold ham. Our moun- 
tain climbing for the day Avas not OA r er, for there was still another 
portion of the range to be crossed, which was even higher and steeper 
than the one Ave had just come over. Refreshed by our rest and 
lunch, Ave started for the second ascent in good spirits. 

In course of time, after much tugging and pushing of sleds, and 
urging of dogs, we reached the summit, Avhere Ave found ourselves in 
the midst of a furious storm of wind and snow, Avhich was so thick 
that it Avas some time before Alexis and the natives could decide 
upon the proper direction, for there Avas some danger of our taking 
the wrong course and going over a precipice into the sea. After 
considerable jabbering they finally came to a decision and prepara- 
tions Ave re made for the descent, which Alexis told us Avas so steep 
that the dogs could not run fast enough to keep ahead of the sleds. 
The dogs Avere turned loose, small chains, brought along for the pur- 
pose, were wound around the runners to impede the rapid descent, 
and Ave proceeded to coast down the side of this mountain, which, 
as near as I could judge, Avas some 2,000 feet high. The snow Avas 
quite deep, but Avith two people seated on each sled this addi- 
tional weight gave us a momentum that nothing short of a solid obsta- 
cle could stop, and Ave flew along at such a rate that in about ten 



34 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAK. 

minutes we reached, the gentle slope at the base of the mountain and 
the sleds came to a stop. Here we waited for the dogs, for the little 
fellows had to come down on foot and were far behind. They soon 
hove in sight, floundering along through the deep snow and following 
the trail of the sleds. Alexis now showed us some dark spots on the 
snow, several miles distant, which he said was the village at which 
we were to stop for the night. 

As soon as the dogs came up they were harnessed again, and we 
proceeded down the gradual slope to the beach, along which the 
guides led us until about dark, when we reached Ukogamute, a native 
village, consisting of seven small huts and one large one. The small 
huts, called "igloos," are occupied by one or more families, often 
being very crowded. The large hut was the "kazheem," used for 
the dance house, council house, general workhouse, and place of 
lodging for travelers; and is occupied bj r all the male inhabitants of 
the village who have no families — that is, the bachelors and wid- 
owers — no women being admitted to the kazheem except during a 
dance or to bring food to the men. All the huts are built after the 
same fashion, all the men, women, and children old enough to work 
aiding in the construction of each. 

In the summer, when the iipper portion of the ground has thawed, 
a hole in the form of a square is scooped out to a depth of three or 
four feet. The sides of the hut are then formed with sticks of drift- 
wood gathered in the rivers and on the coast and filled in with brush, 
the height of the sides depending upon the size of the hut. The roof 
is made in a very ingenious manner. Logs of driftwood are laid 
along the top of the sides and lashed there with hide rope; two logs, 
notched on the ends to fit securely and close, are then laid across these 
on opposite sides, but a little farther in toward the center. Two more 
logs are then placed across these on the other two sides and still 
farther in toward the center; then two more across these, and so on 
until a sort of arch is formed, which is then covered and filled in with 
brush and dirt, leaving a hole in the center of the roof about two or 
three feet square, according to the size of the hut. In the large 
kazheem the center of the roof is often 10 to 12 feet above the floor. 
Other pieces of driftwood, split into rough slabs, are laid inside to 
form the floor, leaving a space about two feet square near the south 
side of the hut. From this hole in the floor a passage has been 
scooped out large enough for a man to crawl through. This leads to 
the surface of the ground, opening into a small entrance built against 
the south side of the hut, and this in turn leads to the open air. 
The whole structure is covered with dirt, but is not used for a habita- 
tion until the winter, when the ground has frozen and the snow has 
covered everything, allowing no wind to get in except through the 
openings. Over the opening leading into the small entrance is hung 
a heavy piece of skin to keep out as much air as possible, and the 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 35 

opening in tlie roof is covered with pieces of dried intestines of the 
seal or walrus sewed together. This not only keeps the warm air 
inside from escaping, hut, being thin and translucent, admits light 
during the day. 

In a hut of this sort filled with people, the animal heat from their 
bodies, together with that from the seal-oil lamps, soon raises the 
temperature so the natives sit around with the upper part of their 
bodies entirely uncovered. Fires are not used in the huts, and, as a 
rule, all the cooking is done in the outside entrance. The farther 
north we went the cleaner the houses were; whether this was due to 
our being earlier in the southern part of the country, before the cold 
weather set in and everything was frozen up so it could be kept clean, 
or to a better general character of the natives, it is difficult to state; at 
anj 7 rate, the houses farther north generally were cleaner, and we 
often saw houses there where the floors were washed each morning. 
The only provision for ventilation was a small hole through the roof, 
about 2 or 3 inches in diameter, and at night, in cold weather, this 
was invariably stopped up. The condition of the air can better be 
imagined than experienced, when fifteen or twenty natives are sleeping- 
inside the small room and a seal-oil lamp or two burn continuously. 

The wind being from the south, the thermometer registered 30° 
above zero, and the weather was quite warm. The deep snow, together 
with our not being accustomed to the unusual traveling, made the day's 
trip very tiresome, and we were all wet and pretty well played out by 
the time we reached the village. We were urged to spend the night 
in the ka-zheem, but it was found to be too crowded and filthy, and 
we decided to pitch the tent. 

Our arrival seemed to create some commotion, and though Ave noticed 
quite a large population at first, all the women and children ran into 
their huts on our nearer approach. Alexis informed us, that, Avith 
the exception of one or two of the Jestrit missionaries, we were the 
first AA-hite travelers who had gone through this part of the country 
for many j T ears; and, as it had been the practice of the traders in the 
old days to steal the Avomen during their visits to a Adllage, these 
Avomen Avere taking the precaution of getting out of sight lest we should 
do the same thing. As soon as the tent Avas pitched, the camp gear, 
sleeping bags, and sufficient food for the evening and morning meals 
Avere taken inside, the dogs unharnessed, and the sleds placed on the 
racks, of Avhich there are generally seA^eral in each village. These 
racks are skeleton platforms of avooc! built on posts stuck in the ground 
and high enough to preA^ent the dogs from reaching anything on top. 
All articles not taken into the tent or the huts must be put up on the 
racks, for the dogs are so raA r enous they Avill eat eA r erything not made 
of wood or metal. When obliged to camp Avhere there is no village, 
eA r erything eatable must be unloaded and earned into the tent, and 
that tightly closed, or there Avill be little left in the morning. 



36 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAK 

After the evening meal of warmed-over pork and beans, tea, and 
hard bread had been prepared and eaten, the dogs were fed and the 
day's work was over. Feeding the dogs was always a trying and inter- 
esting task. They are always hungry, and upon appearing among 
them with an armful of dried fish, in their eagerness to get a stray 
mouthful, they crowd around in oue fighting, jumping mass, and 
make it difficult for one to even keep his balance. After throwing 
out a fish to each dog, it takes all hands with clubs to keep off the 
larger fellows and see that the smaller and weaker ones are allowed 
to keep and eat their share. Usually they are peaceful enough, but 
when being fed they are like wild animals, and snarl and bite each 
other, and keep up a continual fight until everything is eaten. When 
the meal is finished and there is nothing more to eat in sight, they 
will lie down quietly in the snow and go to sleep. They are tough 
and need no protection. During the coldest weather and the most 
violent blizzards, they will curl up on the snow anywhere and sleep, 
and when the snow has drifted over them, get up, shake themselves, 
and be down again in the same place for another sleep. 

Sunday, Decembei- 19. — The wind was light from the northeast, and 
the thermometer 25° above zero. We arose early, broke canip, packed 
the sleds, and were on the road by half past 7. Though the next vil- 
lage lay in a northeast direction, we were obliged to travel several 
miles southeast, along the banks of the river separating Nelson Island 
from the mainland, before we found the ice of sufficient thickness to 
cross with the sleds. From here we took a general northeast course, 
following, and sometimes crossing, innumerable small streams and 
lakes, but, although we passed over a level countiy, we did not make 
good time, as the crust on the snow was thin, and the dogs and sleds 
were continually breaking through. At noon we came across a few 
sticks of driftwood on the banks of a frozen stream and stopped to 
make tea, have something to eat, and allow the dogs a short rest, after 
which we went on, reaching the native village of Ki-yi-lieug a mute 
about dark, half past 4. Here we found wood so scarce that we were 
obliged to trade with the people for some pieces from an old and unused 
hut which had been recently torn down. 

When we started from Tununak, two of our teams were made up of 
very young dogs that could not be expected to stand the strain of 
travel for any length of time, and Alexis had expected to be able to 
replace these teams with fresh dogs from this village; but after sup- 
per he returned to the tent from a visit to the native huts, and 
announced the unwelcome news that all the dogs belonging here were 
absent on a trip to a neighboring village for fish, and it would be two 
days before they could be placed at our disposal. Not wishing to lose 
any time in reaching the deer herd at Cape Prince of Wales, I decided 
to take the two good teams and go on ahead to St. Michael with Dr. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 37 

Call and two of the native guides, leaving Lieutenant Bertholf and 
Koltchoff to follow as soon as the village dogs returned. There was 
the more reason for this, as native promises can not always be relied 
upon, aud the dogs might not return for some days. There was also 
the chance of the weather turning bad, rendering travel impossible, 
and now that the weather was favorable, I desired to get ahead as far 
as we could while the good spell lasted. 

Monday, December 20. — When Ave arose early in order to complete 
the arrangements for the division of the party, the Aveather Avas fouud 
to be getting colder, the thermometer registering 16° aboA r e zero, and 
the Avind from the northward. Our outfit was separated into two 
parts ; leaving the oil stoA r e with half the proA r isions and cooking gear 
with Lieutenant Bertholf, while the other half, Avith the tent and iron 
stoA T e, was packed on the sleds Dr. Call and myself Avere to take. 
After giving Lieutenant Bertholf Avritten instructions for his guidance 
(see Appendix), I left the A r illage Avith Dr. Call, taking the two good 
teams and two of the natiA^e guides. Our route was over a country 
very much the same as the day before, and led along a network of 
small lakes and rivers which traversed the country in all directions. 
I gathered the impression that in the summer, when the snow and 
ice had melted, this section must be more or less of a swamp. This 
appeared to be the general character of the delta country through 
which we traveled, until the Kashunak RiA^er was reached. The 
banks of the streams were clearly denned, but in the spring, Avhen 
the suoav melts from the land and the ice breaks up in the rivers and 
lakes, the water must overflow the whole country. The A'illages are 
built on the highest knolls to be found, for at such times, they are the 
only places above Avater, and e\ T en they are often flooded. The natiA r es 
are miserably poor; their only food is fish and birds, with occasional 
seals, which they obtain from the coast in the summer. They are 
also poorly clad, their clothing being made of the breasts of birds and 
seal skins, and their boots generally of tanned salmon skin. Farther 
north, all these are made of warm, comfortable deerskin, and there is a 
great difference in the strong, healthy appearance of the people there. 

Although we rarely kept going in the same direction for very long, 
the guide making innumerable tAvists and turns in order to pick out a 
good road, we preserved a general northerly course, which brought us 
late in the afternoon to Akoolukpugamute, situated on the banks of 
the Azoon River, a fe\v miles to the northward of where the Nuguka- 
chuk empties into it, and here we camped for the night. 

Tuesday, December 21. — When we broke camp in the morning, the 
thermometer had fallen to 4° below zero, and as the wind had fresh- 
ened from the northward it made the weather quite sharp. To the 
northward of Akoolukpugamute a short range of mountains extends 
in an east and Avest direction, and I had intended to cross this range 



38 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

in order to take the shortest route toward the Yukon; but the natives 
of the villages warned us, that, as the snow on the mountains was very 
deep, traveling would be slow and difficult, and that it was doubtful if 
we would be able to cross the mountain and reach the village beyond 
in two days, so I decided to make a detour around the western end of 
the range and have the advantage of a level road. 

We traveled during the day in a general northeast direction, and 
soon after leaving the village the trail crossed a medium-sized lake, 
called by the natives Naniwuknuk, the outlet of which is the Azoon 
River. Then we followed for some distance along a winding stream 
known as the Agoocharuk, and then struck across the country until 
we came to a large body of water, called by the natives Lake Agoo, 
upon which we traveled several hours, finally reaching the village 
of ChukwokUilieugamute about dark. This lake appeared to be 
about 12 miles long, and 5 miles wide, having its greatest length in an 
east and west direction, and the village is situated on the eastern 
half of the northern shore. A few miles farther to the eastward is 
the mouth of a good-sized river, called by the natives the ' ' Izawerk- 
nuk," which they declare rises between the Yukon and the Kuskokwim 
rivers, where these two streams come closest together, and has a con- 
nection with the Yukon. The river given on the chart as the Kulich- 
avak answers this same description, except as to the geographical 
position of its mouth, and the lake into which it empties, and it seemed 
to me that Izawerknuk and Kulichavak were but two different names 
for the same stream. The water of Lake Agoo is fresh, while the 
streams that had no connection with the Yukon were said by the 
natives to be salt. 

Wednesday, December- 22. — The wind was still blowing fresh from 
the north, and the thermometer showed 6° below zero in the morning, 
falling to 15° below in the afternoon. We had hardly accustomed our- 
selves to such cold, and our clothing was not well suited for it, so we 
had to be moving quite lively during the day to keep warm. After 
leaving the village the trail led in a general northwest direction, skirt- 
ing the base of the range of mountains arouud which we had come, 
crossed and followed numerous small streams, and finally, late in the 
afternoon, brought us to Lake Koggan, the source of the Manokinok 
River. The shape of this lake is different from that put clown on the 
chart, and appeared to be more like two lakes with the shores com- 
ing close together near the center, forming a narrow passage, and the 
whole extending some 12 or 15 miles in a northwest direction. On 
the eastern shore, near the narrow passage, two isolated hills about 
200 or 300 feet high rise out of the low surrounding country. After 
striking the southern portion of this lake we traveled about two 
hours before coming to the narrow part, when the guides turned to 
the left, following along the shore some distance, and finally, about 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 39 

7 in the evening, reached the village of Kogerchtehmute, which, is 
situated on the southwestern shore of the northern portion of Lake 
Koggan, a few miles from its outlet, the Manokinok River, and here 
we pitched our tent for the night. 

Thursday, December 28. — The mercury still registered 15° below, 
but as there was little or no wind traveling was more comfortable 
than the day before. Leaving Kogerchtehmute about 8 o'clock in 
the morning, we crossed the northern portion of Lake Koggan, and 
taking a general northeast course traveled over the same character 
of country as on the previous days, except that now the brush was 
larger and more plentiful. When we reached the Kashunak River, 
many small trees Avere noticed along the banks, which were somewhat 
higher than the banks of the other streams we had crossed. Follow- 
ing along the frozen surface of this stream for several miles, the 
guide brought us to the small native village of Chukwoktulik, on the 
northern bank of the river, about southwest from Andreafski. 

Friday, December 2J+. — The light Avind had died out into a calm by 
morning, and the thermometer had gone up to zero when Ave broke 
camp. We still preserved the same general direction as on the 23d 
(northeast). The land Avas much higher, the brush got thicker all 
the time, and the timber line Avas struck about 6 or 7 miles from the 
Yukon. We crossed several large lwers, which the guide informed 
us had no connection with the Yukon and floAved into the sea inde- 
pendently, and shortly before that stream was reached we f olloAved a 
small branch of one of the large rivers nearly to its source. 

Reaching the Yukon opposite the site of the old deserted Russian 
Anllage of Andreafski, Ave crossed over, and followed along the north- 
ern shore for about 8 miles, and finally drew up at the new village. 
This is one of the trading posts of the Alaska Commercial Company, 
and is situated on the banks of a small branch of the Yukon, 7 miles 
from the main river. Opposite the post is a pocket or slue which 
is so formed that the river ice can not back up into it when the 
spring break-up comes, and on this account has for years been used 
as a place to lay up the river boats during the Avinter season. Last 
fall the ice OA^ertook the steamers at different points on the river 
before they Avere able to reach their winter rendezvous, and at this 
time there were at the post only the people connected Avith it and a 
feAv of the steamer folks who had come to spend Christmas. 

Before the Bear left Seattle the postmaster had sent on board a 
large sack of mail destined for the Yukon River, Avith the request that 
it be delivered at St. Michael in case the expedition reached that 
point; and though its weight, 70 pounds, Avas a great draAvback, it 
Avas brought along. As some of the mail Avas for the people at Andre- 
afski, and taking it through to St. Michael might prevent their get- 
ting it until the river opened for naAdgation in the spring, I assumed 
the responsibility of opening the mail sack and delivering to the 



40 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

proper persons the letters directed to tkem; and on the way down the 
Yukon, I pursued the same course, delivering to the people on the dif- 
ferent steamers whatever letters were addressed to them. The next 
day being Christinas, the temptation to remain over and rest was 
great; but our mission would admit of no unnecessary ■ delay, and 
after replenishing our stock of provisions from the stores at the post 
we started on our way down the river, the thermometer 4° below zero 
and the wind fresh from the northwest. 

Soon after leaving the wind increased, and about noon, when we 
reached a bend in the river that brought our course directly in the 
teeth of the gale, the dogs were unable to face it and we were com- 
pelled to camp and wait for better weather. 

Sunday, December 26. — The wind having gone down enough to 
make traveling possible, Ave resumed our journey, the thermometer 
6° below. We followed the course of the Yukon, keeping close to the 
northern bank, and as the ice was hard and level, made excellent 
progress, meeting and passing several parties of miners going up and 
down the river, and in the afternoon reached a small log hut that had 
been put up for the convenience of passing travelers, and camped for 
the night. 

Monday, December 27. — This was an ideal day for traveling, the 
thermometer being 15° below, Avith little or no wind, and the road 
generally hard and smooth. In the fall, Avhen there are southerly and 
southwest gales in the Bering Sea, the water rises and oA r erfiows the ice 
along the banks of the loAver river, and, as it quickly freezes in the Ioav 
temperature, one often strikes a trail of smooth, clear ice for miles. 
At such times everybody would jump on the sleds and the dogs bowl 
along at a gallop and keep it up as long as such clear ice lasted. Some- 
times Avhen the water had overfloAvn the ice it Avould again fall before 
the ice on top Avas more than an inch thick, leaving this thin layer a 
foot or so above the old solid ice of the river. There is nothing to dis- 
tinguish this thin shell from the more solid of the new ice, and often 
when the dogs Avere speeding along over the smooth surface the sled 
would strike one of these places and suddenly, with no warning, the 
whole outfit, dogs, sleds, and men, Avould go through and bring up on 
the solid ice below. Then Ave Avould haA'e to go ahead and break 
through the shell so the dogs could folloAv until the firm ice was 
reached again. 

After a long day's journey Ave came to a small slough of the river 
where three steamers, having on board a large number of miners 
bound to the gold diggings in the Upper Yukon, had been frozen in 
late in the fall. Some of the men Avere living on board, Avhile others 
occupied log huts they had built on the banks of the river. By this 
time some of our dogs Avere in rather bad shape. The thiu crust on 
the snow coming across the delta country and the hard ice on the 
river had lacerated the cushions of their feet, and many of them left 



CRUISE OF THE U S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 41 

a trail of blood behind them with eveiy step. Besides this, the two 
natives who had accompanied ns thus far had developed heavy colds, 
which settled on their chests, rendered them of little use in traveling. 
We spent the night on the steamer Alice, of the Alaska Commercial 
Company, and the next day, having obtained a new guide and some 
fresh dogs, resumed our journey, leaving behind the worst of our 
old dogs and the two sick natives, the purser of the steamer having 
kindly agreed to care for them until they were able to return to their 
village. 

The thermometer was still 15° below, but the wind had freshened 
from the northward, and it was bitterly cold when we were obliged to 
face it. Following the course of the river as usual, late in the even- 
ing we came to a log house occupied by a trader and his family, built 
upon the site of the old and deserted village of Kotlik, on the Aproon 
mouth of the Yukon, and but a short distance from the seacoast. We 
must have made nearly 50 miles this day, for the ice was good and 
smooth, and our fresh native runners spurred the tired dogs up to a 
fast rate. 

Wednesday, December 29. — The weather was clear and the mercury 
had risen to zero when we left Kotlik and started down the last part 
of the river. We soon came to the coast and then struck across the 
ice to Cape Romanoff, reaching there about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. 
The cape seemed to us about 10 or 12 miles farther to the north than 
shown on the chart, for at our rate of travel we must have made 30 
miles before reaching it, while the chart shows barely 20. Offshore 
we could see the open water, and Ave were compelled "to pick our way 
very carefully over the ice crush ai-ound this bold headland before we 
could strike across the tundra for Pikmiktallik, a native village near 
the mouth of a small river bearing the same name, and about 9 miles 
farther on. A thick and violent snowstorm came up soon after leaving 
Romanoff, and so blinded the guide that he lost the way frequently/, and 
it was long after dark before Ave came to the village, where Ave were 
glad to accept the offered shelter of the huts for the rest of the night. 

Thursday, December 30. — The wind had fallen to a calm and the 
mercury having gone up almost to the freezing point, the Aveather 
seemed very warm and traveling Avas very disagreeable. Even the 
dogs were affected by the rise in temperature, and, though we made 
an early start from Pikmiktallik, and the distance to St. Michael was 
but 25 miles, t\\ej went so sloAvly that Ave did not reach the latter 
place until the middle of the afternoon. 

We had now completed the first stage of our journey, and our expe- 
rience with dogs had shown us Ave could expect, with good roads and 
fair weather, to aA'erage from 20 to 25 miles a daj r . But this was 
not to be accomplished as usually pictured, sitting back on the sled 
and cracking a whip. In Alaska, at least, it is not that Avay, and 
unless the road is very smooth and the load light, the men of an out- 



42 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

fit must not only walk, but push, aud haul, and sometimes harness 
themselves up to the sleds to get along. At first such -work seems 
killing, but you get used to it like anything else and take it as a 
matter of course. 

Upon arriving I first reported to Lieut. Col. George M. Randall, 
U. S. A., commanding the military post. I detailed to him the 
object and purpose of the expedition, and received a warm wel- 
come and every assistance in his power. A large number of peo- 
ple destined for the Yukon gold fields had been compelled to winter 
here on account of the extremely low water in the river the previous 
summer. To these we were an object of great interest and curiosity, 
but their good intentions of assistance, I am sorry to say, were more 
hindrance than help. 

The mail brought from Seattle was finally delivered, and nothing 
could have been more welcome to this imprisoned and idle crowd. 
The winter thus far was reported very mild, and on that account our 
road to Golovin Bay was in a bad state for travel. The ice had not 
yet formed strong enough to keep a firm hold on the shores, and blew 
out with every easterty wind, and the high winds had driven the snow 
from the tundra, leaving it nearly bare in many places. A trader 
had just come in from Golovin Bay, and had been nineteen days on 
the road. It was necessary that careful and complete preparations 
be made before leaving St. Michael, for, as far as we knew, this was 
the last base of supplies Ave could depend upon for food or transpor- 
tation as far north as Point Hope. The dogs which had brought 
us thus far had made with us a trip of 375 miles, and Avere com- 
pletely worn out. They had been going constantly for twenty-one 
days with only one day's rest, and the hard, rough ice of the Yukon 
River and the crusty snow had worn their feet bare. Nothing short 
of a week's rest and good feeding would put them in condition to 
go on. I was loath to part with them, for they Avere the best dogs 
I saw in Alaska, but I could not Avait for them to recuperate. The 
great influx of Avhite people into the Yukon countiy had made such a 
demand for dogs that it Avas next to impossible to procure any here. 
Only the urgency of our mission induced the agent of the Alaska Com- 
mercial Company to let us have the station team as far as Unalaklik. 
The agent of the North American Trading and Transportation Com- 
pany promised us his station's team from that place on, but first it 
had a load to deliver there for the company. Mr. Englestadt, trader 
for the Alaska Commercial Company at Unalaklik, was at St. Michael 
Avith a loaded team to return to his station, and I engaged from him 
such assistance as he could give us. The reindeer herd from the 
Teller Reindeer Station at Port Clarence Avas supposed to be on its 
wajr from that place to St. Michael to report to Colonel Randall for 
use in relieving the people on the Upper Yukon, and could not be used 
by our expedition. The difficulties of getting along in this region 




I 
o 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 43 

were so great, however, that I obtained from Colonel Randall an 
order to Dr. A. N. Kettleson, superintendent of the reindeer herd, for 
such assistance as he could give the expedition as far as Cape Prince 
of Wales, where we would have our own reindeer and be independent. 
The services of F. Koltchoff were of no further use to the expedition, 
and orders were left for Lieutenant Bertholf, directing Koltchoff to 
report to Lieutenant-Colonel Randall for duty with the reindeer herd 
upon its arrival at Unalaklik, as directed by Department order of 
November 15, 1807. 

It was necessary here to refit ourselves with deerskin clothing. The 
dogskin and woolen clothing we brought from the vessel was heavy and 
cumbersome and not suited to the cold Aveather we were to encounter. 
The sleeping bags we had were made of goatskin, with canvas and 
rubber covers, and Avere too heaA T y to haul and too cold for com- 
fort or safety. Fortunately, we had been favored thus far Avith mild 
weather, but every day's use of such clothing was dangerous. Deer- 
skin clothing, boots, socks, and sleeping bags, Avere an absolute neces- 
sity. These were rare and commanded extraA r agant prices, and Ave 
were fortunate in being able to supply ourselves from Mr. Englestadt, 
who had about the only deerskins in this part of the country. Another 
point to be considered here, was to supply our party with proA'isions 
to last from here to Cape Prince of Wales and as far as Point Barrow. 
It was impossible to load the sleds with more than two or three hun- 
dred pounds and traA^el with the speed Ave should. Mr. Lopp, at Cape 
Prince of Wales, could haA*e but a limited supply, probably only 
enough for himself and family. A large party was necessary to care 
for and drive the deer herd, and eA r en in the time we hoped to reach 
Point Barrow, the}" would, for tAvo months, be wholly dependent upon 
themselves. With accidents or delays, they might be until summer. 

To make the party wholly independent of all villages to the north, 
and capable of sustaining itself, AvhateA'er rotite it was compelled to 
take, I ordered a supply of provisions to be taken across the divide 
from the head of Norton Bay to Kotzebue Sound to meet us at Cape 
Blossom on our arrival there, depending upon Port Clarence and Cape 
Prince of Wales for enough to take us that far. This provision train 
could be fitted out at Unalaklik, and I directed Lieutenant Bertholf 
to come to that place on his arrival. If he made the connections Ave 
planned he was not due at St. Michael until January 1, but it was 
most important that I should get to Cape Prince of Wales as soon as 
possible, and I did not dare Avait nor delay for him. Leaving orders 
for him to come on to Unalaklik when he arrived, and there meet 
Mr. Englestadt, with whom I made arrangements to fit out the pro- 
vision train, we proceeded on January 1, 1898. Striking across the 
bay to the mainland, we were soon compelled to take to the tundra, 
as the easterly winds had blown the ice away from the shores of the 
sound and left open Avater. 



44 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

The weather continued very warm, and our road was trying and 
difficult. The wind had cleaned the snow from the plains, and made 
progress one continual, hard, grinding pull, and we were fortunate to 
reach the village of Kikiktaruk at dark, though only 18 miles distant 
from St. Michael. The next day was no better, and, though we had 
hoped to be at TJnalaklik in two days, it was soon evident that we 
must be satisfied with what progress we could make under the condi- 
tions. We shoved and pushed over bowlders and almost bare, grassy 
mounds, and up and down steep gullies and cliffs, and when darkness 
overtook us, 15 miles was all we had accomplished. On the 3d, com- 
ing down on the ice which held in some of the small bays, we observed 
a native woman on snowshoes going south. Upon coming up with 
her, I recognized her as a native whom I had known at Poiut Hope in 
the Arctic, and, upon questioning her as to why she was in this 
region, I learned that she and her husband were with a white man 
named Tilton, coming from Point Barrow with mail and seeking 
assistance for the people there. Tilton was ahead with the sleds and 
had gone close under the bluff, so that we had passed within a few 
hundred feet without knowing of one another's presence. We soon 
brought. Mr. Tilton to, and found he was the third mate of the steam 
whaler Belvedere. He had left Point Barrow October 17, and his 
ship, which was frozen in at the Sea Horse Islands, on the 21st. He 
had had a hard, long journey, and both he and his teams were all but 
played out. It was fortunate he was now in reach of people and 
supplies. 

What official mail he brought I opened for any information it might 
contain that would help me to understand the condition of things at 
Point Barrow, and enable me to prepare for it. From all I could 
gather from the mail and from Mr. Tilton himself, I learned that the 
steamers Orca, Jesse H. Freeman, and Belvedere had gotten past 
Point Barrow and down the coast as far as the Sea Horse Islands. At 
this point September 22, the ice closing in, the Orca was crushed and 
the Freeman caught and abandoned, both crews going on board the 
Belvedere, which was worked in behind Point Franklin and put into 
winter quarters there. The crews of the two wrecked vessels were 
sent to Point Barrow and quartered at that place. The Rosario was 
close to Point Barrow on the west side; the Newport, Fearless, and 
Jeanie along the shore at various distances east of Point Barrow and 
within reach of that place. 

The Wanderer had last been seen 60 miles west of Herschel Island, 
early in September. Nothing had been heard from her as late as 
October 17, and it was supposed that she was within communication 
of Herschel Island, where the steamer Mary D. Hume was wintering 
with two years' supplies on board. 

The wreck of the steamer Navarch was drifting about in the ice 
east of Point Barrow, and Mr. Tilton thought that 7 of the 9 men who 
remained on her last summer had been gotten out safely. 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 45 

I had anticipated meeting in this region some one from Point Bar- 
row, and almost my first question on arriving at St. Michael was 
whether or not they had heard from the imprisoned vessels. The 
information Tilton brought hardly altered the situation at Point Bar- 
row, as it was understood before the Bear sailed, except that the loss 
of the Orca and Freeman with their provisions made it worse. 

At Unalaklik the last arrangements were made about the provisions 
to go to Kotzebue Sound, and orders were left for Lieutenant Bert- 
holf to take charge of the train, and go across what is known as the 
portage to Cape Blossom and wait my arrival or the arrival of the 
reindeer herd from Cape Prince of Wales. I was disappointed in 
getting the teams Mr. Englestadt had pixnnised, for one was all he 
could give us, and though I had agreed to take the Alaska Commer- 
cial Company's team no farther, I was obliged to keep it and also the 
North American Trading and Transportation Company's team, as 
there was nothing else to do if we Avei'e to get along. 

We secured here another tent and stove (having left the others 
for Lieutenant Bertholf), proper deerskin sleeping bags, and deer- 
skin socks, boots, and mittens. We were now fairly well equipped 
to stand the cold weather, though even yet our outfit was not what it 
should have been. We left Unalaklik on the 5th with three light 
sleds, and the first day took us over the hills and mountains back of 
the coast, for there was still no ice along the shores. This part of 
the country was timbered, and as we passed along the old trail of the 
telegraph expedition of 1865 Ave saw several of the poles they erected 
then still standing. The timber was only a scattered growth, and 
consisted mainly of spruce and scrubby pine. It Avas thickest and 
largest along the water courses and in the valleys, and extended but 
a short distance up the sides of the mountains. 

Except for soft snow and climbing the mountains the trail was fair. 
We passed the native village of Egawik in the afternoon, and late at 
night camped in a deep gully on the shore, about 15 miles farther on, 
where Ave hoped to pass the base of the last big mountain rather than 
climb OA-er it. At night the tide Avas too high, but the next morning 
it Avas low, and after a hard pull of several miles along the rocky 
beach Ave reached the leA^el land beyond. Here was good traveling, 
and Ave made a long day's run to Unoktolik, on the shores of Norton 
Bay. Crossing the bay the next day the ice AA r as firm and smooth 
and good progress Avas made until nearing the north shore, Avhere 
rough ice and deep siioav began. The wind had not only crushed up 
the ice, but had driven the snoAv all OA^er to that side of the bay, and 
it was a hard struggle through it to the shore. 

On the 8th, passing the village of Kuik in the morning, Ave Avere 

compelled to traA^el Avith snowshoes, for the snow Avas growing deeper 

all the time, and a heavy storm setting in during the forenoon made 

it more difficult than eA r er to fight our Avay along. The runners 

15390 6 



46 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

would sink to the body of the sled, and the dogs go nearly out of 
sight in their struggles to drag along. It took four men to tramp 
down a trail in order to make any progress at all, and at night, though 
we had hoped to make a small village ahead, we were compelled to 
camp in the woods along the shore, for our dogs were so exhausted 
they simply laid down and refused to go any farther. 

The next day, though clear, found the same deep snow on our road, 
and we continued packing down a trail and dragging the sleds along. 
To get out of the trail meant to be stalled in the drifts, and after a 
long day's struggle we were glad to have made 10 miles. 

On the 10th, though the snow was deep, it improved as we went 
along, and that night we were surprised and pleased to find the camp 
of the Government reindeer herd at the foot of the mountain leading 
over to Golovin Bay. They had started from Port Clarence Decem- 
ber 16, and had been stopped here by the deep snow we had just 
passed over. I delivered to Dr. Kettleson the order from Colonel 
Randall, and made arrangements with him for us to go over to 
Golovin Bay the following day, and arrange for leaving there on the 
12th, when the deer teams would arrive to take us to Cape Prince of 
Wales. 

The weather now grew- cooler, and, except for a few days, the ther- 
mometer remained below zero until near the middle of the following 
May. We went over the mountain and arrived at Golovin Bay on 
the 11th. On the east side of this mountain was a good heavy growth 
of timber, but the west side was entirely bare. At this place were 
the houses of the Swedish mission and a trader named John A. Dexter, 
surrounded by a small village of natives. Here I dismissed the dog 
teams, sending two back to St. Michael and one to Unalaklik, and 
directing them to take back to the latter place some of the people of 
the reindeer camp who were now a burden to the herd. 

Having our clothes repaired and our stock of provisions replenished 
from the store here, we were ready on the 12th to start when the 
deer teams arrived. Wishing to make a visit to Port Clarence, Dr. 
Kettleson came himself, bringing four sleds and two "poulkas" 
(Lapland freight sleds, shaped like a boat), and one of Mr. Lopp's 
herders who was with the Government herd for experience, and whom 
I engaged to go along with us to Point Barrow. Our provisions were 
pact ed on the poulkas, while each man's personal outfit was packed 
on the sled he was to use. I found this an excellent arrangement in 
case one got lost from the rest of the party, as I did later in a blizzard. 

All our travel heretofore had been by dog teams, and, as we were 
to have much deer traveling farther on, I was very anxious to try the 
change and note the difference, wishing for anything that would hurry 
us along. There came with Dr. Kettleson, to manage our train, Mik- 
kel, a Laplander, who was counted a thoroughly experienced and capa- 
ble man, and I found him all that. A stolid, determined character, 




o 
u 
u. 
o 

CO 
Ld 
> 

I- 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 47 

and possessed of a wonderful patience. He took the lead with two 
deer harnessed to his sled, while Ave had but one. All hands must be 
ready at the same time when starting a deer train, for, just as soon as 
the animals see the head team start, they are all off with a jump, and 
for a short time keep up a very high rate of speed. If one is not 
quick in jumping and holding on to his sled, he is likely either to lose 
his team or be dragged along in the snow. They soon come down to 
a moderate gait, however, and finally drop into a walk when tired. 
They are harnessed with a well-fitting collar of two flat pieces of wood 
from which a short trace goes back on each side to the ends of a 
breast piece, or a swingletree, that fits under the body. From the 
center of this a single trace runs back to the sled, either between or 
to one side of the hind legs. In the wake of the legs this trace is 
protected with some soft fur, or the skin will soon be worn through 
with the constant chafing. Generally there is a single line made 
fast to the left side of a halter, and with this the animal is guided 
and held in check; but this line must be kept slack and only pulled 
on when the deer is to be guided or stopped. By pulling hard on 
this line the weight of the sled comes on the head, and the animal 
is soon brought to a standstill, though often this is only accomplished 
after he has gone aronnd in a circle several times, and you and the 
sled are in a general mix up. Sometimes two guiding lines are used 
in the same manner as driving horses, except that they are both 
made fast to the halter near the horns. No whip is used, and none 
should be, for the deer are very timid and easily frightened, and 
once gotten in that state they are hard to quiet and control. A little 
tugging on the lines will generally start them off, even when they balk. 
The sleds in use are low and wide, with very broad runners. Having 
a very low rail or none at all, it is hard to pack and secure anything 
on them so it will stay and be protected from the snow and the rough 
usage. It struck me that a great improvement in this respect was 
needed if they are to come into general use. 

After many preparations we got off a little after noon. I had learned 
by this time that it is harder to start from a station where you have 
to fit out, than from a camp, and despite all our precautions and prep- 
arations, there seemed to be endless things left undone until the last 
minute, so I almost wished there were no white, people anywhere on 
our road. After starting we had a good smooth trail up Golovin 
Sound ; the deer were fresh and kept up a gallop until we came to the 
mountains back of Stony Cape. This was a steep, hard climb and a 
very precipitate descent, which, however, Avas accomplished without 
much trouble, though going down hill is often a dangerous operation. 
Arriving at the base of these mountains, it was but a short distance 
to the village of Seookuk, where we spent the night. Eskimo dogs 
seem natural enemies to the deer, and as it was dangerous to go close 
to a village on that account, the sleds were halted a short distance 



48 CRUISE OP THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

away, the deer unharnessed and taken by Mikkel several miles away, 
out of the sight and scent of the dogs; there they were tethered by 
toggling them, with long lines to the thick crust of the snow, leaving 
the animals range enough to feed during the night. We now hauled 
the sleds to the village, they were unloaded, and we were glad to get 
the shelter of even a native hut, for the day had been cold and riding 
on a deer sled is much colder work than traveling alongside and push- 
ing behind a clog team. 

In a few of the valleys of Golovin Sound was a sparse growth of 
trees, but, except for a few, visible in the distance in the Ivotzebue 
Sound region, we saw no more trees in all the country we traveled 
from here on to Point Barrow. 

January 13. — It was still very cold and a light wind was blowing 
from the north this morning. Our course lay straight along the north 
shore of Norton Sound, and we tried to keep on the ice where the 
traveling was easier, but the crushes along the shore grew so rough 
that we were compelled to take to the hills that lined the coast. 
Coming down the last one of these, my deer, which, as I afterwards 
learned, once had a leg broken by the sled running ahead on him, 
became frightened and bolted down the hill, throwing me off the 
sled. I held on to the line and was dragged through the snow against 
an old fish rack at the bottom of the hill. When I saw that fish rack 
loom up, I thought my time had come, but my bones seemed stronger 
than the rack, for throwing my head aside, my shoulder caught the 
upright and broke it short off. When I finally stopped the deer and 
pulled myself together, I was grateful to find I had no bones broken, 
for such a thing was too serious a matter even for contemplation. 

The wind had now increased to a gale, and the blinding snow made 
progress slow and difficult. We had planned to reach a village about 
35 miles distant, but night overtook us on the road. It seemed to be 
niy day for accidents, for soon after dark my deer wandered from the 
trail, became entangled in a lot of driftwood on the beach, half covered 
with snow, and finally wound up by running the sled full speed against 
a stuinp, breaking the harness, dragging the line out of my hand, and 
disappearing in the darkness and flying snow. My first impulse was 
to run after him, but soon recovering my wits I concluded to make the 
best of the situation. It was impossible to see 10 j^ards ahead, and I 
knew it would be reckless to start off alone, for the others were far in 
advance by this time, and I might wander about all night, become ex- 
hausted, and perhaps freeze. So righting my sled, I proceeded to camp 
where I was for the night, and await developments. I had nothing to 
eat on the sled, but fortunately had my clothes bag and sleeping bag, 
and getting them out under the lee of the sled, I proceeded to make 
myself as comfortable as possible. I knew the others would be search- 
ing for me as soon as they noticed my absence, yet it seemed impos- 
sible to find anything in that storm. I thought I had been there about 




STARTING FROM GOLOVIN BAY. 




ICE ALONG SHORE. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 49 

an hour, when I heard a faint shout; jumping up, I answered as well 
as I could against the howling wind, and soon was gratified to see 
some muffled figures groping their way toward me in the darkness and 
flying snow. They were Kettleson and Mikkel leading my deer. I 
was glad to see them and know that this little episode was ended, for 
by the next morning, Avith the cold and hunger, I might have been in 
no condition to help myself. 

It seemed that my deer, after breaking away, had picked Tip the 
trail, caught up with the others, and trotted along behind their 
sleds. In the darkness the drivers could not tell whether there Avas a 
sled behind him or not, and only discovered my absence when they 
had occasion to stop and consult with me. Seeing I was gone, they 
took the deer and turned back to find me, following carefully and 
slowly the trail the sleds had made in the snow, all the time keeping 
up a shouting. They had a good laugh at my expense, but I think 
all hands were very glad it was nothing more serious than a laugh, at 
least, I am sure I was. A short distance from where I Avas lost Ave had 
passed an old and abandoned hut high up on the bank, and as it Avas 
now late we decided to camp there. Shoveling out the snow, Ave made 
the best of this hole in the ground for the night. 

January 14. — The blizzard Avas still on when Ave started this morn- 
ing and grew worse as Ave went along. As though to make amends for 
his performance of yesterday, my deer kept up alongside Mikkel's sled, 
and Ave two soon were far ahead of the others, and Avere greatly relieA*ed 
when Ave picked up the Aullage of Opiktillik, at least the deer led us 
there, for it Avas beyond us to find the Avay in the blinding sitoav. It 
Avas now blowing so hard that we could scarcely stand. In an hour 
the others came along. They had been compelled to pick their Avay on 
foot, one of the natiA^es going ahead on his hands and knees. It Avas 
hard to think of losing the day, for we had made onlj- about 5 miles, 
but there Avas no help for it, it Avas impossible to go on in that Avind, 
so Ave crowded into an already 0A r erfilled natiA r e hut and tried to Avait 
patiently for the storm to let up. 

January 15. — The gale showed no signs of abatement; if anything, 
it blew harder than the day before, and Ave concluded not to start. 
In the afternoon Mr. Hultberg, the SAvedish missionary at GoloAdn 
Bay, and a prospector came in from a short distance in the mountains. 
They Avere bound for GoloAdn Baj r but dared not go on, and had paid 
for their trip thus far that day with frozen cheeks and noses. 

January 16. — The gale still continued, and by this time our patience 
Avas nearly Avorn out. This Avas the first time we Avere compelled 
to stop on account of the Aveather, and it was hard to think of the 
time Ave were losing Avith any degree of composure, but the natiA'-es 
and the whites all agreed that it was dangerous to venture out, and I 
reluctantly fell into line, though I resolved no amount of Avind would 
keep us there another day. 



50 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

January 17. — There was still no change in the weather, but bun- 
dling up as well as possible, and taking extra precautions for the pro- 
tection of our faces, Ave started soon after daylight. Fifteen degrees 
below was almost more than one could stand in such a blizzard, but time 
was too precious, to lose any more of it, and as we had come into the 
country to travel, I felt Ave must get along somehoAv. It Avas all the 
deer could do to keep going ahead, and it required all our efforts to 
keep them from turning tail to the wind and going out to sea. As 
Ave had to be very careful, our progress Avas slow; to lose anyone in 
such a storm might mean serious results. We had to make the next 
village ahead, some 35 miles away, for it Avas out of the question to 
pitch the tent in that Avind. Tramping along beside the sleds and 
beating ourselves to keep AA r arm, there were times Avhen Ave anxiously 
looked for the protecting lee of the mountains near Cape Nome. In 
the middle of the day we could see the sun, a red ball through the 
driving snow, but everything on a level Avas a Avinding, blinding 
sheet. As we Avorked on, seeing nothing, buffeted about Irv the fierce 
gusts, it seemed as if Ave Avould certainly paj r dearly for our temerity, 
and even Mikkel, the stolid Lapp, SAA r ore that nothing Avould ever 
induce him to start out in such a blizzard again. In the afternoon 
the wind suddenly lulled, and we found ourselA r es under the lee of 
Cape Nome. We now breathed easier, and several hours later made 
our camp at the Anillage of Kebethluk, on the A\ r est side of the cape. 
It Avas quite a large village, and we saAV eA 7 idences of natiA r e energy 
and improvement, in the comfortable log houses building. It had 
been a Aveaiy day, but we were much gratified to learn from the 
natiA r es that Ave had gotten out of the region of the storm and could 
now go along under the protection of a lee. 

January 18. — We had an experience this morning that taught us 
to keep aAvay from A r illages in the future while traA^eling with deer. 
Just as Ave wei*e ready to start, the native dogs ran out and attacked 
our teams, and only after a hard fight were we able to drive them off . 
The temperature was falling all the time and now registered — 30°, and 
it was a cold day's journej 7 . We hoped to reach Artisarlook's house 
before night, but by 9 p. m. Avere glad to pitch our tent on the moun- 
tain side and let Artisarlook go until to-morroAV. During the night 
I awoke to find one foot feeling like a block of ice, and found that I 
had Avorked into a cramped position which had stopped the circulation 
and the rest of the night I spent kicking that foot to keep it from 
freezing. 

January 19. — I had looked fonvard to this day so long that now it 
had come I almost shrank from the task it brought. We reached 
Artisarlook's house about noon. He and his Avife Avere old friends, 
and I knew I Avould receive a hearty Avelcoine, but hoAv to induce 
them to give up their deer and convince them that the GoA r ernmeut 
Avould return an equal number at some future time, Avas quite another 




PORTION OF REINDEER (.CHARLIE ARTISARLOOK'S HERD). 




PART OF REINDEER (ARTISARLOOK'S HERD) 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 51 

matter. These deer were their absolute property. The Government 
had only a few weeks before taken from Artisarlook the original 
number it had loaned to him because of his good service and charac- 
ter, and had left him the increase, which were now his, and " Charlie," 
as we called him, had come to a realization of his wealth and position. 
Besides this, he and the people gathered about him, were dependent 
upon the herd for food and clothing. 

I explained to him carefully and particularly what the deer were 
wanted for; that I had not come with power or force to take his prop- 
erty from him, and that he must let me have them of his own free will 
and trust to the Government, which I represented, for an ample and 
suitable reward and return. He and his wife, Mary, held a long and 
solemn consultation, and finally explained their position. They were 
soriy for the white men at Point Barrow, and they were glad to be 
able to help them; they would let me have their deer, which repre- 
sented their all, on my promise of return, if I would be directly respon- 
sible for them. They said as I was the man taking them I should be 
directly responsible for them. I readily agreed to this, for I fully 
appreciated their goodness and the justice of their position. They 
were poor except for the deer herd, which was all they had to depend 
upon. There had grown quite a village about them, all in the service of 
the herd, and if I took the deer and "Charlie" away, these people were 
likely to starve unless some arrangements were made for their living. 
I was compelled to arrange for them to obtain enough food to last until 
the arrival of the Bear in the spring, by giving Mary oi'ders on the 
trader at Golovin Bay, and the few supplies remaining at the reindeer 
station at Port Clarence. This finally disposed of, I turned my atten- 
tion to the preparations for getting the herd started. There were 
138 deer in the herd, and of these Charlie owned 133, the other 5 being 
the proper by of some boys whom Charlie employed; and upon consid- 
eration I concluded to buy these five outright, giving in value about 
$15 for each deer. It was estimated that in the spring Charlie's herd 
would have SO fawns which would live, and this increase had to be 
taken into consideration, and repaid in making a settlement with him. 
I engaged Charlie to go with the herd to Point Barrow, to drive and 
care for the deer, at a salary of $30 per month, with the understand- 
ing that his inoney would be properly invested in goods which would 
be brought to him in the Bear. I had dreaded this interview with 
Charlie for fear he might refuse my proposition, but his good charac- 
ter can have no better exposition than that he Avas willing to give up 
his property, leave his family, and go 800 miles from home to help 
white men in distress, under a simple promise that his property would 
be returned to him. 

When we arrived at the house, Charlie was out on the ice sealing, 
but he and his brother soon returned, dragging a seal along behind 
them. 



52 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Along the north shore of the sound the solid ice made off from 5 to 
6 miles, but bej^ond that was open water, and ice drifted about by 
the winds. Every day in good weather the natives go out to this open 
water and watch patiently for hours for a chance shot at a seal. At 
this season the blubber is so thick on their bodies that when killed 
the}'' float, and are easily recovered by throwing a line, with a hook on 
the end, over the floating carcass and drawing it to the edge of the 
ice. Toggling a line into the head, it is then dragged ashore to the 
village. I have often seen it stated that after shooting a seal the men 
will not drag it in, but send out the women to do that part of the 
work — the drudgery. This may happen in some places and in some 
individual cases for individual reasons, but I never saw a time when a 
man did not haul in his own seals, unless he had too many, and then 
a sled would be sent to bring them in. 

There was still much work ahead; many preparations had to be 
made for moving this herd to Cape Prince of Wales to connect with 
the one there; and yet I could not afford to remain behind to attend 
to it, for the principal delay would come when all the deer were finally 
united, and the long journey to Point Barrow to be prepared for. 
Leaving Surgeon Call to make the preparations and come on with the 
herd to Cape Prince of Wales as soon as possible, I left the next day 
with Kettleson and Mikkel, for Port Clarence. The country was now 
level and excellent for traveling, but our deer were tiring, and it was 
well into the night before we made 35 miles, our allotted day's trip. 
The thermometer registering — -10°, we were not very comfortable in 
our tent without a fire, and long before morning Mikkel decided it 
was too cold to sleep, and turned out of his bag, and made a roaring 
fire of driftwood on the beach, of which there is great abundance all 
along this coast. In fact, the whole north shore of Norton Sound is 
lined with driftwood that comes out of the Yukon in the spring, and 
in many places it is piled up high by the southerly gales. 

January 21. — It was very cold sitting idly on a deer sled, aud it 
was all we could do to keep some part of the body from freezing; 
many times a sharp twinge or prick would make one's head turn from 
the wind and his hand go up, to work vigorously to rouse the feeble 
circulation in the end of his nose. It was a beautiful day, the road 
was good, and we had but 15 miles to go, so we were not long in reach- 
ing the shelter of the Teller reindeer station at Port Clarence, then 
occupied by the Rev. T. L. Brevig and wife, Government school- 
teachers. 

The Government herd had left this vicinity December 16, and the 
station was practically abandoned, except for the school, though some 
of the station's supplies were still left. These helped us a great 
deal in the preparations necessary here and Cape Prince of Wales, 
before we were finally on the arctic side of Bering Straits and pointed 
north. The deer that had brought us from Golovin Bay had notice- 




I- 

I 



D 

UJ 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 53 

ably tired toward the last of the journey, and, as it was a hard road 
from here to Cape Prince of Wales, Kettleson feared they might give 
out altogether on the route; so that night I engaged a native and a dog- 
sled, intending to go on alone the next morning. In the morning it was 
blowing a blizzard, with the thermometer — 38°, and my native said it 
was impossible for him to get dogs enough fur the trip, and he would 
not go. I suspected he was afraid of the storm, and after my expe- 
rience I didn't much blame him. I did not like the delay, but I could 
not bribe anyone to start with me that daj r , all having some excuse or 
other, so I was compelled to smother my disappointment and make 
the best of it. I now had time to have my clothes overhauled and put 
in good condition, for one's clothing is subjected to hard usage in 
arctic travel, and constant attention to it is necessary. All the little 
holes must be stopped up, and when one has the time to allow a 
native woman look over one's outfit, a general overhauling is an 
adjunct of safety. I was also able to obtain here the extra deer- 
skin clothing that we needed so badly, extra socks, boots, and an extra 
deerskin artigge, or shirt. Nothing would keep one warm in the 
weather we were having but deerskins, and we were fortunate in being 
able to obtain what we needed, for the miners had pretty well cleaned 
out the suppty in all other parts of the country. 

On starting out I had determined to do as the people who lived in the 
country did — to dress, travel, and live as they did, and, if necessaiy, 
to eat the same food. I found the only way to get along was to con- 
jf'orm as nearly as possible to the customs of those who already had 
solved many of the problems of existence in their arctic climate. In 
this connection it has seemed to me that the value of deei*skin cloth- 
ing has not always been known or f ully appreciated in arctic explora- 
tions. The Eskimo of arctic Alaska and northeast Siberia use hardly 
anything else, and nothing is so warm and light as their dress. There 
are slight local differences in the make-up of the clothing, but in gen- 
eral, the men's winter clothes consist of a single pair of close-fitting 
trousers, with the hair next the skin for cold, and the reverse for 
ordinary weather; a pair of socks, with the hair next the feet; a pair 
of boots with the hair out, with heavy sealskin soles for hard wear 
or deerskin soles for light wear; two artigges, or shirts, one with the 
hair next the body and the other with the hair out, and both with 
close-fitting hoods fringed with wolfskin to break the wind from the 
face and nose; and a pair of mittens. These are all made of the 
summer skins of the reindeer, and the whole outfit will not weigh 
more than 10 or 12 pounds. Over the skin shirt is worn a snow 
shirt, made of drilling, and sometimes a pair of di*ill trousers is worn 
over the skin trousers to keep the snow from driving into the hair, 
and, on coming indoors into a warm house, melting and wetting the 
deerskin. A belt is worn around the waist outside the shirt to keep 
the cold air out, or, rather, to keep the warm air in. This is loosened 
153% 7 



54 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

when the person gets too warm. With this outfit well sewed and 
everything tight, one can defy almost any degree of cold, and no 
amount of woolen clothing accomplishes the same result. The weight 
of one's clothing is very telling in the days and Aveeks of traveling- 
through the snow and over the rough ice, and the lightness of the 
deerskin is one of its most striking features. The skins are beauti- 
fully tanned, and are soft and pliable. The heavy winter skins are 
seldom used for clothes, but make excellent sleeping gear, either as 
mats or blankets, or made up as sleeping bags. Here also their light- 
ness and warmth are their chief recommendations. 

Though my stay was forced and the delay irksome, Mr. and Mrs. 
Brevig did all thej r could to make it pleasant and profitable, and my 
outfit had a thorough overhauling. Mr. Brevig later gave me great 
assistance in paying my debts and furnishing me with supplies to 
start the deer herd, without which I would have been greatly at a loss. 
Here I parted from Dr. Kettleson and Mikkel, as they were to return 
to their herd at Golovin Bay. I was under many obligations to them 
for their assistance thus far and for information concerning reindeer. 

January 23. — Early in the morning, with the thermometer —30° 
and the blizzard still blowing, I finally got started for Cape Prince of 
Wales. There were two natives with me, one Artisarlook and another 
called "Ed," who had spent several years on a whaler at Herschel 
Island. On account of his acquaintance with white men, Ed pre- 
sumed to take charge of me, but a short distance out he discovered 
that his gun had somehow dropped from the sled, and going - back 
over the trail to find it, did not return. Artisarlook and I kept on, 
however, and made slow progress along the beach until about 4 
o'clock, when he wanted to camp. I was not yet tired and thought 
he was trying to work on my fears, and so told him to go on. It was 
now dark and we Avere near Cape York, Avhere the bluffs come doAvn 
abruptly to the sea, and our road was OA r er the ice crushes that lined 
the shore. He Avent ahead to pick out the Avay and I was left to man- 
age the heaA r y sled, which was continuallj r capsizing in the rough ice, 
and it Avas about all we both could do to right it. About 8 o'clock I 
AA'as cornpletety played out and quite Avilling to camp. But Artisar- 
look said "no," it Avas too cold to camp Avithout wood, and, as the ice 
Ave Avere on was in danger of breaking off from the shore any minute, 
it Avas necessary that we get beyond the line of bluffs before stop- 
ping. In the darkness I stepped through a crack in the ice, and my 
leg to the knee was immediately one mass of ice. I AA r as uoav com- 
pelled to go on to some place Avhere my foot gear could be dried, and, 
though almost ready to drop where I Avas, I had to keep on, for to 
stop, meant to freeze. Pushing and lifting our sled, and urging the 
dogs, Ave dragged along until midnight, AA-hen Ave came to a house, 
high up on the shore, that Artisarlook some time before had told mo 
about. Though it turned out to be a horrible place, no palace could 




W. T. LOPP, SUPERINTENDENT OF TELLER REINDEER STATION, 1893-94. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 55 

have been more welcome. It was a small lint, about 10 by 12, and 5 
feet high, and 15 people were already sleeping there. It was most 
filthy and the worst house I have seen in all my Alaskan experience; 
but I was too tired then to care for that, too tired even to eat; and 
though I had had nothing but a couple of crackers since morning, I 
was quite satisfied to take off my wet clothing, crawl into mj T bag, 
and sleep. 

January 24.. — When we awoke in the morning the natives had dried 
our clothes, and urged us to stay, as the blizzard was still raging out- 
side, but their hut was too filthy to remain in it any longer than 
necessary. The air Avas horrible, and it was refreshing to get out- 
side and to be going again through the storm and over the rough ice. 
Even Artisarlook found difficulty in eating his breakfast, and ex- 
plained to me that the house and the people were too dirty for him to 
eat anything with them. There was another village about 10 miles 
farther on, and here we stopped and fortified ourselves with a good 
meal for our hard trip around the mountains of the cape. I also 
engaged a small sled to go with its to lighten the heavy load on the 
one we had. 

I thought the ice we recently passed over had made a rough road, 
but this was even worse, for here Avere all the crushings of the straits 
shoved lip against the mountains that ran down abruptly into the sea, 
and over this kind of ice Ave had to make our Avay. Darkness set 
in long before Ave had come to the Avorst of it, and a faint moon gaA*e 
too little light for such a road. It Avas a continuous jumble of dogs, 
sleds, men, and ice — particularly ice — and it avouM be hard to tell 
which suffered most, men or dogs. Once, in helping the sled over a 
particularly bad place, I Avas thrown 8 or 9 feet cIoaati a slide, landing 
on the back of my head Avith the sled on top of me. Though the 
mercuiy Avas —30°, I was wet through Avith perspiration from the vio- 
lence of the work. O ur sleds were racked and broken, our dogs played 
out, and we ourselves scarcely able to move, Avhen AA r e finally reached 
Mr. Lopp's house at the cape. I think the 50 miles from Port 
Clarence to Cape Prince of Wales, the most trying and fearful of all 
I experienced on the expedition, and I was about convinced then that 
if there Avere any more places like that, a relay of men would be 
needed, as well as of dogs and reindeer. The next morning both 
Artisarlook and myself were so completely done up we could scarcely 
raise our feet. 

My arrival at Cape Prince of Wales caused great excitement in the 
village, and Mr. and Mrs. Lopp were much exercised to know what 
brought an officer of the Government into the country at this time of 
the year. I delivered to Mr. Lopp his mail, and explained to him the 
necessity of the situation at Point Barrow and the desire of the Depart- 
ment that he become a part of the expedition. He Avas indispensable. 
His capability of handling natives, his knowledge of them and the 



56 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

reindeer, was far above that of any one in the country. While in no 
way ostentatious, he and Mrs. Lopp had acquired a position of ascend- 
enc)' and respect among the natives that was productive of the great- 
est success iu bettering the condition of the latter. I felt sure he 
would go with me, but knew there must be many grave matters to 
be considered and settled before he could leave. He first explained 
to me the position his reindeer herd occupied. Some were owned by 
his society, the American Missionary Association, others by himself 
and his "boys," or native herders — six bright, smart Eskimo youths, 
whom he had trained to be excellent deermen — and a small number 
were owned by natives of the Cape Prince of Wales village. The 
Association had written him to use his best judgment about letting 
the deer go, and gave him liberty to leave his station if he deemed it 
best. The reindeer had been builded upon by his people as their 
future wealth and support in life, and to lose them now would be to 
make a break in the work that could not be reckoned. Still, in the 
interest of humanity, he said he would give them all, explain the 
case to the natives, and induce them to give their deer also, if I would 
throw around them all the safeguards in my power, to the effect that 
their loss would be fully repaired and repaid. 

At his solicitation I gave him a receipt for the deer herd, specifying 
that I, as the representative of the United States Treasury Depart- 
ment, received them for the use of that Department, which he desired 
should also assume the responsibility of their return. There were 
in all 301 in the herd, 292 of which were given up on this promise 
of return, but the other 9 belonged to a native who was unwilling 
to part with his in this way, and as it was impracticable to separate 
the herd, I was compelled to buy these 9, giving orders for goods 
upon Mr. Brevig at Port Clai-enee and upon you. Once Mr. Lopp 
decided to go, a very important consideration was the position and 
welfare of his wife and family during his absence. Instead of holding 
her husband back, Mrs. Lopp urged him to go, believing it to be his 
duty. It Avas first suggested that she and the children go to Port 
Clarence and remain with Mr. Brevig and his wife, but Mrs. Lopp 
would not leave her home and the work to which she had devoted her 
life, and insisted upon remaining, together with her children, the only 
white persons in this village of over 500 natives. Though in a most 
trying position during Mr. Lopp's absence, her faith iu the native 
character and her hold upon it were vindicated, for she not only had 
little or no trouble, but received much help and comfort from them 
while her husband was away with the expedition. I am glad to be 
able to say this not only to testify to the sincerhy and braveiy of 
both Mr. and Mrs. Lopp, but also to demonstrate that the natives 
of this particular village are not the wild, reckless, murdering people 
that many have represented them to be, but, on the contrary, are a 
good, brave, and generous tribe. 




5 
< 



Q 

2 
UJ 
DC 



CRUISE Of THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 57 

The journey and task ahead of us was a hazardous one, any way 
we might look at it, and it was necessaiy before starting to make the 
most careful and ample preparations. First, Mr. Lopp engaged his 
six herders, Ootenna, Khyearzruk, Sokweena, Keuk, Ituk, andNetax- 
ite, and a sled was sent to Port Clarence to bring back Tautuk, a 
herder there. jSTetaxite was left behind to work for Mrs. Lopp and 
care for the house, thus giving us 7 herders, including Artisarlook. 
We Ave re making an experiment; no such undertaking had ever 
before been tried in Alaska, and we could not tell how long it would 
require to travel the 700 miles ahead of us. We must, if possible, 
get to Point Barrow before April, as by that time the fawning season 
began. Again, it was necessaiy to fit out the party to be independent 
of villages, from the beginning to the end of the journey. I had no 
fear of the natives we might meet, but the dogs at any place might 
dispei'se our deer herd and leave us stranded. We had a great 
amount of work to accomplish before we could start. Sleds must 
be built, the herders must be fitted out properly with clothing, clothes 
bags, tents, stoves, camp gear, and spare harness, and lassoes must be 
made. Clothing was the most important item, for herding and driv- 
ing are particularly hard on skin clothes, and everything available 
was bought and made up, for, even if we did not need it, it would 
be invaluable at Point Barrow. It was not until the 29th that these 
preparations were finished and we were able to go out to the herd, 
which was about 20 miles distant, on the north shore of the cape, and 
where we arrived on the 30th. 

The herd was in excellent condition, but there was only a small 
number of trained sled deer for so large a party, and outfit as we had 
to cany with us. Dr. Call with Artisarlook's herd had not yet arrived, 
and we set to work making the best use of the time, building more 
sleds and breaking in sled deer. On the night of February 1 Tautuk 
arrived from Port Clarence with two good sled deer of his own, two 
sleds, and a lot of clothing from the Teller Reindeer Station. He 
reported that Dr. Call and Artisarlook had left Port Clarence that 
same day and that he rdust have passed them somewhere in the moun- 
tains. Our anxiety was relieved the next afternoon, however, when 
the doctor and Charlie showed up with their herd. They had a hard 
time of it from Point Rodney, with storms and deep snow in the 
mountains, and had lost two deer on the road. Things had now a 
much more assuring aspect, and we were all anxious to get off on what 
we hoped would be a successful journey, but which had doubtful 
points about it that could not be foretold. 

February 3 we started with 438 deer and a train of 18 sleds. It took 
a long time to break camp and pack and lash all these sleds, as well 
as to lasso and harness the deer to draw them. Mr. Lopp and three 
herders having light sleds and well-broken deer, went behind the herd, 
driving from one side to the other and keeping it moving on the jump. 



58 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Tautuk brought with him a small Lapp dog that was trained to this 
work, and this little fellow circled arouud>he outer edges of the herd 
and kept the deer from straying. If one started from the herd, the 
dog was after him, barking at his heels until he returned. In this 
way the deer were kept moving along in one compact body, and as the 
road was hard and fairly level, we went at a very good pace. The 
rest of us went with the train, which consisted of the other thirteen 
sleds and deer. This train was realty three separate trains, two of 
four, and one of five sleds. The deer in each train were tied by their 
lariats to the sled ahead, and the driver sitting on the head sled, guided 
his deer, while the others were compelled to follow. The doctor at 
times took part in the driving, but I was content to sit on a sled in 
one of the trains and see the procession ahead of me. In this way one 
man handled four or five sleds, and many are the tangles and jumbles 
the animals get into when going up and down the hills, for in trains 
like this the deer soon worry themselves into a state of excitement. 
By night we had made from 6 to 8 miles, and though it was not much 
in distance, we had moved from our base, and it seemed that we had 
made a good start at doing something. 

February 4- — It took a long time this morning to break camp and 
get the sleds moving, and I grew impatient at the dela} 7 . We kept to 
the hills, for there the deer moss was plentiful. Indeed, it seemed 
the disposition of the deer people to stick to the hills as their natural 
fields. This is very well for ordinary work and travel, but our expe- 
rience later on proved that the nearer we kept to the level ground and 
the ice on the coast, even though at night we had to drive some dis- 
tance back to find moss, the more distance ahead we could make, and 
with much less trial and exertion to ourselves and the deer. The 
baggage train was the worst part of the outfit, and caused nearly all 
of the delays. This day we probably made about 12 miles, which was 
good progress if we could keep it up, but it was evident that our sled 
deer would play out in a short time if we could not reduce the weight 
on the train. 

The country was rolling and apparently perfectly barren. The high 
winds that had prevailed, had packed the snow hard wherever it was 
exposed, and even in the deep valleys there was crust enough to bear 
the weight of the sleds. There was moss for the deer all over the 
country, but it was most abundant on the hilltops. It was an ideal 
reindeer country, and this north shore of the peninsula would support 
large and numerous herds. Alders and willow grow along the banks 
of the streams, but in most places the snow was so deep that ihey 
were completely covered. We had to depend upon these for firewood, 
and it was very difficult to get enough for our purpose. 

February 5. — On this clay, though we were under way about six 
hours, we made but 8 miles. Something had to be done, for the de- 
lays and vexations of the baggage train were causing the loss of valu- 



CEUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 59 

able time and wearing ont the deer. We were breaking fresh ones 
each night, bnt these were poor makeshifts, and it was hard work get- 
ting them along. Upon talking it over with Mr. Lopp, I decided to 
leave the herd in his sole charge, and take the doctor, with our bag- 
gage, down to a village on the coast, there secure dog teams, and go 
on to Kotzebue Sound, apprising the people of Mr. Lopp's coming, and 
make such arrangements as were possible to help him along. I was 
disappointed to leave the herd, for I had hoped to travel Avith it to 
Point Barrow and help solve the problem of the route farther on, but 
the necessity of the situation required some radical change. 

It was found that our leaving would take away the loads of six sleds. 
We were not essential to the progress of the herd, Mr. Lopp and his 
herders having all the knowledge and experience necessaiy for the 
work in hand, and we, with our baggage, were just so much more to 
be hauled. By transferring our outfit to dog teams we would relieve 
the train of that much weight. Besides, there were many things I 
could do ahead to help them along. The natives bej 7 ond Cape Prince 
of Wales had never seen domestic deer, had no knowledge of their 
coming through the country, and might, as happened later at one 
place, take them for wild deer and go gunning for them. This dan- 
ger I could guard against by telling the people at each village Avhat 
was coming behind. There was information as to the best route and 
the character of the country that I could gather in advance and pre- 
pare the way with guides, etc. These matters were all discussed with 
Lopp and an understanding as to our different movements arrived at. 

It was hoped that the herd would be able to cross Kotzebue Sound 
on the ice, and thus save the long journey around the head of the 
Sound, and yet this was very doubtful, depending, of course, upon the 
winds. A southeast wind breaks up the ice in the Sound and opens 
leads of water through it, while a northerly wind keeps the ice firm 
and in place, and the cold soon freezes over any open places. I was 
to learn the conditions of the ice over the Sound and send back word 
to Lopp how to prepare for this part of the journey. 

February 6. — This morning while Ave were preparing to start for 
Sinrazat, a village on the coast, the very man we wanted, a native, 
Perninyuk by name, came tramping over the hill back of our camp. 
He Avas on a hunting trip and was probably the only man for miles 
around, and how he came to strike our camp at the very time AA r e 
wanted him so badly was unexplaiuable. After the freezing of the 
streams in the fall the people hereabouts depend upon sealing and 
rabbit hunting for their Avinter's food, part of the population remain- 
ing on the coast, going out on the ice every favorable dayAvhen there 
is open water offshore, while others go back into the hills trapping 
rabbits, and Perninyuk had just come out for that purpose. I engaged 
him to go along the coast Avith us as guide, and, Lopp having driven us 
to the village of Sinrazat, we parted there on the night of the 6th 



60 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

with mutual good wishes and hopes of meeting again in the vicinity 
of Kotzebue Sound. 

Along these shores stretches a series of lagoons from Cape Prince 
of Wales to within 40 miles of Cape Espenberg, the largest being 
Schischmareff Inlet, into which two fair-sized rivers flow from the 
mountains to the south. Though a large body of water, it is filled 
with bars, and its opening to the sea is hardly more than deep enough 
for a boat. Where the lagoons end the coast is a line of bluffs and 
small sand hills until Cape Espenberg is reached, which terminates 
in a veiy low sand spit. 

There are numerous remains of old villages all along the coast, 
but that they are now deserted I believe to be due not so much to 
the fact that there are less people, as to the desire to change a 
situation when the houses get into bad repair and the accumulation 
of tilth is too great about them. Wood is plentiful, and it is no great 
task to get enough for a new house when wanted. 

We now began a very trying experience. The natives along this 
part of the coast were very poor, and scattered in small numbers at 
distances of about 20 miles apart. Sealing had been very poor. In 
some places their dogs had starved, and the people themselves had 
little to eat. No one man seemed to possess more than two or three 
dogs at most, and the difficulties of obtaining means of travel were 
almost insurmountable. It seemed impossible to get anyone to either 
take us, or go along with us more than one clay's journey from his own 
home. The best we could do during the day was about 20 or 25 miles, 
and at night it was a long, trying ordeal, to buy, borrow, or hire 
dogs, sleds, and men to go on to the next village. We found one 
man who was on his way to Point Hope to bring back a bride, and I 
induced him to join our train and help us along, but one morning, 
farther on, his heart failed him and he deserted, leaving us badly in 
the lurch. 

Our trials were many and exasperating. We Avould buy or hire 
dogs, only to have them run away and return to their owners after 
going but a short distance with us. Native dogs are veiy unlikely to 
remain with anyone (particularly white men) but their owners, if 
they are within reach of the village where they live. They will chew 
off the stoutest harness or rope, and nothing but a chain will keep them 
securely, but chains are too much weight to cany on so long a jour- 
ney. Finally, by bribing, threatening, and offering shiploads of pro- 
visions, we managed to reach Toatut at Cape Espenberg. We were 
completely worn out, and our provisions had been drawn upon so 
extensively by our native friends that hardly more remained now 
than a few broken crackers, enough beans for a day, and some tea. 
They had been hungry for white man's food, and had helped them- 
selves to ours and eaten to their hearts' content, while we dared not 
say a word lest they should leave us. Finally, at this place, all of 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 61 

them except Perninyuk did leave us and take their sleds with them, 
and I think mainly because thej' thought we would starve, for evi- 
dently they had no faith in my story of the sled loads of provisions 
awaiting us at Cape Blossom. 

There were only two huts in Toatut, and in these were crowded 
twenty people; but no inducement could get them to go across the 
Sound the next day. It was more than 40 miles over the ice to Cape 
Blossom, where I felt Lieutenant Bei'tholf was waiting for us with his 
load of provisions and, probably wondering what had become of us, 
for we were now about a week behind our plans. I was tired and 
worried. We had been separated since December 20 and had heard 
absolutely nothing of Bertholfs whereabouts or his progress since 
that time, and did not know even if he had arrived at St. Michael. I 
had left him at Kiyiligamute to wait for dogs. Had they come on 
time, or did he have to wait? Had any accident or sickness befallen 
him, and had he been able to get across the divide to the Arctic with 
his heavy load? Was the snow too deep or soft, and had he been 
stalled somewhere? There were no people in all that long route, and 
he had to depend upon his preparations entirely. His provisions we 
were now greatly in need of, and our progress from here on absolutely 
depended on them. The deer hei*d was behind, and I could not help 
being Avorried over its progress. 

I had perfect faith in Lopp and his boys, but the progress while I 
had been Avith the herd Avas so vexatious and slow that I could only 
hope that Avith less baggage it would improve after we had left and 
after all hands had become more accustomed to the daily travel. Our 
OAvn position was also rather bad, Avith no provisions and no sleds, and 
40 miles of ice that might open at any time between lis and the hope 
of supplies. A week before the ice had been open, but for the last 
five days the wind had been from the north, with the thermometer 
from — 20° to — 25°, and the old men of the village said the ice Avas 
all right. Yet nothing could induce the young men to cross Avith us 
the next day. "No," they said, "not until Ave go out on the ice and 
see for ourselves whether it is safe or not." I tried to explain to them 
that another day and another Avind might change matters, but it was 
of no use, they would not move. All the next day we Avere compelled 
to wait, idly gazing at the mountains on the other side and wonder- 
ing whether there was more to eat there than on our side. There was 
nothing else to do but Avait. We could not carry our clothes and out- 
fits ourselves, nor could Ave replace them, for deerskins Avere worth 
more than their weight in gold in these parts. Perniiryuk, Avho had 
remained faithful to us, helped us pass the day and compose ourselves 
by giving an exhibition of his magic. He Avas a natiA^e doctor, or 
" unatkook," and the performance consisted of tAvo hours of frenzied 
tragic declamation and crawling around on the floor, combined with 
a few simple tricks. 



62 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

That night I had an interesting experience, which showed how easil} 7 
natives' actions may be misunderstood and misrepresented. There was 
an old couple living in the house, and hearing something unusual in 
their corner, I looked over and saw the old man tie a string around 
his wife's neck and put a long stick in the loop. The old woman was 
sick. I have long' heard of how the old and sick are sometimes killed 
to put them out of their miseries and relieve their relatives of the 
burden of keeping them, and the thought came that the old man was 
going to strangle his wife by twisting on the stick. I immediately 
made strong objections to what seemed to me would soon be murder, 
whereupon the natives, who showed astonishment at my interference, 
called in Perninyuk, and he explained how I was mistaken. There was 
no intention of harming the old woman, but she was sick in the head, 
being- possessed there of a devil in the shape of a dog, and night 
and morning had to be tied up in this way like a dog and incantations 
said over her to drive out the devil. My mistake Avas amusing and 
very natural, and showed how easily one may be mistaken in a people 
whose ways and customs one does not understand. Without Per- 
ninyuk's explanation, I might have taken to myself the credit of 
stopping a deliberate murder, whereas I was onlj- interfering with 
the administering of the doctor's prescription. 

Toward evening the man who had gone out in the morning came 
back and reported the ice as far as he had gone to be good and hard, 
and that they would start with us the following morning. 

Februarxj 12. — By this time the days were fast growing longer, and it 
was light shortly after 8 o'clock, when we started. At the last minute 
our prospective bridegroom deserted us and we had to begin a great 
hustling for dogs in this small village. Fortunately, one of the young 
men thought he would like to visit some friends and do a little trad- 
ing on the other side of the Sound, and he offered us his dogs if we 
would take him and his stock along. I was never more relieved than 
when we finally rushed down the bank on to the ice and were pointed 
for the mountains back of Cape Blossom. Along the shores and for 
miles out on the sound there were heavy crushes of ice over which we 
had to pick our way veiy carefully, often being obliged to carry our 
sleds, as we wound in and out hunting for the smooth patches of ice 
that a few days before had been open leads. The north wind still 
prevailed, and with the bright, clear sky the mountains looked close, 
but after traveling hard all day they seemed little nearer than when 
we started. The natives wanted to camp when it fell dark, but I was 
determined to make the land on the other side before stopping, no 
matter how long it took. A few crumbs of crackers and some frozen 
deer meat were about all we had in our provision box, and I was not 
going to lie caught out there with all Lieutenant Bertholf's stores onty 
a few miles away. 

After nightfall we kept our course by the stars, and the natives, 
who were tired out, claimed we would miss the village, wander a long 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 63 

way up Hotham Inlet, and lose ourselves till morning. But being- 
convinced of my deteiunination to keep on they said no more about 
camping, and we woi'ked on over the rough places, almost famished, 
but hustling the dogs and ourselves to keep warm. Suddenly, about 
10.30 p. m., we came against the land at the graveyard below the vil- 
lage of Kikiktaruk, and soon after drew iip at the house of Rev. 
Robert Samms, a Quaker missionary, who, with his wife and Miss 
Hunnicutt, a teacher, had established themselves at this place during 
the previous summer. Here also was Lieutenant Bertholf, Avho had 
arrived the night before. We were relieved and overjoyed. Every- 
thing at this end had turned out well, although Lieutenant Bertholf 
had a hard time getting his provisions across the portage. Engle- 
stadt, the trader at YJnalaklik, Avho Avas to furnish the teams for the 
trip, had failed to keep his agreement, and Bertholf had been, at the 
mercy of some unscrupulous natiA^es, and forced to go back to Golovin 
Bay to the deer camp, and there obtain seven deer and sleds, Avith a 
Lapp and a natiA T e driver to help him along. But he ai'iwed all right, 
with the provisions intact, and Ave Avere now fully able to prepare all 
parts of the expedition for the long and hazardous journey to Point 
Barrow. There Avas not much to be done that night. Both parties 
had had all they could stand and needed rest. The weather had been 
growing colder and the light north wind made the 62° of frost biting 
and sharp, but we felt much better in the tent that night after a good 
supper, knoAving eA r erything was in good shape, than Ave would have 
been out on the ice of the sound, Avith no fire and nothing to eat. 

February 13. — We spent the day overhauling our outfits and decid- 
ing upon points further on. There was much information to be gath- 
ered as to whether the deer herd should keep the coast or strike up 
the Noatuk River and down the Ootokok, or the Ikpikpung rivers to 
Point Barrow. It seemed shorter to strike across the country, but 
the considerations of timber, deep snow, and the possibilities of getting 
lost or stalled in the mountains were too great and too much fraught 
with danger to be faced, and it appeared best to keep to the coast 
as far as possible, proA^iding Ave could find moss for the deer. 

Bertholf had bought at St. Michael the dog team that had carried 
me from Tununak, and, having brought it over the portage with him, 
this relieved me to a great extent of the difficulties of travel further 
on. He had also brought seA^en good sled deer, fiA^e from the GoA^ern- 
ment herd and tAvo from the herd of the SAvedish missions. These I 
decided to keep to help out the train in our large herd. Lopp's sled 
deer must soon be played out, or at least well tired, and these seven 
would be a A^aluable addition. 

I paid off and sent back the Laplander and the natives who had 
come in Lieutenant Bertholf 's train, exept one native herder, Okitkun, 
who was retained to care for the deer they brought. I knew him as a 
thoroughly good and reliable Eskimo, and, moreover, an excellent 
deerman — one of the best in the country, and I Avanted him here when 



64 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

our herd came along, for Lopp's choice, if lie should be needed, or in 
case any of our herders had played out. Accidents were alwaj-s pos- 
sible in such work as they were engaged in, and as things had to be 
prepared for here, I wanted to take all the safeguards possible. 

Lopp, however, was not here yet, and there was no way of telling 
when he would arrive; it seemed at Toatut that the ice was too rough 
for the deer to cross to Kruzenstern, and I had left a letter advising 
him not to try it, for, though the trip around Kotzebue Sound would 
take at least ten days, it seemed better to go that way than to run the 
risk of having the herd scattered on the ice, and perhaps lost. As I 
did not expect the herd at Cape Blossom for a week, and, if they went 
around the Sound, two weeks, I could not wait that long. I must get 
to Point Barrow news of our coming and obtain news from there as 
soon as possible. Point Hope was but a week's journey distant and I 
felt sure some news would be there, if not some of the Point Barrow 
people themselves, for there were ample stores at Point Hope, which 
the people at Point Barrow knew. 

Arranging our affairs to provide against accidents or delays, I 
decided to take Surgeon Call and continue on to Point Hope at least, 
leaving Lieutenant Bertholf behind with the provisions to wait for 
the arrival of Lopp and the deer herd. The situation was thoroughly 
understood between us, and leaving orders for Bertholf to come on to 
Point Hope if he did not continue with the deer herd, we left Cape 
Blossom on the morning of the 16th. The weather had continued 
clear and cold, with the thermometer registering about —35° for several 
days. 

Striking across Hotham Inlet toward Cape Kruzenstern, we reached 
the village of Anyok that night. This was the place the deer herd 
was to make for, from Cape Espenberg, and though now I hardly 
expected them to come that way, it was well to prepare the people 
and have them on the lookout. As it turned out afterwards, they 
were, at that very time, cauiped out on the ice but 10 miles from the 
village. From here on to Point Hope we had ideal weather for trav- 
eling, clear and cold, the thermometer ranging from — 30° to — 42° 
the whole way, and we had to keep moving. With plenty of food and 
plenty of driftwood along the beach, we were able to fortif}' ourselves 
against the cold, and by exercising care and paying attention to our 
noses and cheeks, we were not touched even in these sensitive places. 

The difference between care and carelessness is slight, in arctic 
travel, and the first let-up is sure to bring its reminder in the shape of 
a frosted toe or finger or a frozen nose. One must be on guard, and the 
slightest tinge in the nose or cheek must be heeded, and circulation 
started again by vigorous rubbing. Though somewhat disagreeable 
and painful, freezing these parts is not necessarily harmful unless too 
long neglected. I saw a case where the end of a man's nose had 
dropped off from frostbite, but such things are rare. Usually the 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 65 

skin is discolored, becomes dead and peels off, leaving the member 
quite sensitive for a time. But with the hands, and especially the 
feet, it is different. No part of the body requires more attention 
than these; socks and boots must be well made and kept thoroughly 
dry; even the slightest perspiration will, if one stops too long, workdis-. 
astrously. Both boots and socks should be changed immediately upon 
going into camp, and dry ones must be put on in the morning before 
starting. The natives know the importance of this only too well, and 
if they see one inclined to neglect these precautions, they will insist 
on his taking care of his foot gear. It is the easiest thing in the world 
for a man to suffer severely in such a climate, but it is possible, by 
good cai*e and attention, to avoid what one might call extreme suffer- 
ing, and live there with only the unavoidable discomforts of the coun- 
try, to which a man in good health sooner or later grows accustomed. 

We had now bade good-bye to native houses, and, except at Point 
Hope, camped in our tent from here on to Point Barrow. I much 
preferred the tent for cleanliness and health, although when, after a 
long, hard day's travel, we drew up at a village cold, hungry, and 
tired, it required considerable determination and a more powerful 
consideration than cleanliness to resist the temptation to get in out of 
the cold as soon as possible. Pitching the tent and making a proper 
camp seemed, at such times, an endless job, and one was apt to crawl 
into the nearest hut, drag off his bundling clothes, and settle down in 
some corner in peiffect peace, while the men of the house went outside 
and attended to the wants of the teams and secured the sleds for the 
night. The hospitality of these people I have never seen equaled 
elsewhere. It is never grudging; it is thrust upon you. Thebestthey 
have, and the best place in the house are at your disposal. It is so 
universal that it comes as a matter of course, and as a result does not 
seem to be properly recognized or appreciated. Often it is embarrass- 
ing, for the natives are so insistent and generous that it is hard to 
refuse to accept their offers, and go about your business in your own 
waj r . Never in all our journey did wo pass a house where the people 
did not extend a cordial welcome and urge us to go in; and hardly a 
hut that we did go into, but the best place was cleared out for us and 
our belongings. "What this means to a tired, cold, and hungry traveler 
can not be fully appreciated save by those Avho have experienced it, 
and my former good impressions of the Alaskan Eskimo were but 
intensified by this winter's journey. All that we ever gave in return 
for such hospitality, and all that was expected was a cup of tea and 
a cracker to the inmates of the house after we had finished our meal. 

From Cape Prince of Wales on we had been treated to bright auroral 
displays almost every night. They generally came out of a dark bank 
that would form in the northern horizon just after dark, and stretch 
in long shooting streamers that gradually worked over the heavens to 
the opposite horizon, waving back and forth, so close to the earth as 
15396 8 



66 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

to be seemingly Avithin reach, and then as gradually receded and sub- 
sided. Usualty they came in extremely cold weather and seemed to 
presage cold weather for the following daj r . I was particularly on the 
watch to see the brilliant colors so often described, but was disap- 
pointed; and, while they lit up the heavens and the snow-covered 
earth, I could note only a faint orange and violet color in the displays, 
and people who have lived in the countiy many years told me they 
never showed more color than we saw, so I concluded that, on this coast 
at least, they were seldom more than streaks of orange tinged light. 
During the coldest days there were numerous sun-dogs, and, sailor- 
bke, when two and often three of these showed in the sky, I anticipated 
bad and stormy weather, but it never came, and it seemed that good 
weather instead of bad followed in these regions. 

On the morning of the 20th we pulled up at the house of Mr. Nelson, 
manager of Liebes & Co.'s trading and whaling station at Point Hope. 
Mr. Nelson was away farther down the Point, and it was reported 
that a man had just come from Point Barrow. Here was the news I 
expected and had come all this way to obtain. Dispatching a sled 
for Mr. Nelson and Ned Arey, the man who had come from Point 
Barrow, they soon returned to the house, wanting to see the men who 
had come into that countiy in the winter. It was more than they 
could at first realize, and we were as much objects of curiosity here as 
at the other places on our route. Arey had arrived from Point Bar- 
row the day before, and had been more than a month on the way, hav- 
ing left there January 18. He described the situation at that time as 
bad, but as yet not serious. Provisions, of course, were very short, 
but there was enough flour, bread, tea, and coffee to keep them going 
until the middle of May. The men had been kept together and pre- 
vented from straying. Three deaths were reported — one from dropsy 
and two from freezing. Scurvy was feared and had already made its 
appearance on the Belvedere. Providentially, there had come into 
the surrounding country large numbers of wild deer, or caribou, and 
native hunters, who had been sent out earty in the winter, had killed 
and sent in enough meat to keep the crowd going, with the stores they 
already had. Mr. C. D. Brower had given up his stock of provisions 
and was managing the people ashore, and hoped to get enough meat 
from the spring hunting to keep actual starvation from setting in. I 
felt relieved to learn things had gone so well thus far, and I could 
now turn back to the deer herd to further its progress. 

I had decided to send Surgeon Call on to Point Barrow to let the 
people there know of our coming, and on the night of the 21st was 
prepared to leave the next morning for Kotzebue Sound and there 
await Lopp's coming, when a messenger arrived, bringing a letter 
from him, stating that he had arrived at Anyok, on Cape Kruzen- 
stern, on the morning of the 18th, after a terrible journey across the 
ice from Cape Espenberg. He had not received my letter at Toatut, 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

advising him not to make the attempt. They had crossed where I 
thought it would be impossible, and had a hard experience, but thej 
saved a distance of 150 miles and probably two weeks in doing it. I 
■was greatly relieved and overjoyed at this news; our plans were mov- 
ing on to success, and I can not speak too highly of Lopp and his boys 
for the courage, fortitude, and skill they showed in making that awful 
trip successfully. They had arrived at Toatut shortly after we left 
there, and determined to risk themselves and the deer by crossing on 
the ice rather than take ten days or two weeks to go around by land. 

After traveling all day and well into the night, they camped about 
10 miles from the laud on the north side, but during the night the 
deer wandered off, and the next morning were found many miles back 
on the trail they had just come over, making their way to where they 
knew Avas feed. The boys rounded them up and started again for 
Cape Kruzenstern, and traveled all that day and night until daybreak 
the next morning before making the land. Deer and men were in the 
same condition, almost dead from hunger and fatigue. Six sled deer 
had become exhausted and were left on the ice, but the remainder 
had been brought safely over, and with the good moss found in the 
vicinity and a rest, t.hey would soon be in good condition again. 

Gathering some further supplies for them, I started down the coast 
on February 24, together with Nelson, to meet them at the Kivalena 
River. That night we camped at Carje Seppings, and the next day 
kept on to the Kivalena River. It grew much milder toward night 
and soon it snowed, as it always does with mild weather in the win- 
ter, and we were very glad to make a small native hut in the brush. 
The next day it was snowing so fiercely that no one dared ventui o from 
the house for fear of getting lost. I was fearful lest I should miss the 
deer herd, but experience and patience are the chief virtues in this 
country, and one has to be content with the conditions found. 

February 26. — The snow let up enough this morning for us to find 
the hut where I planned to meet Lopp. This was a deep, wide A T alley 
among the mountains, and winding our wa} T along the Kivalena River, 
we finally came to the place we were hunting for, but hardly had we 
got started making our camp when a native boy came running up, 
saying he had seen the deer. Sending our guide back with the boy, 
they found the herd and soon returned to our camp with Mr. Lopp. 
He showed the marks of frozen cheeks and nose that all his party had 
gotten in their hard trip over the ice of Kotzebue Sound. He was 
thankful that Avas over and the deer safely on this side of the Sound; 
and after carefully considering the features of the country, Ave con- 
cluded that it would be Avisest for the herd to go up the Kivalena 
River and then cross the mountains to the headwaters of the Pit- 
megea River on the north side. This Avas the last great trial, to get 
the deer on the north side of these mountains, and had caused us 
much anxiety and study. We had canvassed and discussed with 



68 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

natives and whites all the routes from the Noatnk to the Ikpikpung, 
the Ootookok, and the Kookpownuk, and finally after long considera- 
tion and in the light of our own experiences thus far, concluded the 
shortest route away from shore was the best, and that the closer we 
kept to the coast the safer not only would the deer be b\it also the 
men. Lopp had communicated with Lieutenant Bertholf at Kikik- 
taruk, and had taken his supplies. Bertholf had come up along the 
coast with him until their routes divided, the day before. 

February 28 and March 1 I spent in camp with the deer herd. The 
soft weather brought lots of snow and a southeast gale, and all we 
could do was to stay inside the tent and try to keep dry and comfort- 
able; but at best it was very trying, for time was flying, and we 
were anxious to get the herd to its destination before the fawns began 
to make their appearance. We had been nearly four weeks moving 
the herd thus far and had fully 400 miles more of travel against the 
northeast wind that generally prevails in this part of the country dur- 
ing the winter, and only this month of March to do it in, and could 
afford to lose no time. 

March 2. — It was clear this morning, so we dug our tent and sleds 
out of the snow and prepared to start, Lopp and the herd u\) the 
Kivalena River, and I around the coast to Point Hope to meet Bert- 
holf and Call, and then to follow on up the coast past Lisburne, 
and meet Lopp as he came out on the north coast at the mouth of the 
Pitmegea River. Before we could start two of our dogs got adrift 
and into the herd and started them off. We tried at first to shoot the 
dogs, but had to stop for fear of hitting the deer instead. After racing 
around in a circle a few times the herd took off in one body for a 
mountain, about 5 miles awaj 7 . Three of the boj 7 s started after them, 
and as the dogs soon tired of running in the deep snow and abandoned 
the chase, the boys caught the herd and drove it back, but not before 
two deer (cows) were so badly injured that they had to be killed. 
They both had prospective fawns, so Ave really lost four animals by this 
bad job of the dogs. That night I reached Cape Seppings and found 
Bertholf, he having been stalled there by the storm, and hearing we 
had passed down the coast had waited for us. 

March 3. — We arrived again to-day at Nelson's house at Point Hope, 
having been gone eight days oil the back track. As I had laid out our 
journey to Point Barrow, we had gone now about three-fourths of the 
distance. So far we had been successful and it remained to prepare 
well for this last quarter of the journey, for it was to be the hardest 
of all, as well as the most lonety. After leaving Point Hope there 
were no villages until Point Belcher was reached, 300 miles away, and 
we must depend upon what we carried with us for both men and dogs. 
Again, there were the people at Point Barrow to consider and the object 
of our mission. There were ample stores at Point Hope that could be 
spared for 100 men, and our orders contemplated sending some of the 
shipwrecked men here. 




NATIVE MAN AND WOMAN FROM POINT HOPE VILLAGE. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BE 69 

If the provisions at Point Barrow ran out in May, as we had been 
informed by Arey would probably be the case, it, would never do to 
keep 300 men there until August with plenty of stores at Point Hope. 
Looking at it from this point and from this end of the route, I decided 
that upon arriving at Point Barrow I would send 100 men dow n from 
there to Point Hope, and that I would leave Lieutenant Bertholf at 
the latter place to take care of them as they came down. They would 
have to travel a distance of about -400 miles and it would be a severe 
journey, as it must all be made on foot, and provisions carried or 
dragged on sleds the whole distance. With a view to relieving them 
at this end and reducing the amount of provisions to be carried from 
Point Barrow, Lieutenant Bertholf was instructed to transport and 
place about 500 pounds of flour, tea, bread, etc., at the mouth of the 
Pitmegea River, nearly 100 miles up the coast. I designed that the 
men should be started in parties of ten, with a leader, and provisions 
enough to last to the Pitmegea River. 

The prevailing wind was northeast, and in the spring the weather 
would be warm enough to prevent any danger of freezing, and the 
wind would be at their backs. If it were possible tc supply the men 
with proper foot gear, there would be no great difficulty in carrying 
out this arrangement, though there was a possibility of some of the 
men playing out on the road. Still it appeared to be better to run 
this risk than to have them all remain at one place without sufficient 
food, with the consequent starvation and disorder. 

Within the past ten years knowledge of how to distill spirituous 
liquor in a crude way, from flour and molasses or sugar has spread all 
over this coast and has worked incalculable harm to the natives, caus- 
ing great destitution and at times even murder. The natives at Point 
Hope Avere the first to learn this from white men, and it has been car- 
ried on there to a greater extent than anywhere else on the coast. 
Recently several willful murders had been committed, one in particu- 
lar, that of a native named Washok, by two others, Avulik and Shug- 
unera, and Lieutenant Bertholf was instructed to give his attention to 
these matters during his stay and take such measures as he could 
to break up the distilling and to arrest the murderers. 

It Avas difficult to secure a man and his wife to accompany us on the 
journey to Point BarroAv, for none wanted to go into what seemed a 
starvation camp, even though I promised to send them back to Point 
Hope immediately. I Avas persuaded by others that a Avonian Avas 
necessary to look out for our clothes, but if I had the journey to do 
over again I would never take a Avoman when I could get a half-groAvn 
boy or a man, for women are not so strong and can not stand con- 
tinuous traA T el like a man. 

We had now come so great a distance that, while we were some- 
what hardened to the Avork, Ave had been at it so long Ave Avere neces- 
sarily tired, and could not stand running ahead of the dogs all the 
time as had to be done in this part of the country. Through Mr. 



70 CRUISE OF THE U. S REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Nelson I finally engaged a middle-aged man and wife, who had lived 
at Point Barrow several years. They had never been over the road 
we were to travel, but we could follow the coast and I wanted them 
more to help with the sleds than for any particular guidance. Nek- 
owrah, the man, while not a good traveler, was the best man around 
a camp I ever saw, and his judgment and foresight in these matters 
saved us much discomfort, if not suffering. It is characteristic of the 
natives of the extreme north that they have an excellent knowledge 
of how to prepare for and withstand the rigors of the climate. They 
seem to have no fears of it, but at the same time are fully alive to its 
dangers and menaces. 

We got off on the morning of March 6, with two sleds, and Mr. 
Nelson came along with one extra sled that was to haul dog feed a part 
of the way and give us a good start on the road. We made a good 
day's run out, but with our loaded teams it was late at night before we 
reached a little gully by Cape Dyer, where we could find wood for our 
camp. 

March 7. — It blew hard from the northeast to-day, and the ice was 
out from the shore along to Cape Lisburne. At some places we were 
compelled to make portages across the land and at others to cut roads 
through large drifts, that ran from high up on the mountains down 
into the water at an angle of 60 to 70 degrees, and, in consequence, 
progress was slow and tedious. We had hoped to round Cape Lis- 
burne, but arriving near there found the wind howling over the cliffs, 
seuding showers of small rocks and bowlders to the ice below. This 
was a notorious wind hole, summer and winter, and when Mr. Tilton 
came around it on his way from the north the wind took the piece of 
ice he was on out in the open Avater, and he was three days getting 
ashore. It was so black and thick about the cape that we dared not 
try it, and concluded to wait and see what the next day would bring. 

March 8. — The wind had gone down during the night so that this 
morning we got around to the north side of the cape to Wevuk, where 
two native families were camped, hunting seals and polar bears. Here 
we loaded up the extra sled with dog feed for the rest of our journej'. 
Upon telling one of the natives, Sakavaichik, what we wanted, he 
simply told us to go into his ice house and help ourselves. No price 
was asked; no stipulation made. He saw what our needs were, and, so 
far as he was able, or as much as he had, he would help us gladly. It 
is refreshing to meet such simple, true-hearted people in time of 
need, and to have dealings with them, even if they are only Eskimos. 

March 9. — We were off again in the morning, with loaded teams and 
well-fed dogs, for the long journey ahead of us. South of this point, 
at times during the winter, come periods of soft weather, that amount 
almost to a thaw, but from here north, rarely does the thermometer 
get as high as zero during that time. Everything is frozen hard and 
solid and remains in that condition iintil the summer. The northeast 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 71 

wind blows during the winter like a trade wind, and against this we 
had to fight our way most of the distance to Point Barrow. The snow 
is usually packed hard by the wind, and we were told we would find a 
good road for traveling. For a part of this day it was; but not long 
after leaving Cape Lisburne there came a fine, light snow fall, with 
not enough wind to blow it away, and, as the snow increased, our 
promised good road turned to a very bad one, and we were toiling 
again. However, Ave made nearly 30 miles during the day and felt 
quite satisfied. At night we camped at the side of a house that was 
built some years ago to develop the Corwin coal mine. There 
remained now only the floor and one side, the rest having been 
burned by natives traveling by. We did the same as they, and were 
glad to get some good dry wood. 

March 10. — We now began to strike soft snow and rough ice. In 
some places where the snow lay in hollows our sleds and dogs would 
sink almost out of sight; and at others, around the bluffs, we had to 
stop to cut off the corners of the rough ice, fill up the hollows, and 
make our own road. It was hard work, and it was not until about 3 
o'clock in the afternoon that we came to the mouth of the Pitmegea 
River, where we had planned to meet Lopp. We looked anxiously 
around for some sign of the deer herd, and saw sticking in the snow 
a cross made of two pieces of bread box, which our natives immedi- 
ately recognized as the work of a white man. Such it proved to be, 
and was the message Lopp had left for me according to our agreement. 
"Letter between boards" was what the sign read on the outside. 
Hastity tearing it apart, I found his note. He had arrived here on 
the 7th, having been six days crossing the mountains; the sled deer 
were nearly played out, but the herd was all right, and after one day's 
rest he had gone on the day before we arrived. The last great obsta- 
cle had been overcome; and though the cold, strong winds were hard 
to face it was now a straight drive over a level country, and it seemed 
we surely must arrive at Point Barrow before the month was out. 
Human nature could not accomplish more, than had been done, so, 
pushing on until nightfall, we went into camp, feeling we had things 
well in hand to go to the end of the journey. 

March 11. — Loading all our outfits and the dog feed on two sleds, I 
sent the extra sled back to Point Hope. It was all our dogs could do 
to drag their increased loads, and in the afternoon all the animals had 
t,o be put on one sled at a time to drag them through the deep drifts. 
We were making poor progress, but we were at least going ahead all 
the time, and that was something. I was anxious to catch up with 
the deer herd, but so long as they were ahead I did not care much. 
Eight miles was all we made after a most laborious day's work. 

March 12. — The storm still continued, and the smooth, level road 
was now covered with 6 inches of soft, fine snow, and though our prog- 
ress was still slow, yet it was more satisfactory than the day before. 



72 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

At night we came to the end of the mountains, where we could expect 
more wind and a better road, and we made our camp in the same place 
that Lopp had made his the night before. I felt confident of catch- 
ing him in a day or two; but our loads were heavy, and we could not 
afford to work our dogs too hard on the start and risk playing them 
out. 

March 13. — We got off early this morning and toiled along first on 
the ice and then on the land; but there seemed to be no improvement 
in the travel anj^where. The thermometer varied from 15 to 30° 
below zero, yet in an hour after breaking camp we were wet through 
with perspi ration, and had to be moving until Ave camped at night to 
keep from freezing, for it is almost fatal to stop with Avet clothes. 
Our bodies had b} r this time accommodated themselves to the atmos- 
phere. In the first part of our journey +10° seemed cold and sharp, 
but gradually a lower temperature suited us better, and now anything 
aboA r e —20° Avas altogether too warm to work in. jSToav Ave went about 
and Avorked with our bare hands with impunity, and our endeavors 
were to not AA r ear too many clothes, yet still have enough on to keep 
us warm in case Ave had to stop any length of time. This afternoon 
Ave passed the deer camp of the night before and gained some distance 
on them, and I felt it Avas Avell they Avere ahead and within reach at 
any time, and Ave could follow their tracks and not be far separated. 
If Ave got to Point Barrow at all, Ave must get there with something to 
eat, not only for ourselves, but for the people there, or the expedition 
would fail of its primary object — to feed the hungry. 

March 14-. — We now came to the lagoon that stretches along this 
coast for a distance of more than 100 miles, about 5 to 10 miles wide, 
and separated from the sea hj a narrow sand spit with four openings 
in the entire length. Three large rivers emptj" into the lagoon south 
of ley Cape. About 15 miles below Point Lay is the mouth of Kook- 
powruk, a large stream nearly 100 miles long. Its source is to the 
south of the Meade RiA^er Mountains, and it runs in a general north- 
easterly direction. The Kokolik, the shortest of the three, rises on 
the north side of the mountains, its mouth being just back of Point 
Lay. The largest and farthest north is the Ootookok. Its head 
waters are near a branch of the Noatok and almost directly south of 
Icy Cape, and its mouth is in the lagoon, about 15 miles south of 
the cape. Before the Avild deer were driven from this part of the 
country there Avere large settlements on these rivers, and the natives 
from Kotzebue Sound often made the passage up the Noatok and 
down the Ootookok in the spring, to trade with the people on the 
northern coast. 

Along the shores of the lagoon, near the mouths of the rivers, the 
land is marshy and Ioav, gradually rising to rolling hills until the 
Meade RiA r er Mountains are reached. The southern part of the 
lagoon is shallow and tilled with bars, but the northern half is Avider 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 73 

and has depths of 3 fathoms in places, and through the two openings 
from S to 10 feet can be carried. There are only a few small streams 
emptying into the northern half, and the land back of the lagoon is 
generally higher than along the southern half. The deer had to pass 
along the inshore of these lagoons for feed, and we followed their 
trail; but the fine, drifting snow which filled the air prevented our 
seeing any great distance ahead, and the wind, which had now full 
sweep, Avas biting and sharp. This night we camped on the inshore 
side of the lagoon, beside an old abandoned hut. It had been a beau- 
tiful day, as days go in the arctic region, and we had made good 
progress. I had intended going on during the night and catching up 
with Lopp and the deer herd; but the doctor's team was pretty well 
tired and did not work well, and besides we had heavy loads and not 
a very good trail. At the time I decided to camp the doctor was far 
behind, and I feared we might lose one another if we tried to keep 
on during the night. 

March 15. — Our dreams of catching up with the deer herd were gone 
this morning, for the wind had increased during the night, and by 
the time we awoke was blowing a gale, a howling blizzard from the 
north, filling the air with quantities of fine, hard snow that cut like a 
knife and hid everything from sight, even a few feet away. It was 
all we could do to keep the tent from blowing down, so we cut blocks 
of snow and built a barricade around our camp that kept off some of 
the wind, but still it Avas anything but comfortable, and as the old 
native hut was filled with hard, packed snow and we could not get 
in there, and we had to finally tear off its covering of wood to get 
enough to keep our fire going. I afterwards learned that during this 
blizzard Lopp was compelled to move his camp. How such things 
are done at such times none can tell but those who do them, and too 
often the experiences are so terrible that the desire is to forget about 
them when they have passed. When we caught up with the deer herd 
later, all the party showed the effects of their work this day, in the 
masses of black skin on their faces and noses where they had been 
frozen while shifting their camp. During this day the thermometer 
registered — 40° to — 45°, which is unusually low with so much wind. 

March 16. — Though the temperature moderated somewhat to-day, 
the wind blew as hard as ever, and we could only remain Avhere we 
were until the blizzard had spent its force. We had been Avarned con- 
cerning the blizzards on this coast, and I had heard many stories of 
the terrible times of parties who had been caught in these storms. 
One party I kneAv of had been storm-bound for forty-two days at a 
place but a few miles from AAdiere Ave now Avere, and were compelled 
to eat their dogs before the storm passed over. We had never allowed 
the darker side of the stories Ave had heard to trouble us, except so far 
as to make our preparations more complete, yet often during our long 
fight up this coast if one had dared let doAvu we might have been left 



74 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

somewhere on the road. The deer herd we knew could be but a few 
miles from us, yet it might just as well have been a hundred for all 
the good it did us in this blizzard. Our supply of dog feed had been 
growing less all the time, and during these days of idleness we were 
obliged to let the poor animals go unfed. We still had a longdistance 
to go, and natives, as a rule, do not feed their dogs except when work- 
ing, and we had now to do the same. A little "flour soup" was all 
they got for two days, and in consequence began to eat everything in 
the shape of lashing on the sleds, in fact, everything that was not 
wood or metal. Eskimo dogs are seldom or never housed; sometimes 
they crawl into the passage of the huts, but generally they remain 
out in the open, no matter what the temperature or the condition of 
the weather. In traveling, the tent or snow house i.-> securely closed 
at night lest they get inside and make short work of anything they 
can chew. Our clothes even were not safe, especially the boots, and 
everything eatable that could not be kept in the tent had to be raised 
high on racks or on blocks of snow to keep it beyond reach. 

The favorite way among the Eskimos of camping in this part of the 
country is to build snow houses at night. The wind packs the snow 
so hard that with a long knife it can be cut into blocks like building 
stone, and in a short time a small strong house can be constructed 
with these, the chinks being stopped up with loose snow, and a large 
block used as a door to close the opening, making the place nearly air- 
tight. Soon the warmth of the bodies of three or four people, together 
with the heat from a native seal-oil lamp or kerosene-oil stove, will 
raise the temperature of the place so that it is fairly comfortable, and 
one can even remove some of his clothing. On account of the diffi- 
culties of construction, a snow house can not be so large as a tent, and 
the oil for the stove adds greatly to the weight to be carried; but, when 
traveling back from the coast, where there is no wood, snow houses 
are the necessity of circumstances. As such they are made the best 
of, and whatever discomforts they entail are passed off as unavoidable 
and not thought of. A philosophical common sense is a great help in 
living in the arctic regions, as elsewhere. If you are subjected to 
miserable discomforts, or even if you suffer, it must be regarded as all 
right and simply a part of the life, and like sailors, you must never 
dwell too much on the dangers or suffering, lest others question your 
courage. 

March 17. — It had stormed so hard during the night that we were 
nearly buried in the drifts that had formed and we had to dig ourselves 
out in the morning. Our sleds this morning were completely buried, 
and dog harness, shovels, axes, and the like had to be dug out of the 
drifts. In camping one must be careful of the few belongings and 
camp tools, for anything left outside at night is sure to be covered over 
in the morning if it is bloAving, and anything that has to be left out must 
be stuck up in the snow or packed in the sleds if you want to see it 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 75 

again. T\ r e had. now been traveling so long that our camping and 
packing the sleds had been reduced to a system. There Avere four of 
us and each had his own part of the work to do. The doctor was the 
cook and looked out for the stove and the food. I attended to the 
sleds and the tent. The native woman was the doctor's assistant and 
besides looked after our clothes, while her husband Nekowrah helped 
me and did the heavj- work. On coming to our camping place, 
Nekowrah and I would get out the tent and pitch it. This done, the 
doctor would set up his stove, while Nekowrah went on a hunt for 
wood, and I would bank up the snow around the sides to keep the wind 
out and secure the hut generally. Then the sleds were unpacked and 
all our sleeping gear, food, and cooking utensils were passed in to 
Shucungunga, who arranged them inside. By the time the fire was 
started in the stoA r e, the dogs were unharnessed, and the sleds put 
bej^ond their reach. This would all take from one-half to three- 
quarters of an hour, and in that time the tent would be good and 
warin and we could go inside and change our clothes. The wet ones 
were passed over to Shucungunga for drying, who stretched a line 
along the ridgepole and hung up the clothes to catch all the warm air 
possible. 

It was not long before supper was ready, and it generally mattered 
little what it was, so long as there was enough, for by this time Ave 
were about like the dogs, hungry enough to eat anything that could 
be chewed. Usually the supper consisted of bacon and beans, followed 
by "slapjacks" (cakes made of flour and AA^ater and fried), and all the 
tea we could drink, generally not less than a quart. Nekowrah had in 
the meantime got together enough wood for the night and morning, 
and after supper and a smoke it Avas time to feed the dogs. The 
frozen seal meat Avas first chopped into small pieces, and NekoAvrah 
and myself, armed Avith clubs, would undertake to see that all the 
dogs fared alike. It Avas a task, for I know of nothing so raA^enous as 
a hard- worked Eskimo dog, and with a pack of fifteen or twenty ani- 
mals it took all of our time and attention to see that the larger dogs 
did not monopolize all the food. If a piece of meat was too large for 
a dog to swallow immediately, another dog would haA^e it out of his 
mouth and a general fight ensue, and then a liberal use of the clubs 
would be necessary to produce harmony in the pack. Dogs should be 
fed once a day, and best at night, after they haA r e rested a Avhile from 
their Avork. It is bad to feed them much in the morning or to feed 
them during the day, as they become heaA^y and loggy, and do not 
work so well as on an empty stomach. The dogs being fed, there AA^as 
nothing else to do but to Avrite up our diaries and make plans for the 
following day. 

Shixcungunga had been attending to our clothes, turning them to 
see that they were thoroughly dry and looking for rips and tears, for 
after each day's work some mending was generally needed, and oft- 



76 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

times the fire was kept going well into the night to be sure everything 
was dry for the morning. Sleeping bags were now in order and all 
hands would be ready to turn in. If the weather was very cold, I 
slept in a light artegge, but ordinarily I would remove my outer cloth- 
ing and turn in my bag in that way. The natives, however, no mat- 
ter what the temperature, removed all their clothes after getting in 
their bag, and slept with only the protection of the skin bag, and this 
of course had a large opening. I was not sufficiently inured to the 
cold to stand this, for we always slept without fire, and it was nearly 
as cold inside as outside the tent. After getting in my bag seldom 
did I ever sleep cold, and less seldom do I remember being wakeful 
during the night. In the morning Nekowrah or the doctor would be 
up by 5 o'clock and have the fire started and the breakfast under way, 
which was not different from the supper — simply something to eat. 

It is always well before starting in the morning to take as much tea 
and water as one can hold, to avoid as much as possible a thirst dur- 
ing the day. It is impossible to get water during the day without 
stopping to build a fire and melt snow, unless one carries a flask 
inside the clothing, and this stopping uses up time. Snow is bad 
for the mouth and soon makes it sore, besides not being sufficient 
to quench the thirst except for the minute. The worst feature of eat- 
ing snow is that if one gives way to the temptation there is no stop- 
ping for the rest of the da} r , for, while it serves to quench the thirst 
for the time being, it seems to really increase it in the long run, and 
shortly after taking some snow one is more thirsty than ever. I 
found that by drinking a quart of tea in the morning I seldom was 
thirst}'' until night, and had no great desire to drink unless a halt was 
made in the middle of the day to rest and make a fire for tea. 

Breakfast being over, the sleds were gotten out and packed, reserv- 
ing the tent to the last, so as to be handy at night. The grub box, with 
a little food inside, and a camp kettle and axe were placed on the sled 
where they could easily be gotten at in case a slop was made during 
the day. The sleds were then lashed, the dogs caught and har- 
nessed, and we were ready to start. If in the middle of the day wood 
could be had, and other circumstances would permit, a stop was made 
to make a fire, melt snow, and have a lunch of tea and crackers. 
Sometimes, however, circumstances would not permit us to stop, and 
we kept on the entire day without a break. At first I was more loath 
to stop than later, but after more experience I found that the hour 
spent in getting our fire and a bite to eat was well spent, for not only 
were we refreshed and better able to continue in the afternoon, but 
the dogs also seemed to be benefited by the short rest and traveled 
all the better for it. 

On the morning of March 17 we found the dogs buried in the 
drift, with only their noses sticking out. They were all right, how- 
ever, and anxious to be going. We worked our way along and in 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 77 

the afternoon passed two huts on the inner shore of the lagoon, the 
people from which came out to meet us and delivered a note from 
Lopp. lie had passed there only a short time before, and we could 
now see him ahead, like a small black cloud sweeping over the sea of 
intense white snow. The natives who occupied these huts were most 
miserably poor. The wild caribou had long before left this part of 
the country, and these were now the only ones left of a once numerous 
and prosperous people. Those who had not died had gone to other 
parts of the country for better hunting grounds. These two families 
were now living on a store of bad walrus meat and the carcass of a 
whale that had drifted ashore there the previous fall. We continued 
on until dark, then making a camp I lightened my sled and went on 
after the herd. It was a long chase, for Lopp was traveling late to 
make up for the time they had lost in the blizzard, and it was not until 
8 in the evening that I caught up with them. The herd was going 
along in good condition, but the sled deer were not. While the feed 
along this portion of the route Avas poor, enough was found to keep 
life in the herd. All the boys showed marks of the blizzard of the 
loth, but there had been no accidents bej r ond the freezing of their 
faces. 

March 18. — Last night three wolves got into the herd and killed one 
deer before they were discovered and driven off. This is the first 
time we have encountered wolves or seen signs of them. From the 
carcass I replenished my stock of dog feed and went back to our camp 
on the sand spit, and with the doctor followed along after the herd and 
caught up Avith it again at night. The weather seemed to improve 
and we Avere going along at a very good rate, and must have traveled 
20 miles, Avhich AA r as a good day's journey for our condition and for 
this part of the country. 

March 19. — We thought our blizzards were about done Avith, but 
soon found that they were almost of daily occurrence and Ave must 
make the best of them, and the most of Avhat time Ave could travel in 
between. As usual, Ave Avere off this morning as soon as it Avas light, 
but after going half a day the AAind breezed up from the northeast 
and the siioav began to fly, blinding us so there Avas no use trying to 
face it, and Ave had to camp where we were. We had to dig a hole in 
the snow and build a barricade around it before Ave could pitch our 
tent in safety. The wind lasted the rest of the day and night and 
until noon of the 20th, when it suddenly let go, and we were able to 
make half a day's travel before night again shut in, and, though it 
was not as much as could be desired, it all counted in the right direc- 
tion. The sand spits Ave re so low and so hard to folloAv we dared not 
go on at night. 

March 21. — More siioav and very thick this morning, but Ave made 
fair travel and soon passed the "Thetis beacon," south of Icy Cape. 
On the back of this I left a note for Lopp and then Avent on to an old 



78 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

abandoned house just north of Blossom Shoals, where we had planned 
to meet and make our final arrangements before going the last stretch 
to Point Barrow. We had been looking for this beacon the last two 
da} 7 s, and almost every twig or stick that stuck up through the snow 
stood out against the extreme whiteness of the surrounding country 
and seemed exaggerated into the size of a telegraph pole at least. 
This is a striking feature of the uncertain light of a snowy day or a 
moonlight night. Every little ridge or unevenness in the snow seems 
at first a hill or mountain in your path, and it is not until 3011 get 
very close to the rise that you are finally convinced of your error. It 
snowed hard during the night after we had reached the old house and 
all the next day, and there was no finding anyone, for, as it turned 
out, Lopp had passed up the lagoon on the afternoon of the 22d, within 
half a mile of our camp, and was unable to find it. 

March 23. — It was clear this morning, and as I was doubtful of the 
position of the herd I set out early to the southward to look them up. 
I had not gone far, however, before I came across their trail leading 
up the lagoon and to the northward. . So I returned to the camp, 
where we packed our sleds as quickly as possible and were off after 
them. A mile or so up the beach we found where thej r had come in 
on the sand spit and buried some dog feed for us, for our supply of 
seal meat was quite low by this time and we needed this additional 
supply to cany us to Point Barrow, which was still about 140 miles 
distant. Although it had been snowing so much of late, this part of 
the sand spit was nearly bare. Being higher than the ice on the 
lagoon or on the sea, the wind had swept it clean and it had now only 
a light covering of ice that had formed in the fall. Over this was good 
traveling and we were not long in picking up the herd ahead. Here 
Lopp and I divided our stores of bread and tea and parted companj r 
for the last time before reaching our destination. 

Wolves had been following them for the last few days and a strict 
watch had to be kept both day and night. There had been no wolves 
seen during the southern part of our trip, but we were now apprehen- 
sive of trouble, for Ave knew they were to be found in this region, 
though how numerous we could not say. A little care had kept them 
off thus far, but after this night they seemed to leave of their own 
accord. As the herd passed to the inshore of the lagoon for feed and 
a camp, we on the beach herd shots and saw what we supposed to be 
a band of wolves running off, but which afterwards turned out to be 
some wild deer, or caribou, that had almost gotten into the herd before 
discovering their mistake. They soon took off, and though the boys 
were after them as quickly as possible, they were not able to shoot any. 

From the Siberian deer people I have heard stories of how the wild 
deer sometimes mingle with the herds of domestic deer in that coun- 
try, and that the offspring resulting are longer limbed and have more 
stamina than the urdinaiy domestic animal, and these half-breed deer 




THE WHALER BELVEDERE AT POINT FRANKLIN. 




NATIVE HUT, SNOW ENTRANCE. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 79 

are very much prized by the people. Such cases are very rare, how- 
ever, and none has occurred in Alaska, for the wild deer have not been 
in the same part of the country as the domestic ones. We had our 
usual snowstorm at night and it lasted until the middle of the follow- 
ing day. the 24th. We traveled in the afternoon, passed the native 
village of Kilimantowruk, which was deserted, the people all being 
off in the interior deer hunting, and camped that night on. the south 
shore of Wainwright Inlet. It was so late before the storm cleared 
away that the deer did not start to-day and we left them quite a 
distance behind. 

March 25. — We were off early this morning and in good spirits. We 
had now not more than 100 miles to go and pushed on until night to 
make the native village of Sedaro, on Point Belcher. Here we met 
John Grubin, in the employ of the whaling station at Point Barrow, 
who had just come from that place. He reported everything going 
along all right when he left; the hunting in the spring had been good 
and yielded enough meat to keep the men for the present; but the men 
in the camp were growing restless and had run down in health from 
their miserable way of living. The vessels Avere all right so far and 
no danger Avas apprehended until the breaking up of the ice in the 
summer. I sent Grubin to the southward with his sled to find Lopp 
and help him along if it Avas necessary, and on the 26th Ave Avent on to 
the north. Pushing up the coast we crossed oA^er the large lagoon back 
of the Sea Horse. Islands about noon and raised the Belvedere, the first 
of the A*essels we were sent to aid. She was the ship in company Avith 
the Orca and the Jessie H. Freeman Avhen the former was crushed and 
the latter abandoned about 10 miles beloAv here on September 22, 1897. 
At that time open Avater Avas seen to the southward, but the ice Avas 
coming in and it Avas all the Belvedere could do, after getting the creAA r s 
of the other two A 7 essels on board, to Avork into a comparatively safe 
place behind Point Franklin. Here the A^essel Avas housed in and 
banked up outside AA"ith snow, and at the time we reached her A'ery 
little was visible aboA r e the drift but her spars and rigging. We drew 
up alongside about 4 p. m. , and going aboard announced ourselves and 
our mission, btrt it was some time before the first astonishment and 
ineredulousness could Avear off and a welcome be extended to us. 

Captain Millard was a very sick man and looked as if he Avould 
hardly survive the winter. There Avere 30 meu on board the A'essel 
at that time, 15 of her ereAA r having been sent to Point Barrow, together 
Avith the creAA's of the Orca and Freeman, in October, 1897. ProA'i- 
sions were very short, and but tAvo small meals a day Avas the allow- 
ance. They Avere Avholly dependent upon hunting for meat, and thus 
far had obtained about 3,000 pounds of deer meat and fish, but the 
hunting season Avas drawing to a close, and nearly five months had to 
be provided for before help could reach them from the outside. Our 
arrival Avas therefore a great relief, and there AA T as now little feav of 



80 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

the outcome. The crews of the Freeman and Orca were kept on 
board the Belvedere two weeks before the situation was generally 
known and then sent to Point Barrow. A small portion of the pro- 
visions were recovered later from the wreck of the Orca, but they 
hardly more than made up for what was drawn from the stores of the 
Belvedere to keep the increased number of men temporarily on board. 

There had been no accidents to the vessel, and all precautions had 
been taken. A house had been built on the sand beach, and all the 
provisions and coal stored there, not more than one month's supply 
being taken on board at a time. A line was stretched from the vessel 
to the shore, a distance of about a mile, in case the vessel should 
have to be abandoned in the night or during a thick snowstorm, and 
night and day an armed guard was maintained over the provisions 
ashore. In November last a Siberian Eskimo, one of the crew of the 
Orca, had wandered off to go to his home in Siberia and was never 
heard of again. A man named Kelly, Avater tender of the Orca, who 
had been retained on board the Belvedere because he Avas not able 
to traA r el to Point Barrow, was a pitiable object from syphilis. He 
applied to Surgeon Call for treatment, but was beyond help, and a 
few daj^s after Ave left, his body Avas found in the stern hole, where it 
was thought he had jumped to end his misery. There had been one 
case of scurvy on board during the Avinter, but having receiA^ed 
proper atteution the man Avas iioav nearly Avell. 

There Avas no need of our stopping here, for they Avere in no especial 
need at present; so the next day, March 27, Ave left for Point Barrow. 
Our usual blizzard came up, and Ave Avere obliged to camp about 10 
miles from the ship. Pushing on the next day, Ave hoped to reach our 
destination, but after traveling about 35 miles Ave camped at Ignavik, 
a small natiA^e Adllage, and decided to wait until morning before sur- 
prising the people at the point. Our dogs Avere now very tired, and 
so AA r ere Ave, and the 35 miles Ave had traA'eled this day represented 
the limit of our endurance. We had come to Avithin 15 miles of our 
journey's end Avithout accident, and there Avas nothing to be gained 
by risking traveling at night. 

We were so near our journey's end noAvthat Ave could afford to look 
back with a measure of satisfaction. On starting out it Avas hardly 
thought or contemplated that Ave could reach Point Barrow before 
April, and, although I set that limit myself and stuck to it, there were 
many times, when, considering the difficulties and dangers, I had mis- 
givings as to our being able to arrive within the limited time. Fol- 
loAving the windings of the coast, as Ave had come, Ave had traveled 
something in the neighborhood of 1,509 miles or more. We had 
lived on the country, as Ave were directed, and had drawn from it all 
our means of traA r el, except a part of our camp gear and the small 
store Ave brought from the ship. The inoA'einents of the reindeer 
herd had far exceeded our expectations and Avere due to the extraor- 




OLD GOVERNMENT REFUGE STATION, POINT BARROW. 




MR. C. D. BROWER'S HOUSE AT POINT BARROW. 
The most northern habitation of a white man in Alaska. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 81 

dinary work of Mr. Lopp and Ms "boys." Our plans to overcome 
the many obstacles and difficulties bad been carried out almost 
exactly as we had laid them down. Loss of life or serious accident, 
which were always imminent, had been averted by extreme care, 
and we were now within 15 miles of our destination and in good con- 
dition and ready to take up the control of the situation at Point Bar- 
row, as we had been directed. 

March 29 was a beautiful, clear morning, cold and sharp, but with 
a cloudless sky and little or no wind, and, when we drew up at the 
settlement at Point Barrow it seemed as if nature was trying to make 
amends at last for the hard trial she had given us from Point Hope 
up the coast. Passing rapidly by the village, and hy the old shanty 
where the men were quartered, we drew up at the house of the Cape 
S my the Whaling and Trading Company, of which Mr. C. D. B rower 
was manager. The camp was not really at Point Barrow, but at Cape 
Smythe, about 9 miles below. Point Barrow itself is a low, narrow 
sand spit, Avith the native village of Nuwuk at the extreme end of the 
point. At Cape Smythe is another large village, Ootkieawie, and as 
the land is higher than farther north and good water is found the 
whaling stations established by the white men were located there. It 
is all known as Point Barrow to the outside world, and the distinction 
is only local. All the population came out to see us go by and won- 
dered what strange outfit it was, and when we greeted Mr. Brower 
and some of the officers of the wrecked vessels, whom we knew, they 
were stunned, and it was some time before they could realize that we 
were flesh and blood. Some looked off to the south to see if there 
was not a ship in sight, and others wanted to knoAv if we had 
come up in a balloon. Though they had realized their dangerous sit- 
uation last fall and had sent out Mr. Tilton and Mr. Walker for aid 
with the first opening of the ice, they had not thought it possible for 
anyone to reach them in the winter, and had not we and our positions 
been so well known, I think they would have doubted that we really 
did come in from the outside world. 

All was excitement and relief in camp, and there was work to be 
done immediately. Engaging a runner, the mail for the schooner 
Rosario and the steamers Neivport, Fearless, and Jeanie was sent to 
them, together with a letter to each one of their masters, telling them 
of our arrival and the purpose of the expedition, and asking of them 
their condition and prospects, so we could work intelligently for the 
best interests of all. Before I had gotten fairly in place there came 
a delegation of men requesting me to immediately look into their 
condition, which they thought should be remedied. Consulting with 
Mr. Brower, Captains Sherman and Porter, and E. A. Mcllhenny and 
Dr. Marsh, I learned there had been no great suffering and that for 
the present there was no great need. Provisions were short, very 
short ; and only by the strictest economy and hard work had they been 



82 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

enabled to get along so far. They had figured as well as possible on 
the end of the season, but there was anxiety as to how it would end. 
There was flour enough now on hand to last into the month of August; 
meat they hoped also to have for the same period, but that was 
dependent upon the success of the hunters and what could be hauled 
in. The different vessels were practically in the same position and 
had about the same quantity of food, for, as far as practicable, an 
equal distribution had been made all around. Each vessel had a dog 
team, and these were constantly going from one to another, and coming 
to Point Barrow to Brower's to haul supplies both ways, besides going 
back iuto the interior to the hunters to bring in the game and the 
fish caught. This work had been going on since the vessels were 
first frozen in, and only by extraordinary labor had they been able to 
keep the men alive. All the supplies that were now being issued to 
the men in camp, and that had been secured for them until August, 
belonged to Mr. Brower, except some of the beef and pork, which had 
been placed in the old refuge station in the summer of 18S9, and from 
the constant freezing and thawing of years had greatly deteriorated 
and now contained little nutriment. Four days in the week 1 pound 
of this was issued; two days, one-half pound of frozen deer meat, and 
one day, one-half pound of frozen fish. One-quarter pound of beans 
was issued on Sundays. This, with 1 pound of flour per day and a 
small alloAvance of coffee in the morning and tea at night, constituted 
the ration. A few ounces of sugar and a few ounces of potatoes saved 
from the Navarch were issued each week as long as they lasted. 

I first gave iny attention to the quarters of the men in camp. At 
present there were 78 in the old house mentioned, and the morning 
after we arrived Surgeon Call and myself inspected the place and the 
condition of the men. They wei*e all in a horrible state. The house 
belonged to the Pacific Steam Whaling Company, and formerly was 
used as a whaling station, but was abandoned as such in the summer 
of 189G. When the men were first sent here from the Belvedere it 
Avas proposed that they all be quartered in the old refuge station, also 
owned by the Pacific Steam Whaling Company, but now occupied by 
Mr. E. A. Mcllhenny with three assistants. This house had been 
designed to accommodate 100 men in an emergency, and this was 
about the number to be provided for, but Mr. Mcllhenny refused to 
allow anyone but the officers in his house, and as these represented 
but a small part of the whole number, the only other place that would 
take the remainder for the winter was this old "Kelly" house, as it 
was known. Even then it was in a bad condition . The roof was opeu in 
places, and one end was nearly out; but taking what lumber lie had, 
Mr. Brower, with the assistance of some of the men, patched it up, 
and inside fitted berths three deep on the walls and each berth to hold 
three men. A small cooking stove was put in the center. For a time a 
small heating stove was also used, and the walls were banked outside 




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PRESBYTERIAN MISSION AT POINT BARROW. 




NATIVE HOUSES AT POINT BARROW VILLAGE. 



CRUISE OF THE IT. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 83 

with snow. One window gave a feeble light, and there was little or 
no ventilation except through the door and cracks. From seventy- 
five to eighty men occupied the place, which was about 22 by 55 feet 
on the outside, but taking out the berths and stoves left scai-cely 
enough room inside for them all to stand up. 

All the cooking, except baking the bread, was done on the one small 
stove. It was only boiling meat and enough water for tea or coffee, but 
the steam generated gathered in frost overhead and on the sides, and 
the drippings from this kept the floors and walls continually wet and 
filthy. Lower down on the walls ice had formed 3 or 4 inches thick, 
and the drippings and meltings ran down over this into the berths, 
and even what little bedclothes the men had were never dry. In the 
endeavor to keep warm some of the men had boxed in their berths, 
and in these boxes kept improvised seal-oil lamps burning. The 
soot and smoke from these lamps covered everything, their clothes 
and bodies, with a. black, greasy coating, so they were scarcely rec- 
ognizable as white men. Some hardly left their berths at all, and all 
were in such a low, demoralized condition that only the cold weather 
prevented a serious outbreak of sickness. Filth and vermin were 
every where, and those inclined to keep clean and live decently could 
not accomplish it in such a place and under such conditions. 

The masters of the two crews had done nothing for them in any 
way, either in seeing they Avere provided with food and quarters, or 
in exercising necessary control. This might have been done if prop- 
erly started at first, but after the neglect was apparent the men 
refused to recognize any authority of the masters or officers over 
them, and Mr. B rower and Mr. Mcllhenny were compelled to step in 
and assume charge. Later, owing to some trouble, the authority used 
was that of Mr. Brower only. It was always a question with so 
many men to handle how much control could be enforced, and it never 
went further than guarding against depredations and lawlessness. 
Matters of personal care, etc., Avere left to the men themselves. 

Dr. H. R. Marsh had attended the sick, and so far there had been 
no deaths, but Surgeon Call reported four cases of scurvy and all 
hands more or less affected. They were much debilitated and run 
down, and if something was not done quickly the weaker ones would 
soon die from general debility, and serious sickness attack all. We 
had no antiscorbutics but the fresh meat we brought with us, but I 
determined that changes must be made at once, the men moved from 
their present quarters, their clothes and bodies cleaned, and proper 
rules of discipline, health, and exercise enforced. Though the old 
refuge station would take them all, it was not advisable in their 
present state to keep them together, for such a number would soon 
accumulate filth again. From Mr. Brower I obtained an old store- 
house that was tight and well built, and fitted it with berths for 28 
men. The native school at the house of the Presbyterian Mission 



84 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

was not now in session, and Dr. II. R. Marsh gave me the use of the 
schoolroom. In this quarters were fitted for 25 more, and the remain- 
ing- 25 were added to the 16 already in the old refuge station, making 
41 in all there. These quarters were all light, dry, and warm, and 
could easily be inspected. 

Mr. Lopp arrived by dog team on the 30th, having left the deer 
herd about 20 miles below, at Sinra, which we had decided on for its 
present location if proper feed could be found there. It was away 
from the native settlements, and away from all danger of marauding 
of the white men were they so disposed. "When the herd arrived in 
good condition and a good and sufficient supply of food was assured, 
it was a great relief, and the strain and anxiety about the final out- 
come of the situation under which everybody had been all winter was 
removed. In coming from Cape Prince of "Wales the deer had traveled 
over 700 miles in fiftj r -five days, counting all the delays from 
storms and preparations, and Artisarlook's herd had come 100 miles 
farther, from Point Rodney. "We were all grateful to Mr. Lopp and 
the "boys" for what the} r had done, and I can not speak too highly 
of the skill, courage, and persistent, untiring work the}" showed from 
the beginning to the end of that long journey. 

"We started with 448 in all, including the 7 Lieutenant Bertholf 
brought to Kotzebue Sound, and we arrived at Point Barrow with 382. 
The difference represents what we had to kill for food for ourselves, 
and what were killed by overwork and by dogs and wolves, 32 in all; 
and the 34 which strayed off in a blizzard near Cape Kruzenstern, 
but were afterwards recovered and driven to Lieutenant Bertholf at 
Point Hope. Considering the hurried time, the unknown and untried 
regions, and all the dangers incident to such travel and work, I con- 
sider the drive in every way a marked success. I selected Artisarlook 
and Utenua to remain behind and care for the herd, and made arrange- 
ments for the return of Mr. Lopp and the others to their homes, as I 
had promised them on engagement. 

On account of the scarcity of food it was not advisable to keep any 
more to be fed at Point Barrow than absolutely necessary; so, after 
they had a few days' rest, I turned over to Mr. Lopp the dog teams 
which had brought Surgeon Call and myself, and they left, bound 
south, April 4. They had a small, light outfit, just enough to last 
them to the Pitmagea River, where Lieutenant Bertholf was to have 
supplies cached. Having heard from the vessels to the east of Point 
Barrow, I also sent the mail with Mr. Lopp and a report to you of the 
general situation. I gave Mr. Lopp instructions to forward the mail 
from Cape Prince of "Wales to St. Michael, wishing some news of our 
arrival and the condition of affairs to be at that point, beyond all 
doubt, when the first steamers should arrive in the spring. 

The return journey of Mr. Lopp was made in extraordinarily good 
time. Starting from Point Barrow April 4, he arrived at Cape Prince 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 85 

of Wales May 5, though only twenty-two actual traveling days on the 
road. They were favored by good weather, a northeast wind at their 
backs, but had to face the sun, which was. now high and shining 
most of the day and night. Crossing Kotzebue Sound, they were all 
severely afflicted with snow- blindness and compelled to lie over 
several days before they could see to go on. In this part of the 
country their trip has never been equaled. 

Having settled the men in their new quarters, I directed an increase 
of the fresh-meat ration to 2£ pounds per week. This much was not 
on hand, but it was necessary, as we had no antiscorbutics and must 
rety on flesh meat to stamp out the scurvy, and I could now fill any 
lack from the herd. I next began a thorough overhauling of the 
clothes of the men. The bedding was gotten out and aired, and such 
of it as could be cleaned was kept, but the rest of it had to be thrown 
away. All the heavy deerskins that could be found, and all that 
could be brought in from the hunters, were gathered and distributed 
to those most needing them. It was impossible to get enough at any 
time to propeiiy provide all the men, and only the good, warm quar- 
ters they now had, prevented suffering. Personal clothing went 
through the same general overhauling, and it was fully as bad as the 
bedding. Only a few of those inclined to care for themselves had 
anything decent, and I was compelled to make a general search and 
take up collection of everything in the nature of clothing that could be 
found or spared from Mr. B rower's station and from the natives. 

When it became generally known what I wanted, the natives began 
bringing to me a few odds and ends of woolen clothing they had 
stowed away for summer use, and in a short time they seemed to vie 
with one another in the number of articles of all kinds, furs as well, 
that they could give to clothe the "Kablonas" — i. e., white men. The 
native contributions kept up during all the remaining time we Avere 
at Point Barrow. Boots and boot soles Avere hardest to obtain, and it 
Avas almost impossible to proA'ide enough to keep the men's feet dry. 
Toward the last of our stay these commanded fabulous prices Avhen 
they could be obtained at all. Soap Avas the next consideration, and 
I immediately increased the allowance of this to 1 pound a month, 
depending upon making later Avhat we lacked of this amount. I also 
required and saw that it was used to good effect on the persons and 
clothing of all. Cleanliness Avas an absolute necessity, but it Avas 
had with difficult}', for all water must be melted from ice, and we had 
not the stoA r es and facilities for doing this to any extent. It Avas dif- 
ficult at first to get some of the men to make any effort to clean them- 
selves; but later, after the majority saw they had the means to do it, 
and could, they united to compel the others and were quick to report 
any great neglect. It Avas not long before the general appearance of 
all Avas greatly improved. I instituted a system of daily inspection 
of the quarters and clothing by Surgeon Call and mj^self, and kept it 



86 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

up until the men were finally put aboard the Bear; and they were 
never allowed to lapse from the condition of order, discipline, good 
health, and cleanliness we instituted. Surgeon Call attended to the 
health of everybody, natives as well as whites, and his services were 
in constant demand. The scurvy patients were soon well, and there 
was no serious illness nor any accidents to the men after once getting 
them out of their previous bad state. 

There was only coal enough on hand to do the cooking, and it was 
necessary to have fuel for the new quarters I had provided. To obtain 
driftwood for this was out of the question iu the present condition of 
the men, and with the difficulty of providing them with clothing and 
foot gear. An attempt had been made in the fall to obtain some, but 
it failed, and I determined to use the old house I had moved the men 
out of, for fuel. It was only a mass of filth and could never be used 
again for quarters, and I tore it down and stored the wood for our 
stoves. Happily it kept us going until the warmer weather came and 
we could do without fires to a great extent. The mess arrangements 
were trying. There were but two stoves, and on these the cooking for 
about 130 people had to be done. By patience and hard work it was 
arranged satisfactorily, so that everything began to move smoothly. 
After it was once established there was little friction, and everything 
settled into one groove and kept into it. 

For good order, to prevent complication and trouble, as well as to 
protect the natives, I required the men to keep away from the village as 
much as possible, and saw to it that the}* kept out of the houses there. 
I gave the natives to understand that they must not harbor the men 
in any way, and that they could expect the same treatment and pro- 
tection from me that the white men received. The native supply of 
food was not only short, but had been greatly curtailed to keep the 
white men, as everything in the nature of "white men's" food had 
been kept from the natives, and their stock of walrus, whale, and 
seal meat had also been largely drawn on from sympathy, so there 
was hunger in many cases in the villages. Later on, in serious cases 
of illness among the natives, better food had to be provided for these 
patients, and they were fed from Mr. Brower's house on Surgeon Call's 
order. 

After getting the camp in satisfactory order I turned my attention 
to the outlying vessels. The Belvedere we had already visited. 

The schooner Rosario was 9 miles away at Point Barrow. Her 
crew was small, and fortunately she had a good supply of provisions 
when frozen in, and was able to cany her crew along without much 
assistance. She had divided her store of salt meat with the vessels 
to the east of Point Barrow, and was now compelled, like the rest, to 
depend upon hunting. By great labor they had been able to keep 
the crew going, but for the last month and a half I supplied them 
with meat from the herd. Fuel was most needed here, and every 




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WHALER ROSARIO BEFORE SHE WAS CRUSHED. POINT BARROW. 




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WHALERS NEWPORT AND FEARLESS IN THE ICE EAST OF POINT BARROW. 




WHALER JEANIE IN THE ICE. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 87 

expedient of getting wood was resorted to. Coal had to be hauled 
from the steamers Newport and Fearless, a distance of 40 miles, at 
such times as the teams could be spared from hauling meat. It was 
impossible to keep enough on hand in this way, and resort was had 
to the remains of an old wreck close at hand. Digging away the snow 
and ice the timbers were uncovered and blasted out. Not a great 
amount could be obtained, but it Avas something, and helped out the 
coal. 

The steamers Newport and Fearless were off Pitt Point, about 40 
miles east of Point Barrow. They each had a crew of 40 men, and 
when first closed in had barely enough provisions to last through the 
month of January. Their situation in this respect was so desperate 
that rigid order and economy had to be enforced immediately, and by 
great labor and sacrifices, and by Mr. Brower's excellent assistance, 
enough provisions were had from time to time to cany them along, 
though they were greatly dependent on the hunting — more so than at 
any other point. The very fact of their situation being so much 
worse than the others made the discipline here more severe, and in 
consequence better order and even better contentment prevailed than 
elsewhere. 

The steamer Jeanie was off Point Ellice, about 40 miles east of the 
Newport and Fearless, and from all accounts was in the most danger- 
ous position, as regards safety of the vessel, of any of the fleet. She was 
4 miles from the land, and there seemed grave danger when the ice 
should break up in the summer. She had been fairly well provided 
when the winter set in, but had to share some of her stores with the 
other vessels. As with the other vessels, she was now dependent upon 
the hunters for meat, and being so far away had hard work keeping 
up the supply. Her crew, from all accounts, was in a bad state of dis- 
cipline and discontent. I attributed this more to their being away 
from all travel, and being confined on the vessel all the long winter 
with little to do and almost nothing of outside interest. 

Sleds were constantly going and coming from all the vessels, and I 
was thus in communication with the masters and advised of their 
condition. For the present they were going along as well as could be 
expected and no changes were necessary until I could visit them and 
learn the particulars to provide for the final distribution of food that 
would be necessary to carry all through on a satisfactory basis until 
your arrival. 

I was prepared to visit these vessels April 12, when I had a severe 
attack of tonsilitis and had to lay over for some more favorable time. 

April 18 Capt. George B. Leavitt, of the Newport, arrived at the 
station, and from him I received all the information in regard to their 
condition and prepared to leave Avith him on his return. 

The bark Wanderer, which was one of the fleet that left Herschel 
Island with the others, had not been seen nor heard of since Septem- 



88 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

ber 8, 1S97. She was then about 100 miles west of Herschel Island, 
and from all the information I could gather, and in the opinions of 
the masters of the steamers, she could not, on account of the ice, 
have come any farther west. It was supposed, and I thought the same, 
that either she had returned to Herschel Island, where the steamer 
Mary D. Hume was wintering with two years' stores on board, or 
that at least she was in communication with that place, for nothing 
had been heard of her crew at this end. 

Herschel Island is 400 miles from Point Barrow, and, as these two 
points were the only places where her crew could obtain supplies, they 
must make for one or the other. As they had not come to Point Bar- 
row it was supposed they were nearer Herschel Island when finally 
beset by the ice and had gone back there. It was known she had only 
a small store of provisions, and as she was one of the vessels the expe- 
dition was sent to relieve I was anxious to fix her whereabouts beyond 
question and was on the point of organizing a search for her when a 
sled arrived at Point Barrow, April 22, from Herschel Island, bringing 
the welcome news that the Wanderer, immediately on being left by 
the other vessels, September 8, 1897, had returned to Herschel Island 
and her crew were wintering on the Mary D. Hume's supplies. 

The sled was in charge of a boat steerer from the Hume and had 
left that vessel February 25. The} r had a very severe trip along an 
almost deserted coast and at times were compelled to go inland from 
the coast to hunt for food for themselves and dogs, and when they 
arrived at the Jeanie were in very bad straits. The sled also brought 
news that Mr. Walker, who had left Point Barrow in October, 1807, 
with mail and news of the perilous situation, and asking for aid as- 
soon as possible, had arrived at Herschel Island safety, and from there 
on was put in charge of the Hudson Bay Company. He had last 
been heard from at Fort MacPherson, on Peel River, Januaiy 5, and 
from there would be passed on from one to another of the Hudson 
Bay posts until Edminton was reached. 

The arrival of this sled removed the last doubtful point in the situ- 
ation, and knowing just how manj r men we had to care for and just 
what we had to do it with, it remained now simply a question of mak- 
ing the best uses of what we had, and to hold everybody together in 
order and discipline until your arrival. I was anxious to not sacrifice 
any of the reindeer if it were not necessary, but found later in April 
that we could not feed the men so much of the old salt meat as they 
were getting without bringing back scurvy. The surgeon reported 
some slight indications toward the last of the month, and I directed 
an increase of the fresh meat to 4 pounds per week, bringing the use 
of the salt meat down to two days, and was prepared to increase the 
allowance on the vessels on visiting them. The hunting season was 
about closed, for the caribou had the first part of April gone back to 
the Meade River Mountains, preparatory to the fawning season, and 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 89 

were out of reach of the hunters, who now began returning to the vil- 
lage and station. Two expeditions arrived after April 1, and each 
returning hunter brought in a small amount of meat and fish and all 
the heavy deer skins lie could haul on his sled. In this way 5,000 
pounds arrived iu April, but 2,000 pounds of this had to be sent to 
the Belvedere, leaving us at Point Ban-ow about 4,000 pounds for all 
purposes. Hunters from the vessels to the east were kept out until 
June, but they got nothing after April. 

Shortly after my arrival there became manifest a disposition among 
the crews of the different vessels to leave them as soon as warm weather 
came, with the thought that I, as the head of the situation, would have 
to receive and care for them at Point Barrow, and I was compelled to 
immediately define and maintain the relations they held to the vessels 
and the vessels to them. With the exception of the crew of the Jeanie, 
who were shipped for the voyage, all the others were shipped for stated 
periods, and all these periods had either expired or would expire in 
a short time. I held that the vessels were caught in a position of peril 
through no fault of their own, but through an act of Providence, over 
which they had no control. As long as they remained in that posi- 
tion and were not wrecked, and with chances of escaping the peril, 
the obligation of the crew to remain by them and save them could 
not be broken, and the obligation of the vessel to provide for the 
crew during the time they were held in this position through no fault 
or desire of theirs, was equalby strong; so I caused it to be known that 
I should hold the crews to the vessels as long as they were not wrecked, 
no matter when the terms of shipment expired, and that I should 
recognize no discharges given after the vessels were first caught by 
the ice; that discharges could not properly be given here, in a deso- 
late, inhospitable country, but only upon return to a proper port of 
discharge or upon your arrival in the open season, when the sick or 
disabled could be given transportation to civilization. I also held 
that it was the obligation of the vessel to provide for herself as far 
as she was able, and that I was there representing the Government to 
help them do this, to preserve order, and to prevent by all means in 
my power any distress, and would extend any aid necessary. 

Aside from the safety of tho vessels there were other strong reasons 
why the men should remain as they were on their vessels. All the 
food had been distributed with this in view, and it was impossible 
now to make any change in it. I could not care for any more at Point 
Barrow without cutting down an already too short allowance. Again, 
in the matter of exercising discipline and control, it was better that 
the men be divided into small groups, separated at good distances, as 
they now were, for so many idle men in one crowd would breed all 
manner of disturbances and troubles. I adhered to the above deci- 
sion all through my government of the situation, and maintained that 
eveiy man who came in a ship which was in existence still belonged 



90 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

to that vessel, and only in some particularly exceptional eases that 
had occurred before my arrival did I allow the men to remain away 
from their vessels. I had no real difficulty in enforcing my decision in 
this respect, but there were continually cases and points coming- up at 
variance with it, and I had to constantly insist on the points men- 
tioned. 

I found at Cape Smythe, on my arrival, J. A. Coffin, first mate of the 
Jeanie, who claimed to have been driven from his vessel by the mas- 
ter. Upon investigation I found this story of being driven away to 
be true, but the master represented that Coffin was troublesome and 
mutinous, and that he had to be gotten rid of or there would have 
been serious trouble with all hands. Though I held that Coffin still 
belonged to the vessel; that the act of the master was illegal, I also 
sav, r the necessity, in the extreme circumstances of the case, of keeping 
Coffin away from the vessel, and did keep him at Cape Smythe; and 
even there he caused more trouble than any of the men under 1113' 
charge. 

There was one man from the schooner Rosario whom I found at 
Cape Smythe, and who I learned had first deserted the vessel, and 
had then been discharged, to work in Mr. B rower's house, but having 
been troublesome, and having drawn a knife on one of the men there 
he had been put in the old house along with the others. Upon learning 
that he belonged to the Rosario I returned him to the vessel; but upon 
the master's representing the man as a disturbing element in his crew 
I again took him to Cape Smythe. deeming it better to have all such 
under 1113- immediate control. Fifteen of the crew of the Belvedere 
were also at Cape Smythe, having been sent there in October, 1897, 
because of shortness of provision and the impossibility of hauling 
enough to the vessel to feed them. I kept these men where they were 
and turned them over to you as part of the Belvedere crew. 

April 3 Louis Rich, carpenter of the Fearless, arrived at Cape 
Smythe, reporting he had left his vessel on account of a dispute with 
the master, and asked that he be taken into the quarters with the 
shipwrecked men. Upon investigation, his cause for leaving was 
found to be so trivial that I returned him to the vessel the next day 
and admonished him to remain there. I suspected and subsequently 
learned that this man was put forward to try me and the situation, and 
if he had been allowed to leave his vessel all the other dissatisfied ones 
would soon have followed. As he had to walk 50 miles coming to me 
and 50 miles returning to the vessel, there were none others anxious 
to try it after that lesson. 

By the middle of April Mr. B rower and the natives of the village 
had made preparations to commence their usual spring whaling. This 
whaling is done on the ice at some distance from the shore, often 5 to 
10 miles, where the first lead of water is opened up by the easterly 
wind. The boats are hauled out on sleds and the people camp at the 





GOING OUT ON THE ICE FOR WHALES IN APRIL. 










RETURNING FROM WHALING IN JUNE. 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAK. 91 

edge of the ice and remain there until a general break np comes in 
June. The whales pass up this open lead, and, when caught, are 
brought to the inshore ice, where, if small, they are hauled out bodily, 
or, if large, the head is hauled up high enough to be cut off and the 
bone taken out. This is the principle article of trade and is largely 
sought, while the skin and meat are cut off and sent to the village ice 
houses for food during the coming summer and winter. The work is 
hazardous and entails a great amount of exposure and suffering. As 
the natives were denied any portion of the flour and deer meat on 
hand, it was necessary that this whaling should be successful enough 
to supply them food to last from now through the summer. All the 
hunters were coming in — eventually there were nearly 500 people to 
be provided for. Excepting his personal effects, Mr. Brower had 
given up the whole of his whaling and trading establishment to the 
vessels and men about. He had plaeed it all at my disposal ' and it 
had to last until the summer. At one time it was thought that he 
would have to give up whaling altogether. This was so serious an 
interference with his business that 1 sought to protect him and the 
natives in the prosecution of so much of it as they were able to do. 
About half the men under my charge wished to go out on the ice them- 
selves and "whale it." This was neither advisable nor safe, and, 
besides, Mr. Brower objected, claiming that, as he had seriously crip- 
pled his business to keep the men from starving, they should not 
interfere with what he was able to do with his small remaining outfit. 
The men were inexperienced, were not at all fitted to stand the expo- 
sure, nor could they be provided with clothing, and besides would cause 
great confusion, and their indiscriminate use of firearms, etc., was 
likely to be dangerous. 

I had now enough food on hand to last the season without resorting 
to whale meat, which would not answer for all the white men, and 
the most serious need now was that the natives secure enough to last 
them and provide us with dog feed, of which we were greatly in need. 
I did allow Mr. Brower to man two of his boats with some of the men 
on their coming to satisfactory arrangements and being under the 
control of him and his assistants, but was prepared to revoke this if 
there was any seiious trouble. Many of the men Avanted to go out 
with the natives, but this was not advisable, and I would not allow it. 
The men could be of no use to the natives, would only be a burden in 
the boats, and make no end of confusion and trouble. The natives 
had been able to run their own business heretofore and could do it 
now without the help of white men; and this was only a subterfuge 
of the men to share in the natives' catch. I adhered to my previous 
determination that the natives and whites should be kept apart as 
much as possible, and the white men should keep off the whaling- 
ground, except those who went in Mr. Brower's boats. From these 
we could get enough whale and seal meat for our purposes. Once 



92 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

tlie order was understood there was no trouble in enforcing it, though 
I had to stand off manj 7 ingenious propositions to get around it. 

The schooner Rosario and the steamer Belvedere both engaged in 
the whaling, but the other vessels to the east of Point Barrow, being 
so far from the ground, did not. The season was the most successful 
in years, the catch being 42 whales, large and small. Most of them 
were quite small, but they furnished excellent food for the natives, 
and with so many to be provided for a small whale would seem to be 
eaten up in a few hours. Except the choice parts of fins and flukes, 
which go to the fortunate canoe catching the whale, the meat was 
common property and was shared in by the whole population. After 
the meager living of the winter, this was a feasting time for these 
natives, and, besides, a large store for the summer was laid in. It was 
not possible to save the bodies of some of the whales, and others were 
not recovered until days after being killed, and were then unfit 
for food. 

The natives' catch of whalebone was about 10,000 pounds, that of 
Mr. Brower's station about 12,000 pounds, the Belvedere about 3,000 
pounds, and the Rosario about 500 pounds. 

All the men who were out on the ice kept themselves in food, except 
for a small amount of tea and coffee and some hard bread that had 
been reserved for the travelers and not used. In this way we saved 
650 pounds of flour and small stores, which later were distributed to 
the vessels most needing them. The whaling continued until June 
when the ice began to break up on the edge of the floe, and the pack 
came grinding in, closing up the lead and keeping it closed until 
just before your arrival. 

There were several accidents to the natives from carelessness but 
no one was lost, nor Avas anyone carried off by the ice, as sometimes 
happens. It is very hard, rough, dangerous work at best, and only 
resolute, strong men can stand the exposure and heavy strain on the 
system. 

May 2 I started with Captain Leavitt, of the New%>ort, to visit his 
vessels and the others to the east of Point Barrow. We went by the 
Rosario, and I authorized Captain Coffin to issue fresh meat to his 
men to the extent of 1+ pounds per day. A satisfactory ration table 
had been submitted to me here by Captain Coffin on my first visit, 
April 4, but small stores were now disappearing, and the increased 
quantity of meat was necessary to take their places. 

The steamers Neivport and Fearless were fully 50 miles from the 
station, and it was a long day's journey to reach them without camp- 
ing, yet it was done day after day hy the ship's travelers in keeping 
themselves supplied during the winter, and we did it ourselves in 
fourteen hours. There was now excellent order and contentment on 
these two vessels. They were not not more than 200 yards apart, and 
less than one-half mile from the shore. There was a heavy ridge of 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 93 

grounded ice outside them which promised to keep off any crushing 
that might come later. The few provisions and supplies were kept 
in a house on shore to guard against loss of the vessels, by fire or 
crushing and, as in the case of the Belvedere, a line was stretched 
from each vessels to this house. Everything was equally divided, and 
the ration was reduced to 1 pound of flour per day and three-fourths 
of a pound of deer meat, with tea and coffee. This was not sufficient, 
and on my return from the Jeanie I authorized an increase of meat to 
1-J- pounds. These two vessels were in such desperate straits for food 
in the fall of 1897 that it took heroic work to keep them supplied, 
and Captains Leavitt and McKenna are deserving of great credit for 
the way they brought their crews through. 

The Fearless Avas formerly a Norwegian whaler, but was now under 
the Mcaraguan flag, though owned in San Francisco. I extended 
to her throughout our stay the same measure of assistance as to the 
others. There were on board the Fearless two of the men rescued 
from the Navarch. As they were without a ship and these vessels were 
so short of provisions, I took them into the camp at Cape S my the. 

After remaining on the Neivport two days I went on to the Jeanie 
with Captain Mason, of that vessel, Avho had been visiting the New- 
port. It was a long journey of 40 to 45 miles over the ice of Smiths 
Bay, and it was well into the night before we arrived at the vessel. 

The Jeanie was the tender to the Herschel Island fleet. She had 
discharged her cargo there and was caught by the ice on her way out. 
She was a large steam schooner, not as well fitted for .ce work as 
the whaling vessels, and had fallen behind on the way. She was at 
Point Ellice, about 4 miles offshore, and, though there was heavy 
grounded ice about her, it seemed she was in a dangerous position 
and might suffer when the summer came. There were many com- 
plaints from the crew, and all hands seemed discontented and in a bad 
state of discipline. I think this was mainly due to the fact that the 
vessel was away from all travel but that of her own hunters, and the 
long winter of idleness had been more than her people could stand. 
Provisions were now very short, and there was scarcely enough fresh 
meat to last more than a month. Small stores were in more abun- 
dance than on the other vessels, though, and I arranged with Captain 
Mason a satisfactory ration, increasing the fresh meat to 1-g- pounds 
per day, and promised to supply that amount from the herd. I was 
concerned about the safety of this vessel, and arranged with Captain 
Mason to send them a canoe and canoe sled for traveling over the 
broken ice in ease of serious accident. Being so far offshore the 
danger of crushing was much greater, and should the Avind come strong 
from the south during the break-up the A 7 essel might go off Avith the 
whole field. 

Returning by the Newport, Fearless, and Bosario, I arrived at Cape 
Smythe May 10. During my absence many disputes had arisen among 



94 CRUISE OF THE U. B. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

the men and other people, and I was occupied several days straight- 
ening them out. After I once assumed the authority the men would 
be amenable to no one but me, and while I was away reserved all 
their disputes for my return. The most serious one was between 
Mr. E. A. Mcllhenny and Tukaloona, a native. The latter was run- 
ning a whaling cauoe for Mcllhennj r , who claimed the agreement was 
that he should get one-half the catch. A large whale was caught, and 
as Tukaloona gave him only one-fourth of this he took all the bone 
to his house, and the native appealed to me. After investigating the 
case thoroughly I learned beyond question that the agreement was 
to share alike, and taking all the bone in one pile 1 had it divided 
equally. The agreement was then dissolved to prevent further trouble. 
This was the same kind of trouble I had anticipated with the wrecked 
men if they were allowed to work in the native boats, and I felt 
relieved that I had not permitted it in the beginning of the season. 

At Cape Smythe, waiting my return, was a sled from the Belvedere 
with a letter from Captain Millard saying his crew had refused duty. 
I was delayed several days by a storm, but May "U I took the sled and 
started south for the vessel. The 60 miles was too far for one day's 
journey, and that night I camped at the deer herd. I had given Arti- 
sarlook and Utenna four boys to help them do the herding and tend 
the young which were now being born. There had been 197 fawns 
up to this date, and of these 33 had died. This was a larger propor- 
tion of deaths than usual, and I attributed it to the more severe 
weather here than that about Bering Strait, where the deer had been 
before. I continued on to the Belvedere on the loth and arrived that 
night. The next day, after hearing what the master and the men 
had to say, I learned that they had refused to haul wood when the 
dog team was around, and complained they did not receive sufficient 
food, and that they also wanted to leave the vessel, as their terms of 
shipment had expired in March. I reiterated my previous decision 
that all men must stay by the vessel without regard to terms of ship- 
ment, and then turned the crew to. The food question I looked into, 
and directed an increase of meat to the same amount as at other 
places — 1£ to 1^ pounds per day. 

At the different vessels I inspected the men's food and endeavored 
to see that it was well cooked and wholesome, for with the reduced 
amount they had to live on it was necessary that everything be prop- 
erly prepared. Boiled deer meat gave a nourishing soup in addition 
to the solid matter, and it was generally prepared in this way. The 
question of the men's work was left with the master, for there really 
was little work to do and it was only put forward by the men to add 
to the number of disputes. 

While at the Belvedere the weather suddenly grew very warm, the 
thermometer going above the freezing point, and as the sun was above 
the horizon all the twenty-four hours the snow began melting very 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 95 

fast. On the 19th I arrived back at Cape Smythe. The sudden rise 
of temperature compelled us to go to work immediately to clear away 
the snow from about the houses and drain the water down by the 
beach. Since our first arrival the thermometer had hovered about 
zero, sometimes in April going as low as — 20° to — 25° and the north- 
east wind prevailed almost the whole month. 

It was not until May that the sun began to make any difference in 
the snow. The winter, as a rule, had been mild, but the fall of snow 
was heavy. This could hardly be estimated, for the wind kept it con- 
tinually moving and piled it in heavy drifts Avherever there was an 
obstruction. There probably was a fall of from 3 to 4 feet on a 
level, but the drifts in some places went right over the houses. When 
the sun began to eat away the snow, the water settled through the 
drifts and promised to flood the houses, and men were kept busy dig- 
ging and making drains all over the beach. With the moderate 
weather it was possible for all of them to be gotten out of the houses 
and kept out most of the day, and though it was a heavy tax on our 
resources to provide them with water boots, it was necessary for the 
health of all. Baseball had been in vogue for exercise during the cold 
weather when the snow was hard enough to give good footing. It 
was excellent exercise and gave all something of interest to talk about 
and furnished a relief from the idle monotony. Later when the snow 
was off the ground the games were resumed, and I required the men 
to either play baseball or carry ducks from our shooting camp 5 miles 
away, the exercise grew more popular. 

When once the snow started melting, it went so fast that by May 20 
spots of bare ground began to show along the beaches. The water ran 
out on the sea ice and on the ice in the streams and soon the snow on top 
of all was a mass of slush and water. The snow grew softer and the 
water deeper until June 13 when the ice at the mouths of the small 
streams broke through and a flood of water covered the sea ice for 
several miles out. In a short time this water made holes through the 
weak places and ran off, leaving the hard sea ice bare, except in the 
hollows where streams of water still remained. Gradually these 
streams on top and the warm current from the south below ate through 
these weak places, but it was not until July that the ice inside the 
ridge began to break up into small cakes, and about the middle of 
that month it had all broken up and was floating about with the wind 
and current. The sun was now shining daj r and night, and though 
the thermometer at times lowered to about the freezing point the 
melting never stopped, and this continuous daylight and sun had a 
strong effect on both old and new ice. 

During the winter, where there was no crushing the ice froze from 
5 to 6 feet thick. There are no bergs in this part of the Arctic Ocean 
like those about Greenland, and the general character of the ice is 
that of great, rough fields and huge, irregular floating cakes that are 



96 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

formed \>y the continual crushing and piling up of the fall and winter. 
From mj 7 own observations and from the experience of others here all 
the ice that forms on a level during the winter and does not shelve 
and pile up soon passes away in the following summer, together with 
much of the old, large ice that was left over from previous years; but 
this loss is about counterbalanced bj 7 the accumulations of the crush- 
ings of the fall and winter. All the ice formed in the rivers and 
lagoons melts there and has no effect on the amount in the ocean. In 
this way the ice in the open sea is kept at about the same point, con- 
tinually stirring about, summer and winter, with the winds and cur- 
rents, and seasons of greater or less ice are simply times when differ- 
ent winds prevail, keeping the fields closer to the shore or blowing 
them off and leaving open water. 

The heavy crushings of the "ridge "are caused by the ice first 
grounding and piling up as it comes closer to the shore. This ridge 
forms a barrier to the pack outside and generally is solidly anchored 
by December or January. Attached to this and extending some miles 
offshore is what is known as the floe or, locally, " flaw." Even in the 
winter, when the wind blows off the land the pack drifts off, and a lead 
of open water is made outside the "floe." There is always a slight 
current in this lead running to the north, unless the wind is strong 
enough to stop and turn it. In the late spring and summer this 
northerly current increases at times to 2 and 3 knots, but the 
strength of it must be more or less local and confined close to the 
land, as evidenced by the drift of the Navarch. This vessel caught 
in the pack off Icy Cape in the latter part of July, 1897, gradually 
worked offshore and to the northward, passed Point Barrow in 
August, and during September was about 100 miles east of that 
point and about 20 miles from the land. In October she returned to 
a position about 40 miles east of Point Barrow, and then in November 
disappeared. Her next appearance, in the latter part of January, 
was at Refuge Inlet, about 20 miles to the south of Point Barrow, 
and going off from there she appeared again in February only -i or 5 
miles from the Point. Thus for six months she had been drifting 
back and forth within a distance of 250 miles with Point Barrow in 
the center, and all the time fast in the pack ice. This could not 
have happened if there was a continuous current in one direction. It 
would seem also that the strength of the current is close to the land, 
and while offshore there is a slight drift to the north in summer. In 
the winter season, however, the ice is moved about almost wholly by 
the wind. 

During our winter journey we saw ptarmigan in large flocks in the 
Yukon district and in more scattered numbers farther north. Occa- 
sional ravens were seen until Point Hope was reached. I am told 
they are sometimes seen as far north as Cape Lisburne, but not beyond 
that point. These and Arctic owls were the only birds we saw, but 




RETURNING FROM A DUCK HUNT AT POINT BARROW. 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 97 

with the coining of spring there came great numbers of different birds 
to the Point Barrow region. A snowbird was first reported April 14, 
but it was not until May that any more than one or two a day were 
seen by the whole population. April 19 two eider ducks were reported 
flying by Ignavik; but during this month the birds of all kinds that 
appeared were but individual forerunners of the flights that were to 
come in May. In the early part of that month great flocks of eider 
ducks were moving northward along the lead of open water off shore. 
This flight continued all of May and June, and the men out Avhaling 
not only kept themselves in ducks, but from time to time furnished 
us ashore enough to augment our food supply and vary the monotony 
of the diet. 

Just as soon as bare spots appeared on the land eider ducks, geese, 
jagers, owls, and loons began nesting in great numbers. For a short 
time in June quantities of eggs were gathered by the men ashore and 
by the vessels to the east. They did not remain fresh long, and Avith 
so many people as we had to care for they made but little addition to 
the general supplies, and each man was allowed to keep what he 
found. About the 1st of July the male eiders began their flight to 
the southward. They came from the east of Point Barrow along the 
lagoons, crossed the sand spit at the head of Elson Bay, and flew out 
over the ice beyond the ridge to the open water, which they followed 
until out of sight. When the wind was northeast, they flew by the 
shooting station established by H. B. M. ship Plover in the winter of 
lSoo-Ort in great masses — flocks of hundreds, and one flock following- 
close on another. As soon as this flight began we established a camp 
at the shooting station, composed of First Mate J. L. Ellis, of the Orca, 
and Capt. E. Aiken, formerly in charge of the refuge station, and two 
natives. In ten days while this flight lasted they shot and recovered 
and sent to our camp 1,100 eider ducks. Our supply of fish had given 
out several weeks before, and these ducks not only filled the place on 
our Aveekly ration, but also furnished an excellent change and addi- 
tion to the food. The natives also secured a large supply of ducks, 
and the question of food was ended, as we now had but one month to 
wait for your arrival. 

I saw that the supply of meat secured from the hunters was used 
first, and reserved that killed from the herd to the last. I was anxious 
to protect the latter as far as possible and kill only enough to last us 
through the season. After supplying the vessels to the east, however, 
I kept our ice house filled with meat and ducks, while the Belvedere, 
being but a short distance from the herd, hauled her meat direct from 
there as she needed it. All hauling was finished by the end of June, 
for the snow was gone entirely from the land, and the sea ice was 
honeycombed and rotten and covered with streams of water that had 
to be waded. 

The vessels to the east had to be stocked with meat to last until 



98 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

August 10 or 15, as little hope could be had that they would be out of 
the ice before that time. All through June this work went on, and 
by unusual labor it was accomplished, together with the sending of a 
large canoe aud sled to the Jeanie for the safety of the crew of that 
vessel. 

This late hauling was very severe on the dogs, as the honeycombed 
ice lacerated their feet in a short time, and even the boots that were 
made for their feet saved them very little. They worked wonderfully, 
though, and many would arrive back in such a state they could hardly 
stand up. I know no more faithful, enduring, hard-working animal 
thau an Eskimo dog. There is no snow too deep, no ice too rough, no 
hill too steep for them to face, and as long as there is life left in them 
they will pull and struggle to drag along. Ill fed and abused, they 
maj^ seem snarling and snappish, but their faithfulness dwarfs all 
other considerations. For my own team, which traveled with differ- 
ent parts of the expedition more than two thousand five hundred miles 
during the winter, I have only an affectionate gratitude for the way 
they carried us through. 

The work of the dogs and travelers from the ships and station and 
villages about Point Barrow during the long winter was heroic, and 
the hardships and struggles to maintain life there were grand bej^ond 
description. Some of the journeys to and from the hunters on Hie 
trackless tundra, often distances of more than two hundred miles, 
were almost inconceivable to even those who know the country. 

Having seen that all the vessels were supplied up to the time we 
could expect relief from you, there Avas nothing left but to wait 
patiently for the break-up. Before it came, however, on July 2, we had 
a violent southeast gale which gradually worked round to the south- 
west and west, jamming the "pack" hard against the ridge, breaking 
aud cracking it in many places, shoving it farther in, and sending 
crushes of the iuside ice against the beach. One of these crushes 
struck the stern of the schooner Rosario, at Point Barrow, and raised 
her up on the ice above the level of the water. Passing under her, 
it took away her rudder and sternpost, tore her keel away, and stove 
a hole in her bow. All this happened in a few minutes, but as the 
vessel was close up to the beach the crew got ashore safely and saved 
the remaining store of provisions. I visited the vessel that night 
and found a camp had been made on the shore near the wreck. I 
arranged with Captain Coffin that the crew should remain where they 
were; but later, on account of some trouble with the men, I brought 
them to Cape Smythe, camping them in a tent on the beach, Avhere 
they could be under my supervision. 

The master and officers remained by the vessel until your arrival, 
and all her gear was saved and finally disposed of. Later I heard 
that all the vessels had been greatly shaken up in this storm, but no 
damage was done them. 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 99 

The Belvedere Avas carried out with the field of ice she was fast in 
and at one time was in danger of going off in the pack, but when the 
wind shifted to the west she was brought back to her oi'iginal position. 

The Newport and Fearless were badly jarred, but the heavy ground 
ice outside of them kept off the worst of the crush. The Jennie 
remained fast in the field about her and it was all shoved bodily 
against the beach, where it piled up in places as high as 40 feet. 
Happily the height of the storm did not last long, and outside the 
damage to the Rosario the net result was to break up the ice so it 
could go off with the first favorable wind. 

July 4 was made a real holiday in our isolated place. I made a 
special effoi't to collect and provide an ample, and what then was a 
luxurious dinner, to all hands. A few bottles of pickles that had 
been saved were given to the men, together Avith an extra allowance 
of flour and meat; and enough dried apples had been saA^ed from Mr. 
B rower's stores to give everybody "pie." Some athletic sports and 
games Avere arranged and carried through, with such prizes as our 
straightened circumstances would permit, and an excellent spirit Avas 
infused into all. Such things make the government of men in trying 
circumstances easier, and mark a break in the dreary, monotonous 
imprisonment that buries the thoughts most of the hardships that 
have gone before. 

I found the greatest craving of the men was for some season- 
ing in their food. The continuous boiled meat and bread Avould 
sometimes pall, and after my arrival I collected from the outlying 
A r essels some tins of sage, savory, and thyme, and these seemed to 
make a great difference in the food. Pepper Avas most craved, but 
by spring there AA^as little or none left anywhere. 

After the Avhaling was finished the natives immediately began leav- 
ing for the east, to trade with the natives from the Colville River and 
others on the coast as far as Barter Island. This is a yearly trip 
made by the Point Barrow natives to secure deei'skins for clothing, 
and also to fish in the rivers during the early summer. Taking a 
canoe and outfit on their sleds they started across the tundra back 
of the village at Cape Smythe, and after traveling about 10 miles 
struck a river, from Avhich, with short portages, they Avere able to 
make their Avay through the network of streams and lakes until they 
reached Lake Tesukpuk. About the time they arrive this far there is 
sufficient open Avater for their canoes and the journey is continued 
along the shore. The return is made in the latter part of August or 
in September, before the young ice begins to make. Many of the 
Colville River people also come to Point Barrow in June and July to 
exchange furs for seal-oil and ammunition. A constant trade is thus 
maintained along this as well as other parts of the Alaskan coast, and 
in this Avay furs are passed along, in the ramifications of the trade, 
from as far east as the Mackenzie River, across the Bering Straits, 
15396 13 

LotC. 



100 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

back through the Siberian wilds to the Russian outposts — mink, 
marten, beaver, and red fox skins being the principal articles going 
from Alaska, and, in return, reindeer skins for clothing come from 
Siberia. Formerly Russian tobacco and tea came to Alaska in this 
way, but these have now been driven out by the trade carried on by 
the whaling vessels and trading posts established in the country. 

Early in July I planned and prepared an expedition in charge of 
Capt. A. C. Sherman, consisting of eight men and two natives, to go 
down the coast as far as Icy Cape or Point Lay to the Bear, with news 
of our condition. At Point Barrow we had supplies to last until 
August 20, and at the outlying vessels except the Belvedere until 
August 10, but there was always uncertainty as to the demands on 
the supply on the vessels, and after August 1 our provisions would 
be so limited that another distribution would be necessary, and more 
rigid economy than ever enforced. 

The Belvedere supplies were designed to last until August 1, as she 
was farthest south and could expect relief sooner. However, on July 
IS, I sent her 500 pounds of the remainiug flour that had been reserved 
for emergencies, as I was anxious that we should all fare as nearly 
alike as possible. 

Water was making along the beach very fast in July, and on the 
11th the expedition started with a canoe, sled, and two weeks' pro- 
visions. Their experience and arrival on the Bear you know of. 

The reindeer herd was kept all this time between Sima and Refuge 
Inlet, moving about between the places as the moss was eaten off. 
Though not so plentiful as in the region about Cape Prince of Wales 
and Norton Sound, there is ample feed in this section to support a 
large herd. On account of our needs this herd was kept on the coast, 
yet from all reports I believe that farther back the moss is not only 
better but much more plentiful. The first fawns were born April 12, 
and births continued until the middle of June, making 251 in all, 
and of these 64 died or were accidentally killed after birth. It 
was first thought that these deaths were caused by the cold weather, 
but as they continued in the same proportion throughout, even in the 
early part of June, the weather could not be the cause. It was a 
greater number of deaths than usual, and it was observed that nearly 
all were fawns whose mothers were but 1 j^ear old themselves, and 
I concluded that these half -grown mothers were not strong enough to 
stand the severe travel they had been subjected to so close to delivery, 
and still bear young with sufficient stamina to live. 

Artisarlook and Utenna gave excellent and constant attention to 
the herd, and the four "boys" engaged to assist them soon adapted 
themselves to the work aud became capable herders. At first the 
reindeer were regarded with curiosity by the natives, but later they 
began to see the great usefulness of the animals, and wonder how they 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 101 

could be secured. I -was constantly asked by the better class of the 
people if tlie reindeer were to be left there after we had used all we 
needed, and if in some way their sons could not work in the herd, 
learn the business, and eventually possess deer themselves. Our 
situation was too uncertain and I was too busily occupied to make this 
experiment, yet I do not doubt the willingness and the ability of these 
people to become good deermen, for they struck me as being the best 
natives on all the coast. It was not only at Point Barrow that the 
reindeer were appreciated and desired, but everywhere on our route 
from Cape Prince of Wales. The whole coast is well adapted for 
them, and I know of nothing that Avould be so beneficial as their intro- 
duction in large numbers throughout all the northern part of Alaska. 

The wild deer or caribou will soon be a thing of the past there. 
The great demand of the miners for deerskin clothing will monopo- 
lize all the supply that can be had from Siberia, and in a very few 
years the natives will be great sufferers, for nothing can take the 
place of deerskins with them. When herds are scattered over the coun- 
try at convenient distances there are great possibilities of transporta- 
tion, and, for food, reindeer meat can not be equaled in that region. 
Upon the arrival of the Bear there were 391 left in our herd, old and 
young, and under your direction they were turned over to Dr. H. R. 
Marsh, representing the Presbyterian mission. Besides what was 
used for the members of the expedition I distributed 12,481 pounds 
of fresh meat from the herd among the people at Point Barrow, and 
the addition of this when most needed, made it possible to bring the 
men through without extreme suffering and sickness. 

July 21.—. Mr. Thomas, first mate of the Newport, arrived at the 
station, having made his way in a boat from his ship to the head of 
Elson Bay. He reported that on the 12th instant the Neivport and 
Fearless had been able to work free of the ice that had held them, 
and two days later came as far west as Point Tangent, then gradually 
to Cooper Island, but could get no farther. The Neivport was leaking 
badly, but later on was taken into Elson Bay and the leak stopped. 
Their provisions Avere getting so low that I sent them 300 pounds of 
salt meat, as the fresh meat Avould not keep in the warm weather we 
were now having. On the 18th the Jeanie came in sight and worked 
to within 3 miles of the other vessels, but as yet there had been no 
communication between them. I learned later that the Jeanie' s stem 
was in bad shape and that she also was leaking badly. Both vessels 
were in such condition that it was necessary that they go to some 
port for repairs as soon as possible. 

During the first half of July the wind blew from the southwest and 
kept the pack hard in with no sign of movement, but on the 14th it 
shifted to northeast and blew from that direction almost steadily until 
after your arrival. It was several days before any effect was visible 



102 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

on the ice, but gradually a small lead begau to show outside the ridge, 
and it kept spreading until the 26th instant, when the pack was out 
of sight from the land. During these days the men in camp were 
very uneasy and excited over the prospect of near relief from their 
long imprisonment. 

After your arrival and the men were sent aboard, the quarters they 
occupied were cleaned and turned over to their owners in good condi- 
tion, and the work of the overland expedition was ended. The orders 
of the Department were fully carried out and the imprisoned men at 
Point Barrow were relieved from the bad condition in which they were 
found, succored and governed, to the effect that they were turned over 
to you in the state of good health you must have observed. The only 
death after our arrival was that of Philip Mann, aged 48 years, native 
of New York, formerly seaman of the steamer Jessie H. Freeman, of 
heart disease, June 8, 1898. The particulars of his death and the 
post-mortem on his body are contained in Surgeon Call's report. 

The final good outcome of the situation under which the vessels 
were imprisoned at Point Barrow seems providential. When first 
caught by the ice, in September, 1S97, there were 275 men, with 
scarcely enough provisions to last them until January. Yet they were 
brought out of it in August, 1898, with no starvation and little suffer- 
ing. A chain of fortunate, almost miraculous, circumstances, and 
extraordinary and heroic labor, contributed to this result; first of all, 
the intelligent work and good will of Mr. C. A. Brower, manager of 
the Cape Smythe Trading and Whaling Company, in giving the sup- 
plies and resources of his station to the relief of the men; the good- 
ness and help of the natives who denied themselves and were denied, 
to support the white people; the miraculous coming in with the ice of 
the wreck of the Navarch with her provisions when they were most 
needed; the appearance of wild deer in the neighboring country in 
numbers before unheard of; the labors of the masters and traveling 
men of the vessels, and the opportune arrival of the overland expedi- 
tion, with its supply of fresh meat, at the very time when the men 
required correction in the way of living, government, and an increase 
of fresh food. Despite some shortcomings, the work followed on suc- 
cessfully from the beginning to the end of the long year, and though 
there was disaster to property there was none to human life. 

In detailing the work of the expedition, I have not dwelt upon the 
personal part of the travel with any intention to magnify the dangers 
or trials, but simply to show some of the difficulties we encountered, 
and which all people traveling in that country have to contend 
against. That we overcame them was due to the enthusiastic labor 
of all in the effort to carry out your orders; and to the help we 
received from those living in the country and from the natives. 
The help of the natives to us and to the people at Point Barrow is 
deserving of some substantial reward. I submit herewith reports of 




SEALS. 




FEEDING THE DOGS. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 103 

Second Lieut. E. P. Bertliolf and Surg. S. J. Call of independent 
operations carried on by them. 

Very respectfully, D. H. Jarvis, 

First Lieutenant, R. C. S. , 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 

Capt. Francis Tuttle, R. C. S., 

Commanding U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear. 



REPORT OF LIEUT. E. P. BERTHOLF, R. C. S. 

September 1, 1898. 

Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report of my move- 
ments while separated from the main expedition, in accordance with 
the written orders received from yourself, dated December 20, 1897. 

On the evening of December 21, the day after you had departed 
from Kiyilieugamute, the dogs for which we were waiting returned 
to the village, and, having bargained for their use, we were enabled 
to resume our journey the following morning, taking Alexis and a 
native boy along with us for guides. We traveled along the same 
trail used by you and Dr. Call, receiving news of your arrival and 
depai'ture as we came to the different villages along the route, and 
as advantage had been taken of our enforced stay at Kiyilieuga- 
mute to alter the heavy sled brought from the ship so as to bring 
the runners closer together and take the sag out of the after ends of 
them, I was not obliged to wait so often for Koltchoff to catch up with 
that sled, and we made very good progress. 

When we reached Akoolukpugamute on the evening of the 22d, 
I wished to cross the mountains in order to save a day, and if possible 
catch up with you by the time we reached St. Michael, but having no 
tent for shelter in case we got caught in a storm on the mountain, 
Alexis thought it would be better to go around the range, and thus 
reach a village each night for shelter in case bad weather should set 
in unexpectedly. 

Accordingly Ave followed your trail, which brought us to Chuk- 
woktulieugamute on the 23d and to Kogerchtehmute on the 24th. 
By this time my dogs' feet were very sore, for the thin crust on the 
snow, which the dogs broke through at nearly every step, cut and 
lacerated the cushions of their feet so that some of the poor little 
fellows left a trail of blood behind them. Under ordinary circum- 
stances when the dogs' feet become sore in this manner it is best to 
halt for a few days and allow them a rest, for the cuts seem to heal 
very quickly in this climate. 

As we could not afford to lose any time, however, Alexis said he 
would have the native women in the village make "boots " for the dogs 
during the night. These boots are simply pieces of cotton drilling 



104 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

sewed together in such a manner as to fit over the lower part of the 
dog's foot, and then tied on just below the knee. This affords the 
cushions of the feet protection from the sharp edges of the snow and 
allows the cuts a chance to heal; but eveu these cotton coverings would 
be worn through in the course of a day's travel, and new ones must be 
put on each morning. Alexis sent one of our native guides to call the 
women to our tent, but although he offered to pay well for the little 
sewing necessary to make a supply of these boots, not a woman in the 
village would work on them, because the previous day one of the village 
natives had died, and their superstition forbade them to work the four 
succeeding daj^s after a death had occurred in the village. They said 
that whoever did any unnecessary work before the four days were up 
would surely fall sick and die also, and the only work that was neces- 
sary from their standpoint, was taking the fish from the traps and 
preparing the meals. They wouldn't even repair their own clothing 
during the four days, and not even the most liberal offers of tea, 
flour, and tobacco from Alexis could induce them to brave their 
superstitious fears, so we were obliged to make a set of boots our- 
selves, as best we could, to last until we reached Chukwoktulik the 
following day, where, as there had not been a recent death, we were 
enabled to have a supply made properly. 

The day we reached Chukwoktulik was Christmas, and as Ave saw 
quite a number of ptarmigan, or arctic grouse, on the road I imagined 
I would have a fairly good Christmas dinner that evening; but as I 
had only a rifle with me I Avas unable to kill any, and Avhen I reached 
the village I was obliged to content myself with the usual meal of 
pork and beans, hard bread, and tea. 

All through this country I found the natives extremely kind and 
hospitable. HaA r ingno tent, Ave were, of course, obliged to sleep in the 
natiA r e huts, and inA'ariably Avhen Ave came to a village and entered 
the kazhime the best and cleanest corner was set aside for our use. 
The village people Avould lend a hand to unload the sleds, bring our 
things into the hut, and see everything beyond the reach of the dogs. 
If Ave asked for fish, it Avas immediately brought, eA'en though their 
supply Avas scant, and if any of the natives had a seal they would cut 
out the liver and give it to us, although that is considered by them a 
delicacy and they are very foud of it. In fact, the best they haA-e, 
such as it is, they Avill share willingly Avith the stranger, and when 
you lea\ r e the village, if j r ou giA^e them a few cups of flour or a little tea 
or tobacco, they seem greatly pleased and think you are very liberal. 

I never took pains to keep track of iny personal outfit or the food 
we had Avith us, yet I never missed a single article, and frequently 
when we were packing the sleds in the morning a native would bring 
us some article that had been left behind in the kazhime. Once or 
twice I was given some small article you or Dr. Call had discarded, 
for Alexis told them I belonged to the same party, and they thought 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 105 

you had forgotten the article in question and wished to restore it to 
the proper owner. For simple honesty and hospitality these natives 
might be equaled, but they surely can not be excelled by any race of 
people. 

On the 26th we left Chukwoktulik and started the last da3 r 's journey 
before reaching to Andreafski. Having no thermometer, I had no 
means of ascertaining the degree of cold until we reached that place, 
when I was somewhat surprised to find the mercury registering 15° 
below zero, for up to that time the weather had not seemed to me to 
be very cold. Here we picked up the tent and stove you had left 
behind to lighten your load, and proceeded down the Yukon River 
the following day, but being obliged to lose half a day on the lower 
part of the river on account of a violent snowstorm we did not reach 
Cape Romanoff until late in the evening on December 29. Here 
Alexis first began to show signs of a serious illness, and during that 
night he was in great pain and was unable to sleep at all. For the 
previous three or four days he had frequently complained of a cold, 
with pains in the side, but neither he nor I thought seriously about it, 
and indeed I would have been unable to do anything for him, for I 
was not enough of a doctor to understand what was his trouble, and 
besides, I had no medicines with me. The next day he was unable to 
walk and was obliged to ride on the sled. Our other guide, having 
developed some sort of sore on both his knees, also had to be car- 
ried on the sled, so that all the running ahead of the dogs devolved 
uj)on Koltchoff and myself, and that night we got no farther than the 
steamer Healy, laid up in what is locally known as the "canal," 
about 12 miles from St. Michael, and did not reach the latter place 
until noon the following day, January 1, 1898. 

Upon our arrival I requested Dr. Edie, the surgeon attached to the 
military post there, to examine the two guides and prescribe for them. 
The native boy's knees were attended to,. and as they were not seri- 
ously affected he soon recovered the use of them, but Alexis was found 
to have developed a very bad case of pneumonia. He was therefore 
put to bed and turned over to the doctor's care, and for three months 
was confined to his room, but the doctor finally managed to pull him 
through and he left for his home some time in April. As Alexis had 
been very faithful and his illness was undoubtedly due to exposure 
while in the service of the expedition, I considered it my duty to see 
that he was properly cared for, and before I left St. Michael I gave an 
order to the agent of the Alaska Commercial Company at that place 
to furnish nurses for Alexis, and whatever else Surgeon Edie consid- 
ered necessary to further his recovery. 

As dogs were very scarce at this place and it was impossible to 
obtain fresh teams, I purchased from Alexis the best of the teams that 
had come Avith the expedition from Tununak, and remained at St. 
Michael until the cuts on the dogs' feet had healed. 



106 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Ill accordance with your letter, I delivered to F. Koltchoff your 
written order terminating his connection with the expedition and 
directing- him to report to Col. G. W. Randall, United States Army, 
for duty in connection with the Government deer herd. 

On Januaiy 6, having obtained from the company some necessary 
articles of clothing and provisions, I left St. Michael with one team 
and the native boy Fred for a guide, and proceeded to Unalaklik, 
reaching there on the evening of the 8th. A few hours after leaving 
St. Michael I fell in with the outfit of Mate George F. Tilton of the 
steam whaler Belvedere, who was on his way from Point Barrow to 
San Francisco, and who told me that he had met you and given you 
all the information he had concerning the state of affairs at Point 
Barrow. When I reached the house of Mr. Englestadt, the trader for 
the Alaska Commercial Companj 7 at Unalaklik, I found your order 
to carry 1,000 pounds of provisions across the country and meet you 
at Cape Blossom, but as I had only one team of dogs, and Englestadt 
was unable to furnish me with any more, I was obliged to remain there 
until your dogs returned. 

Here I obtained boots, socks, a parkie, and a sleeping bag made 
properly of deerskin, and discarded the corresponding articles brought 
from the ship, as they were not adapted to the cold weather we were 
now experiencing. The outfit and provisions for myself and the nec- 
essary natives weighed a little over 300 pounds, and as there were no 
villages on my prospective route between the head of Norton Bay and 
Cape Blossom, 300 pounds of fish had to be carried also, with which 
to feed the dogs, so that, together with the 1,000 pounds of provisions, 
there was a load of about 1,600 pounds to be transported. This would 
require at least four sleds, with the corresponding number of teams, 
but as Englestadt informed me that I could get one team from his 
native trader at Koyuk, this, with the two teams you were to send 
back and niy one team, would make up the necessary four, and as the 
300 pounds of fish and 500 pounds of flour were already at Koyuk, 
thus leaving but 800 pounds for me to haul from Unalakleet, I con- 
cluded on the 16th to start for Koyuk, taking the 800 pounds on my 
team and a small native team Englestadt managed to engage to go 
that far, hoping to meet your dogs returning on the way. 

Having been unable to obtain a thermometer at St. Michael, I was 
unable to keep a record of the temperature; but on the 16th, when I 
left Unalakleet, the mercuiy registered 30° below zero. 

Following the same general trail along which you had traveled, we 
reached Egowik on the evening of the 16th, and on the 17th stopped 
at Shaktolik, after having traveled during the afternoon in the face 
of a violent snowstorm, which increased during the night to such an 
extent that on the 18th it was impossible to see 20 yards ahead, and 
we were obliged to remain over at the village. 

The morning of the 19th dawned clear, and we resumed our journey 
toward Unaktolik. In the afternoon, about an hour before we reached 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 107 

that village, I met your teams on their way to Unalaklik, but the 
dogs looked pretty well played out, and the two drivers declared they 
could not accompany me to Kotzebue Sound until they had gone to 
Unalaklik and obtained warmer clothing than they had on at the 
time, for they said it was much colder across the portage than in the 
vicinity of St. Michael. I therefore sent a note to Englestadt, asking 
him to send me at least one of these teams and an interpreter, and 
told him I would Avait at Koyuk until I heard from him. We reached 
Unaktolik late in the afternoon, and on the following day crossed the 
head of Norton Sound on the ice and finally came to Ko}'uk, which is 
situated at the mouth of the river bearing the same name. Here I 
discovered that the team belonging to the native trader at this place 
and which I had expected to obtain had left the day before on a trip to 
Unalaklik, and as the native who accompanied me with the extra 
team refused to go any farther, I was obliged to allow him to return, 
and was thus left with one dog team with which to transport 1,600 
pounds across country. 

The following day, therefore, I set out for G-olovin Bay, three days' 
journey to the westward, where there was another of the Alaska 
Commercial Company's trading stations, hoping to be able to procure 
the necessary dogs at that place. Again I was doomed to disappoint- 
ment, however, for on my arrival I learned that all the dogs belonging 
to the station were absent on a trip into the interior of the country. 
A few miles from here was the herd of Government reindeer, and 
there I went next, Mr. Hultberg, the Swedish missionary at Golovin 
Bay, kindly accompanying me to act as interpreter with the Lapps, 
for the superintendent of the herd, Mr. Kettleson, had gone up the 
coast with you and Dr. Call. 

Soon after leaving Golovin Bay I had an excellent demonstration of 
the powers and strength of the Alaskan dogs. Mr. Hultberg had 
loaned me two of his deer, which left the village some time before we 
did, and, as they were both harnessed to one sled, which carried but 
one driver, their load was a light one, and they traveled fast. My 
sled was very heavily loaded, as I was taking back with me some extra 
provisions, rendered necessarjr by my enforced delay and the two 
extra deer drivers I had now to provide for. I had with me two 
natives for guides. Having allowed the deer to get a good distance 
ahead, we started, but my dogs could see the deer, and they started 
after them at such a speed that the two natives and myself could 
scarcely keep up with them, and we all piled on the sled. The weight 
of we three, in addition to the heavy load the sled already carried, 
would have stopped a dog team short under ordinary circumstances, 
but in their eagerness to overtake the deer the dogs did not apparently 
mind the extra weight, and bowled along as fast as ever, and before 
the deer reached the base of the mountain we had to cross, the dogs 
had caught up with them, and it required the united efforts of the two 



108 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

natives and myself to hold them in check. We now held the dogs 
back until the deer could get far in advance up the mountain, and, as 
there was another sled coming behind with a heavy load, I told one of 
my natives to wait for it and help the man who was driving it, for as 
long as my clogs kept the scent of the deer I knew they would not 
need much assistance. Owing to my imperfect knowledge of the lan- 
guage, however, the natives misunderstood me, and both of them 
started back for the rear sled. This released the dogs, and, though I 
dragged back with all my strength, they started up the mountain 
side — a rather steep grade — at a pretty good gait, howling and strain- 
ing in their eagerness to catch the deer, which they imagined would 
afford them a meal, though by this time the wind had increased and 
the snow Avas driving so that I could not see 10 yards ahead, the dogs 
still had the scent. 

Just as the dogs dashed ahead I saw the two natives start back, and 
shouted for one of them to come along, but I saw he could not catch 
us, and the blinding snow soon shut him from my sight. The dogs 
were now racing up a pretty steep grade, dragging a heavy load along, 
at a l-ate I would have thought impossible had I not actually seen it, 
and, as I did not know the proper trail and there was some danger of 
getting lost in the blizzard, I put forth every endeavor to overturn 
the sled, and thus stop the dogs until my native could catch up. I 
found I was unable to do it, however, and then tried the plan of run- 
ning ahead and throwing myself down on the head dogs, but the rest 
of them soon dragged the traces from under me, and the whole team 
would start ahead again. Then I thought if I could get under the 
sled I could raise one side up sufficient to overturn it, so I waited 
until I had caught my breath, and then ran ahead, threw niyself 
between the dogs, caught hold of the middle trace, and allowed myself 
to be dragged along over the snow. This made the dogs slacken their 
pace, but still did not stop them entirely, so I let myself back toward 
the sled, still holding on to the trace, until the whole of my body as 
far as my shoulders was under the sled between the runners. We 
were not going very fast now, and suddenly letting go of the trace, I 
dug my hands in the snow, and raised my back at the same time. This 
threw the sled over on one runner, which capsized it and brought the 
team to a full stop. As soon as I regained my feet and shook the 
snow out of my clothes I discovered I had lost my mittens, tobacco 
pouch, and cap, in the operation, but these articles were returned to 
me by my native, who soon loomed up through the driving snow. He 
had followed the track of the sled, running as fast as he could to catch 
me, and had picked up my missing articles as he came along. By 
this time the snow had covered the tracks of the deer and the dogs 
had lost their scent, and I soon felt almost sorry I had not let them 
keep on, for the rest of the trip up the mountain side was a case of 
"push the sled." 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 109 

When we reached the summit and started down the other side we 
found the blizzard was local and confined to the side of the mountain 
we had just come up, so we had a quick trip to the foot, where the 
Government deer camp was established. After considerable talking 
I managed to secure from the Lapp herder in charge, five deer, five 
sleds, and one driver, and as I had obtained two deer, one sled, and a 
driver from Mr. Hultberg, I returned to Koyuk with this outfit, 
reaching there on the 30th. 

I found upon my arrival there two extra dog teams that the trader 
at Unalakleet had managed to send me, so I now had three dog sleds 
and four deer sleds to carry my load, for two of the deer sleds were 
for the use of the drivers, and no other Aveight could be put on them. 
The next two days a violent wind and snow storm prevailed, render- 
ing traveling dangerous, and it was not until February 2d that we 
finally got started across the country bound for Kotzebue Sound. 

On the hills along the shores of Norton Sound and Bay, and on the 
banks of the rivers flowing into these waters, there is scrubby pine 
and spruce in abundance, from Unalaklik to Golovin Bay, but after 
crossing this bay to the west shore no more timber is seen on or near 
the coast until Hotham Inlet is reached. 

Two hundred pounds were put on each of the deer sleds and the 
remaining S00 divided between the three dog sleds, but the deer proved 
to be unequal to their task, and two days later we were obliged to 
reduce the load on the deer sleds to 150 pounds each, transferring the 
surplus to the dog sleds which were, of course, getting lighter all the 
time as the dog food was consumed. We traveled along the Koyuk 
River the first day, but, as the snow was so deep and soft that the 
dogs sank nearly out of sight, we were obliged to tramp back and 
forth on our suowshoes ahead of the dog teams, beating down the 
snow to enable them to drag the sleds along, so that we made but 
15 miles during the day, and that night camped on the banks of the 
river where the brush Avas thick and plenty of dead sticks for fireAvood 
was available. 

The next day, the 3d, we had much the same sort of road during 
the forenoon, but after Ave had stopped in the middle of the day for 
something to eat, the guide struck across the tundra to aA r oid a long 
bend in the river, and Ave found the going very much better, for the 
wind had blown aAvay the loose suoav during the night, leaAang a fairly 
hard surface to traA r el OA r er. We Avere noAV nearing the head Avaters 
of the Koyuk, and began to come across isolated clumps of scrubby 
pine trees, in one of Avhich Ave made our camp for the night, haAdng 
traA r eled about 20 miles since morning. 

On the 4th Ave left the Koyuk RiA r er, after a few hours' travel, and 

struck across the country, reaching that night the banks of one of 

the small streams forming the head Avaters of the Buckland River, or, 

as the natiA^es call it, the Kongak. From here Ave folloAved the gen- 

15390 14 



110 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

eral com-se of this river to its month, keeping most of the time on the 
bank and cutting across the tundi-a to avoid the many bends and 
twists of this winding stream, and finally reached Escholtz Bay on 
the evening of the 8th. 

The country between Norton Sound and Escholtz Bay is very hilly 
and mountainous, but when not traveling on the rivers our guide 
escaped climbing any of the mountains by leading us along gentle 
rolling valleys, from which we could see the hills and mountains 
surrounding us, apparently, in all directions, but the guide appeared 
thoroughly familiar with the country, for he wound in and out among 
these hills, and generally managed to keep to a pretty level road. 
We crossed and sometimes followed for a while quite a number of 
small streams, all of which I learned were tributary to either the 
Koyuk or the Buckland river. Deer moss was abundant along our 
entire route, and the guide declared that the whole of the surround- 
ing country was of the same character. Indeed, native tradition has 
it that in past years the wild deer were plentiful in that section of the 
country, and even of late years small scattering herds are sometimes 
seen. Along the rivers brush is plentiful, and a considerable number 
of small scrubby pine trees grow on the hills and on the banks along 
the upper part of these streams near their head waters. 

Although the country through which the guide led us was prac- 
tically uninhabited, but two isolated and migratory families being 
met with, we came across several clusters of old, half -destroyed native 
huts, which the guide told me used to be villages, and for each of 
which he had a name. The people who used to live here were either 
all dead or had removed to some distant part of the countiy, so that 
now no one lived permanently on these two rivers. This seemed 
strange to me, for there were plenty of trees for firewood, and I saw 
hundreds of tracks of fox, beaver, martin, and other animals, and in 
the summer there must be plenty of fish in the rivers, but the guide 
offered no explanation as to why the natives had left such good 
hunting grounds, except that he guessed they wanted to go some- 
where else. 

"When we left Koyuk I was anxious as to how the combination of 
deer and Eskimo dogs would work, for the latter have not yet learned 
to appreciate the difference between the domestic and the wild deer, 
and their instinct teaches them to attack a deer whenever they come 
across one of them. It was all right during the daj 7 , for then the dogs 
were harnessed to the sleds and could be restrained, but at night, when 
the dogs were turned loose, there was some danger of them getting 
among the deer and either killing them or causing a stampede. This 
difficulty Avas surmounted, however, by driving the deer train a mile 
or two to the leeward of our canip and picketing the deer with long 
lariats at a good feeding ground, as bj 7 this arrangement the dogs 
could not scent the deer and would remain quietly at the camp all 
night. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. Ill 

During this trip across the peninsular I was much surprised to find 
that the performance of the deer was not nearly up to the expecta- 
tions I had formed from hearing of their powers, for there Avas not a 
single day that the deer train was able to keep up with the dog teams, 
and frequently we were in camp and had the supper prepared long 
before the deer hove in sight. The load on the deer sleds was A^ery 
light (but 150 pounds), and the moss was plentiful; yet I was obliged 
to remain in camp one day on the Buckland River to allow the deer to 
rest, and when we reached the mouth of the river the drivers informed 
me that the deer would give out unless they had another day's rest 
before going on. 

At the mouth of the Buckland River, on the west bank, are the 
remains of an old and deserted village called Inooktut, and about a 
mile farther up the river on the same side is an old log house built by 
a white trader some years ago, which was occupied, when we arrived, 
by an old native man and woman, together with their one son. We 
camped in this house on the night of the 8th and remained there for 
the whole of the 9th in order to allow the deer to rest, but on the 
evening of the latter day, when I began to make arrangements for the 
next day's move, the natives with me refused to go any farther. They 
would give no reason for their refusal, which Avas quite in keeping 
with the native custom, for when they make up their minds to do or 
not to do a certain thing, they do not see the need of offering any reason 
for their action, if, indeed, they have a treason save that of following 
the bent of their inclinations. Here Avas a serious state of affairs, for 
there Avere yet some 80 or 90 miles to be traveled before reaching 
Cape Blossom, my provisions were badly needed at that place, and I 
was behindhand as it was, owing to the delay in getting transportation 
at the head of Norton Bay ; and the nearest village at which I would 
be able to procure more dogs was several days' journey from here. 

My interpreter, a half-breed Russian, had been listening to the con- 
versation among the natives, and he informed me he drew from their 
talk that they realized I was unable to obtain other means of trans- 
portation in that out-of-the-Avay place, and thought it was a good time 
to force me to increase their pa}', thus showing a marked similarity to 
the actions of some of their more enlightened white brethren in civili- 
zation. But there was no help for it, as I was obliged to have their 
teams, so I was forced to listen to their demands. They finally decided 
to go on with me to Cape Blossom if I would agree to pay them about 
double the original consideration, and, in addition, engage the sled and 
team belonging to the old man in whose house we were staying. Being- 
anxious to go on, and feeling myself entirely dependent upon the 
assistance of their teams, for the deer had shown their inability to . 
carry much of a load, I agreed to their conditions, but made a mental 
reservation to hold them to their original agreement when we had 
reached the point I was aiming for and I could dispense with their 
sleds and services. 



112 CRUISE OF THE U. S. KEVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

On the morning of February 10, therefore, we were again on the 
move, and after traversing Escholtz Bay on the ice we crossed the 
narrow neck of land on the southern end of the Choris Peninsula, 
and camped for the night on the shores of Kotzebue Sound, on the 
site of a deserted village, which furnished us with firewood. The 
next day we proceeded along the shore to the northward, and as the 
ice was smooth we made splendid time, reaching the native village of 
Kikiktaruk, about 15 miles north of Cape Blossom, on the evening of 
the 11th, having made a little over 50 miles during the day. The 
deer were unable to travel that distance in one day, so the drivers 
camped on the way and reached the village the following forenoon. 
Here I found Rev. Robert Sanims, a Quaker missionary, with his wife 
and young ladjr assistant, and, having learned from them that neither 
you nor the deer herd had as yet passed that way, I proceeded to 
make myself as comfortable as was possible in my tent, for their 
house was so very small that it barely served for those who already 
occupied it. 

At this place there are but five native huts, with a population of 
some thirty people, the remnants of a once numerous and prosperous 
people, but the scarcity of food in later years has compelled the migra- 
tion of this tribe also, so that now there are but few of the old inhabi- 
tants left, and they are so very poor that starvation almost continually 
stares them in the face. A few miles to the southward of this place 
is what is known as the "Rendezvous," where the natives from all 
over the countiy assemble during the summer months to trade among 
themselves and with the vessels that happen along. They even come 
from as far as East Cape, on the Siberian coast; but of late years the 
influx of white men into the country has lessened the necessity for the 
natives coming so far to trade among themselves, and where in former 
times there were at this summer encampment many thousands of peo- 
ple, now 1,000 is a large number, and this number is growing less each 
year. 

I had intended to settle with my natives the next day and send 
them back, but as you arrived the next evening I turned over my 
whole outfit to you at that time. After 3 r ou and Dr. Call left for Point 
Hope on the 15th, I occupied the time, while waiting for Lopp and the 
deer herd, by hauling firewood from the mouth of the Noatuk River 
to replace that which we had used from Mr. Samm's supply, for there 
was no driftwood nearer to the village, than over on the mainland at the 
mouth of the above-mentioned river. Mr. Samm's thermometer was 
now registering between 35 and 45° below zero, and as I was obliged 
to live in my tent, waiting was very disagreeable under these condi- 
tions, and I was very glad when Lopp arrived on the 18th. He had 
crossed on the ice with the deer herd from Cape Espenberg to Cape 
Kruzenstern, reaching the latter place the previous morning. 

At the village of Anyok, near Kruzenstern, he was given your letter 
telling him where I was waiting for him, and he had come over to 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 113 

Kikiktaruk with dog teams, leaving his deer behind for a rest. As 
all my natives and their teams had been sent back to Koyuk, and you 
had taken my own team with you, I traded with the natives of Kikik- 
taruk for a sled and a few dogs, upon which I carried my pei'sonal 
outfit and camp gear, and on the 19th Lopp and I started for Anyok, 
packing the provisions on the dog teams he had brought, and the deer 
train I had brought with me, which, according to your instructions, I 
still retained and now turned over to Lopp for service with his herd. 
He was very glad to get these seven extra deer, for several of his own 
sled deer had died since leaving Cape Prince of Wales. 

We reached Anyok on the evening of the 19th, and as the weather 
did not look promising it was decided not to start from that place 
until the 21st, by which time the deer herd would be pretty well 
rested. On the morning of the 21st the sled deer were caught and 
harnessed, the sleds packed, and the whole outfit moved up the coast to 
the westward, I keeping with Lopp, but having my own dog team and 
guide, so as not to add to his load. The next few days we had a suc- 
cession of violent blizzards, rendering it impossible to make much 
headway, and causing us to lose two whole days, during which time it 
was impossible to travel at all, in consequence of which it Avas not 
until the 27th that we reached the mouth of the Kivalena River. Dur- 
ing one of these storms a small number of deer became separated 
from the main herd and were lost, but were afterwards recovered and 
cared for as set forth in my report to Captain Tuttle, dated July 15, 1898. 

In accordance with your instructions I now parted from Lopp and 
the deer herd and proceeded up the coast toward Point Hope. When 
I reached Cape Seppings on the 28th I learned from some natives 
that you had gone back to the Kivalena River to meet Lopp, so I 
waited there until your return on March 2, when I accompanied you 
to Point Hope. 

From Cape Kruzenstern to Point Hope the shore is lined with an 
almost continual succession of lagoons from two to five miles in width, 
except where the mountains come down to the sea at Capes Seppings 
and Thompson. These lagoons are separated from the sea by a nar- 
row sand spit, which, being covered with snow during the winter, 
forms an excellent trail along which to travel from the sound to Point 
Hope. Some of these lagoons are connected by small openings with 
the sea, but the most of them are entirely isolated and are really 
lakes. On the inside, where the foothills begin, the deer moss is abun- 
dant and brush is plentiful, especially along and near the numerous 
small streams that empty into these lagoons; but while there are 
plenty of trees about the mouths of the Noatuk and Kowak rivers 
and on the hills as far as Cape Kruzenstern, no timber is seen after 
leaving that cape. Even along the Kivalena, Kookpuk, and Pit- 
megea rivers there is no timber, though there also the brush is plen- 
tiful. All along the sand spit from Kruzenstern to Point Hope drift- 
wood is abundant, and is replenished each year by the trees that the 



114 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

rivers flowing into the sound bring down during the freshets after the 
ice breaks up in the summer. This is nature's provision for the fuel 
for the Eskimo. 

Though the coast from Kruzenstern to Cape Seppings is uninhab- 
ited, we came across the remains of several old and deserted villages 
scattered at intervals along our route, and my guide informed me that 
in former years many people lived along these shores, and gained 
their living by hunting the seal, walrus, and whale; but as the whale 
and walrus have been gradually driven north by the vessels hunting 
them, these people have been obliged to migrate to better hunting 
grounds, and are now scattered about in different parts of the country. 

An account of my movements and services from the time of my 
arrival at Point Hope until I rejoined the Bear the following July is 
detailed in the report to Captain Tuttle, already referred to, which 
report was made in accordance with the written instructions with 
which you furnished me, prior to your departure from Point Hope for 
Point Barrow. 

Respectfully, yours, E. P. Bertholf, 

Second Lieutenant, B. C. S. 

First Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, R. C. S., 

Commanding Overland Belief Expedition. 



REPORT OF SURG. S. J. CALL, R. C. S. 

September 1, 1898. 

Sir: In accordance with your instructions, I have the honor to sub- 
mit the following medical report of the Overland Relief Expedition 
during the eight months of travel and isolatiou from the time we 
were put upon the beach at Cape Vancouver, December 16, 1897, 
until the U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear arrived and returned with us 
August 16, 1898. 

Knowing from past experience in the Arctic that all whaling vessels, 
before leaving San Francisco, were furnished with a medical chest 
containing most of the ordinary medical and surgical supplies, I did 
not deem it necessary to take more medicines than Avere needed 
for our own immediate use and that of any special case met with on 
the tramp. My outfit, therefore, consisted of a small leather grip con- 
taining, besides a few general remedies in tablet form, the following: 

1 pocket surgical case. 

1 hypodermic case. 

1 stethoscope. 

$ pound lint. 

1 roll rubber adhesive plaster, 1 inch. 

1 fever thermometer. 



1 dozen assorted surgical bandages. 
$ roll isinglass plaster. 
i dozeu surgical sponges. 
I dozen pair snow glasses. 
i dozen toothbrushes. 



On account of the prospective low temperature the liquid prepara- 
tions were reduced to a minimum, and were, 8 ounces A. C. E. mixture, 




LU 
H 
Z 

5 



z 

o 

> 

id 

15 
< 
_l 

> 

> 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 115 

•4 ounces tincture chloride of iron, 4: ounces Friar balsam, and one- 
third dozen extract ginger. 

The medicine grip was an object of considerable care, and was 
always given the warmest and most protected part of the sled, tent, 
or kazheem. By taking this precaution none of the liquid medicines 
was destroyed by freezing. 

At Tununak, the people were in the midst of an epidemic of influ- 
enza, varying in intensity from the nasal and laryngeal catarrh to the 
more serious complications of bronchitis and pneumonia. This Avas 
quite serious and interfered to some extent in the selection of our 
guides, as in. the case of Kalenin's son, whose attack of pneumonia 
compelled him to remain behind. 

The start was made on the 18th of December, 1897, and while those 
in charge of the expedition continued well, the natives on the third 
and fourth day began to sIioav signs of exhaustion. Their coughs 
grew worse, and after a short run or spell at the lead, they would 
return to the sleds complaining of pains in the head and chest and 
remain until almost driven again to their work. Quinine during the 
day and Dover's powders at night, with an occasional dose of tincture 
of ginger, enabled them to reach Andreafski, where Karpa, our lead- 
ing guide, was left in the hands of friends. 

At the Kennedy River, a branch of the Yukon, where the steamers 
Alice, Merwin, and Divyer were in winter quarters, the two remain- 
ing natives who had come with us from the coast Avere pronounced 
unfit for further travel and left there. This epidemic of influenza 
must have spread throughout the whole Yukon delta, as Lieutenant 
Bertholf reports that he, too, was much annoyed in the same way as 
ourselves, and before reaching St. Michael Alex. Kalenin's attack had 
resulted in pneumonia and became so serious that the patient was 
carried on the sled from Cape Romanoff to St. Michael, where he 
remained for two months under the care of Dr. Edie, the post surgeon. 

TJnaMolik, January 7. — An interesting case of native surgery was 
met Avith here. There Avere three persons, an old man. his wife, and 
his son, occupying two small huts. Noticing that the old man's legs 
were off at the middle third, I inquired the cause, and was told by the 
old woman that a few years ago he was caught out in a blizzard and 
had his feet and legs frozen, and that later she had chopped off the 
frozen part with a long knife. From Unaktolik across and along the 
shores of Norton Sound to G-olovin Bay and on to Point Rodney, 
Artisarlook's home, there was no call from the expedition for my 
services. 

The following day after your departure from Point Rodney your 
instructions were attended to, and the reindeer herd and equipment 
gotten under Avay to join you northeast of Cape Prince of Wales. In 
these eleA^en days nothing serious occurred. Among the minor inci- 
dents and frostbites that gaA r e but little trouble there was one, how- 



116 CltUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

ever, on January 17, which taught me a lesson that I did not soon for- 
get, and by which others may profit. We were slowly advancing along 
the coast, just north of Apiktalluk, in one of those indescribable bliz- 
zards with the thermometer 30° below zero and the velocity of the wind 
about 40 miles an hour. The deer lines attached to my left arm 
became loose, and to tighten them I removed my deerskin mit. My 
hand was moist and warm, but in about twenty seconds after coming 
in contact with the cold air it had lost all sensation, and required ten 
or fifteen minutes of vigorous slapping to restore the circulation. 

Sinerazat, February 6th. — This marks the beginning of a few of the 
most interesting daj's of our tramp. Perninjmk, an Eskimo doctor, 
was engaged as guide to Point Hope. His reputation as a "big medi- 
cine man" extends from Port Clarence to Point Hope, and before 
many "sleeps" had passed I was made aware of my insignificance. 
All along the route he was asked for his professional services, and on 
several occasions, you remember, he became so eloquent and demon- 
strative that we were compelled to retire. "Shamanism " is fast losing 
its attraction, and superstitious power upon the younger generation, 
being practiced now mostly by the older generation and by those 
having little intercourse with the white people. Formerly this Eskimo 
astrologer was all powerful, and often used his calling as a means of 
gratifying his own personal desires and ambitions. For example, at 
Piont Barrow a native was taken sick; he called in his "devil driver," 
the doctor, and though he had paid him well for the few seances, he did 
not recover, and was then informed by the doctor that the compensa- 
tion was too little and unless he paid more he would never recover. 
The " shaman " levied another tax of whalebone, ammunition, fur, 
and clothes, and soon his patient was able to be around. Then the 
medical attendant informed the poor man that unless he served him 
for two years, body and soul, giving all he possessed at the time and 
all he might earn during his two years of slavery, he would again 
suffer, and finally die. The poor, deluded patient served his time 
without a murmur, and even if the demand had been made for his 
wife or daughter there was no alternative but to submit. 

As to the shaman's or Eskimo's belief in a future state there is lit- 
tle known. Their customs sometimes lead one to think they expect to 
return to earth after death, as the following incident will illustrate : 
A Point Hope woman died before giving birth to her child. Three 
days afterwards, three or four old women, armed with their flint 
knives, repaired to the place of burial, removed the body of the child, 
and buried it. Being asked why they did this, they answered that if 
a woman died under the above circumstances she could not return to 
the earth again after death. They have no conception of the Deity, 
their one fear being the devil's power, and the one great thought and 
desire is to appease the wrath of his satanic majesty. If this fails, 
then they resort to means to frighten him, and this accounts for those 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 117 

terrifying dancing costumes, fits, trances, tricks, and sleight-of-hand 
performances which characterize one of these howling meetings. 

Point Barrow, April 1. — At the Belvedere, when we arrived on the 
26th ultimo, there were seven or eight cases of disease treated, the 
most serious being Captain Millard, avIio had been dangerously ill all 
winter with chronic cystitis. 

On the 30th, the next morning after our arrival at Point Barrow, 
the shipwrecked men and their quarters were inspected. Those few 
occupying quarters with C. T>. Brower and E. A. Mcllhenny Avere in 
fairly good health. Coming to the old "Kelly house," the worst state 
of affairs existed. The 70 or 80 men were in a most pitiable condi- 
tion. Their white, emaciated faces looked like specters as they peered 
at us from their cold, dark, and frosty berths. They were in all stages 
of weakness, exhaustion, and despair. Four cases of scurvy had devel- 
oped, two of which were in a dangerous stage of the disease; others 
complained of dysentery, loss of appetite, and insomnia. The remedy 
was close at hand, and consisted of removal, better food and clothing, 
and the enforcement of hygienic regulations and exercise. The scurvy 
cases were put upon an increasing diet of fresh meat, and tincture of 
iron and lime juice prescribed. This last remedy, being on hand in 
limited quantities only, was reserved for such cases as they occurred. 
Under this new regime and the medical treatment, the beneficial 
results were quickly apparent, and before the month of April had 
passed all the seriously sick men were able to be out and take the 
prescribed exercise. 

Dr. Richmond Marsh, the Presbyterian missionary, up to this time 
had furnished medicines and services whenever called upon. The 
doctor received me kindly, and though our schools differed materi- 
ally, he extended to me, both professionally and personally, during my 
stay at Point Barrow, many courtesies, without Which I would have 
worked to a great disadvantage. He was well supplied with medicines 
and surgical apparatus, all of which he freely placed at my disposal. 

Another source of medical supplies was due to the forethought of 
Mr. C. D. Brower, Avho secured from the wrecked ship Navarcli, on 
one of her almost miraculous visits, the well-filled medicine chest she 
had on board and transported it to his house. There were also a few 
medicines at the old refuge station, the remains of the Government 
snppty before the station was abandoned. These were handed over 
to me by Mr. Mcllhenny.. I note this with much satisfaction, as the 
people in almost every village, as we journeyed overland to Point 
Barrow, required my professional services and had drawn so heavily 
on my medical supplies that very little remained. 

About April 10, while tearing down the old "Kelly house," some 
of the boards containing rusty nails were left lying around, and the 
result Avas that several of the creAv were seriously crippled with punc- 
tured feet. 



118 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

The tooth forceps were A r ery useful, and many of the men escaped 
nights and days of torture by the removal of an offending "grinder." 

Sunday, May 1. — The first month of Government and medical 
supervision showed a most gratifying change in the health and spirits 
of the shipwrecked crews, and the only serious case of sickness was 
that of Lieutenant Jarvis, who was attacked on the 11th instant with 
tonsilitis. It proved to be quite serious and continued for a week, 
necessitating the postponement of his tour of inspection of the ves- 
sels to the eastward. 

Tuesday, June 7. — About 9 p. m. an Eskimo arrived from the ice 
pack and reported to Dr. Marsh that one of their boat headers had 
been accidentally shot through the arm with a whale bomb. The doc- 
tor immediately repaired to the scene, about four miles away, and found 
the patient almost dead from hemorrhage, the bomb having passed 
through the wrist of the left hand. The "shaman" had been called, 
and after applying a tourniquet around the arm between the shoulder 
and elbow, outside the heavy fur clothing (being loosely applied, it 
failed to stop the flow of blood), he began his customary incantations. 
Seeing that the devil was getting the better of him, he had sent the dog 
team for help, but left the patient alone on the ice. Dr. Marsh quickly 
applied another and more efficient bandage, placed the patient on the 
sled and brought him in ; but by the time he reached me he was nearly 
dead from shock and loss of blood. In a short time, after the hypo- 
dermics of strychnine and brand}', the old fellow slowly raised his 
head and feebly announced that he would die. The wound was par- 
tially examined, dressed, and the man made comfortable for the night, 
and the next morning, after a thorough examination, it was decided 
not to amputate. About a week later, being obliged to make a trip 
to the eastward to inspect the vessels there, the patient was left in 
charge of Dr. Marsh. When I returned, the first visit Avas to see the 
injured man, and upon asking the doctor how he was, he replied that, 
against his instructions, his charge had consulted a "devil driver," 
and he had decided not to do anj 7 thing more for him. The patient's 
wound showed the want of dairy dressing, and, removing him near 
my quarters, he was fed and treated until our departure, when he 
had so far recovered that he had a fairly iiseful hand. In order to 
understand the nature of such an accident, it is necessary to know 
just what a whale bomb is. These projectiles are made of brass, and 
are about 10 inches long and one inch in diameter. The point is trian- 
gular and has three sharp cutting edges, the head having a one-eighth 
inch projecting rim. Considering the relation of the eight small 
bones of the carpus with the branches of the radial and ulnar arteries 
and nerves, it seems incredible that such an instrument should pass 
through these parts without severing one of the main arteries and 
causing death from hemorrhage. 

Often, one is sorely tempted to adopt the Dr. Marsh's plan of dealing 
with the Eskimo in reference to shamanism, for while there is no 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 119 

question that it is useless and very often does much haimi, one can not 
m a day change or destroy the native habits and traditions by such 
methods of opposition, any more than can one expect his missionary 
views to be accepted by many of the white residents, if one adopts a 
spirit of antagonism. I believe the final result of medical treatment 
and care of this man did more to weaken his faith in the "devil 
driver" than the refusal to do anything for him. When he after- 
wards brought me several valuable slabs of whalebone as payment 
for my services, it was, of course, refused, and he then realized that 
the "white doctor "was an improvement in many ways over his native 
"devil driver." 

On Friday, May 20, Lieutenant Jarvis returned from an inspection 
tour of the vessels, and soon after felt an "itching and tightness" 
about his forehead. He applied a cooling lotion containing, among 
other ingredients, gum tragacanth and glycerine, but his forehead 
became in a few hours twice its original size, yet without a symptom 
of pain. This condition continued to increase for a few days, and 
before it disappeared the affection had attacked the whole face and at 
one time closed his eyes completely. The affection was one of local 
cellulitis and was due to the fact that all Avinter his forehead had been 
protected from exposure, while on the day of his arrival from this last 
trip, the weather being unusualty warm, he had thrown back the hood 
of his "artigge," thus permitting the direct rays of the sun to beat 
down upon his brow. The treatment was left to nature entirely, and 
when the affection reached the numerous lymphatics of the neck it 
soon disappeared. 

Thursday, May 26. — At 12.45 p. m. I left the house on a sick call 
to the vessels in the ice 100 miles to the eastward. There were three 
sleds, two of which Avere loaded Avith deer meat, and the third, to 
which I was assigned, carried food for the dogs, consisting of Avhite 
whale meat obtained during a recent hunt. The Aveather had been 
mild and the snow was soft and slushy, and for many miles Ave Avere 
compelled to make our Avay over hummocks of ice and to wade through 
depressions filled with water. We finally reached the first A r essel on 
the third day, and after an inspection of the ships I found the general 
health of the crews fairly good, the only cases requiring my attention 
being one of nasal polypus, tAvo of dysentery, and three of influenza. 
The care and cleanliness observed on these A^essels, especially on the 
Newport, showed that their captains had taken every precaution 
against sickness and disease. 

LeaAdng the Newport and Fearless, the two nearer ships, on the 
night of the 5th, I arrived at Point Barrow about midnight on the 6th, 
having been away on this sick call twelve days. 

Tuesday, July 1. — The usual daily medical inspection indicated a 
vast improvement in the men, and though I seldom returned Avithout 
being consulted, it was for some slight acute gastric or intestinal affec- 
tion, which Avas of temporary duration only. Two cases of pneumonia 



120 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

among- the Eskimos occurred, but as in each case only a small area of 
one lung was affected, they recovered. I mention this because never 
yet among these people have I met with a case of double pneumonia 
that was not fatal. 

The only death at Point Barrow which I have to report is that of 
Philip Maun, who died suddenly on the ice about 7 p. m. June 8. 
He was about 50 years of age and, having symptoms of heart trouble, 
had been cautioned against engaging in any violent exercise. Imme- 
diately after eating an unusually hearty meal he assisted in starting 
a sled and began running along with the outfit, when he suddenly fell 
upon the ice and expired. At the autopsy, which I performed the 
next day, assisted by Dr. Marsh, it was ascertained that he died of 
fatty heart. 

On Saturday, June 25, at 9.30 a. in., with one Eskimo, I set out on 
a sick call to the Belvedere, lying in the ice 60 miles to the southward. 
My equipment consisted of five dogs and a sled, carrying our sleeping- 
bags, food, medicines, shotgun, and ammunition. There being no 
snow on the land, we were compelled to take to the ice along the coast. 
The past warm weather, melting the snow and breaking out the lakes 
and lagoons, had covered the shore ice with water and broken it up 
to such an extent that our progress was slow and the work very hard, 
so that we were three days in reaching the ship. 

Captain Millard had improved greatly since our arrival on the 20th 
of last March. There were only two other cases requiring treatment, 
one of dysentery and the other of heart trouble. Remaining here 
three days, I left on the morning of the 30th of June, and, after another 
four days of hard hauling through the rain and sleet, I arrived at Point 
Barrow July 3, having been gone nine daj^s. 

Thursday, July 28. — In the past four months there have been sev- 
eral childbirths among the Eskimos, and their management of an 
accouchement, when compared with our civilized methods, is extremely 
interesting, if not instructive. 

As a rule parturition among a people so purely natural is attended 
with no bad results, but when customs and traditions prevent them 
from extending to their women the care and kindness they give to 
their dogs, it is often attended with fatal consequences. Every 
woman, married or single, must rely upon herself entirely, in the 
lying-in snow house. When the time arrives, she must retire to 
some hut or tent, sometimes previously prepared for her, and there 
go through the ordeal absolutely alone. It may be many degrees 
below freezing, or in the fog, rain, and sleet of a summer blizzard; but 
the superstitions of death, bad luck, and disaster, are so firmly grounded 
in the minds of these simple folk, that not one will venture near her 
while she is in trouble. She assumes a squatting position, with her 
knees apart and sometimes slightly raised by means of a block of 
wood. The legs are flexed upon the thighs, supporting the hips. Thus 
she awaits, and, during the intervals of uterine spasms she pulls from 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 121 

her head eight or ten hairs and plaits them into the ligature which she 
will nse in tying the umbilical cord. Unless some previous interference 
with the life of the child has been attempted, complications seldom 
arise, and the first stage is not of long dui'ation. She takes the human- 
hair string and ties the cord in one place, and cuts it with a flint 
knife, it being considered bad luck to use any other kind of knife. 
The baby is rolled in a piece of deerskin and laid aside until the 
placenta appears, which latter is disposed of by hiding it away. The 
mother seems to have suffered little, for she is soon up, and, the devil's 
spell being broken, she is now permitted to receive the assistance of 
her friends. But it is not always thus, as the following authentic 
cases will show: 

Case 1: Cripple, the result of frostbite; age, 28; pregnant; unmar- 
ried ; bright and industrious. Both legs off at the middle third ; walks 
on her knees, making sometimes four or five miles a day. Sh e occupied 
a hut together with an old native, and, when her time had come, he 
hustled her out in a blinding snowstorm and closed the door. Securing 
three sticks and a piece of canvas she quickly made herself a rude 
shelter, where her child was born, which soon froze to death. The next 
morning she was assisted back into the hut by the whites, when the old 
Eskimo quickly retired through the window, bag and baggage, declar- 
ing that he would soon die; and strange to say he actually did die 
within three weeks' time from that day, thus verifying the native pre- 
diction of death to all who assist a woman in childbirth or remain in 
the same place as the woman during any part of that time. 

Case 2 : While a party of natives were coining from the intei'ior to the 
coast, one of the women, being pregnant, was unexpectedly taken sick. 
Instantly all hands deserted her, and she was left alone on the plain. 
Her child was born, but the placenta failed to be delivered. Both 
mother and child died, and the scene was never again visited. 

Case 3 : Woman returning home along the beach gave birth to a 
child. She removed the placenta, placed the child to one side of 
the trail, and then proceeded to the village and engaged in her usual 
duties. Some parties afterwards found the child, which had died, and 
buried it. 

These horrible customs are no respecter of persons, and the most 
influential are often subjected to this same inhuman treatment. The 
maternal instinct of every Eskimo woman, married or unmarried, 
generally prevents any desire to destroy her offspring before or after 
birth, and consequently abortions are rare. When, however, the 
destruction of the fetus is attempted, it is done by jumping on or 
kneading the abdomen, or by giving a stroke or slap over these parts. 
Violent exercise, work, or sport, will sometimes cause this uninten- 
tional loss, the most frequent caiise being the blanket tossing. 

Surgery is crudely practiced by the medicine men, and their treat- 
ment of simple fractures is deserving of considerable credit. Placing 

the limb in as natural a position as their ignorance of anatomy will 
1539(5 15 



122 CRUISE OF THE IT. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

admit, they apply strips of thin wood or whalebone and secure them 
with bandages, or by tying. Dislocations fare badly, and their man- 
agement is similar to that of a fracture, the result being very often a 
useless limb. 

Hemorrhage from an extremity receives a constrictor of some sort, 
but often it is looselj 7 and improperly applied, and death is the result. 
Nature in surgery, as in many other instances, comes to their rescue. 
There are now natives hobbling around at Point Barrow with the loss 
of one or both legs, hands, or arms, who had no assistance from white 
men or a surgeon, and I might say that almost all of these cases are 
due to frostbite. In time, the dead and frozen stump having no sensa- 
tion, is cut and chopped awaj 7 bj" some member of the family, and 
after a long and slow process of granulation and sloughing, healing 
follows. For some reason the Eskimo refuses to wear artificial limbs. 
Cases operated on nearly ten years ago are still on their knees, and 
the amount of work and traveling the} 7 do is astonishing. 

Before closing this interesting subject, I must speak of some of the 
amputations performed by one or two of the captains of the whaling 
fleet. Their fearlessness and the results are sometimes remarkable, 
and Avould call forth the praise of our most expert operators. I men- 
tion in this connection Capt. George B. Leavitt, who lately commanded 
the steam whaler Newport, who wrote as follows : 

I am glad I have the dates of most of the amputations since the ships began 
wintering at Herschel Island. The first was on a man belonging to the Mary D. 
Hume in March, 1891. Half the right foot was taken off, the instrument used 
being a butcher knife and a hack saw, Captain Tilton bossing the job. It was 
the first attempt of the kind up there, and putting the patient under chloroform 
(which was out of our line) was a slow process. We placed the bottle under the 
man's nose, and after he had taken a whiff we would ask him if he were sleepy. 
This was kept up for half an hour without any effect. We then made a paper 
cone, put in some waste saturated with chloroform, and the man went right off. 
It was a cut square across the foot. After the cutting, the edges were drawn 
together as far as they would come and gauze, well greased, placed over the cut, 
followed by absorbent cotton saturated with Friar's balsam. After four da}-s 
the bandages were removed and fresh ones put on in the same manner. For a 
wash we used carbolic acid. It turned out well, but the big toe, or the bone the 
big toe grows on. was a long time healing. Two large toes and three fingers were 
amputated the same month: Tilton "head surgeon,"' and Bodtish and myself 
assistants. 

March 9, 1S94. — Both feet, or the best part of both feet, were amputated from a 
man belonging to the Norwhal. These feet were taken off well back, the same 
way as with the other amputations, with the differeuce that after the foot was cut 
to the bone, a piece of canvas was put on and the flesh hauled back and the bones 
then cut off. In this way a flap was formed, and the whole business turned out 
very well indeed. 

December 9, 1S94- — Si x fingers and three toes were amputated from a man 
belonging to the Thrasher. Captain Tilton was the head surgeon, while Bodfish 
and myself were the assistants. 

December 2S, 1S95. — Amputated a finger from the right hand of Mr. Tilton. the 
second officer of the Alexander. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR 123 

February 3. 1896. — Amputated a finger from a man belonging to the Jeannette. 

February 17, 1S06. — Amputated part of one foot from a man belonging to the 
Beluga. From the time this man was put under the influence of chloroform until 
he came to, only thirty minutes intervened. Iodoform was the only antiseptic I 
used in all my surgery. After such operations as these I used cocaine or morphine 
(whichever I happened to have) to deaden the pain, using from half to a full 
grain, as was necessary. My next big contract was taking off the right arm of 
Mr. West, the third officer of the Navarch, on June 20, 1896. The arm was 
amputated a few inches below the shoulder, cleaning off all the burnt flesh. In 
putting a ligature on the large artery, gut was used. The small veins were touched 
with caustic. After bandaging the arm, a compress was kept on, in case of acci- 
dent, until the ligature was removed. On the 28th of June I had to make a 
second operation, this time laying open the whole shoulder, and taking the bone 
off to within an inch of the joint. Disarticulation, as I understand it, means 
unjointing. Well. I did not do that, but left, I should say, one inch clear of the 
joint. 

The other case of amputation of the arm was in the case of the native boy } r ou 
saw. Outside of a few fingers and toes, these are all the amputations I know of 
on white men. 

From December 28, 1895, all surgical work was done by me, with Captains 
Bodfish. Cook, and McKenna assisting. Chloroform was used in every case, with 
no bad resiilts. 

All the subjects we worked on have truned out well, and some of them better 
than the case you saw. I have not studied medicine nor done any dissecting, nor 
had I ever seen anything of the kind done, until I was compelled to do it while at 
Herschel Island. 

Yours, sincerely, George B. Leavitt. 

Snow blindness is the most troublesome and frequent acute affec- 
tion of the long Arctic day. The first cases were met with about the 
1st of May, and occurred as often on the moist, hazy days as in the 
bright, clear weather. The onset is sudden and intensely painful. 
Photophobia and ecchymosis are always present in a marked degree. 
The treatment consists of rest, smoked glasses of different degrees, and 
a mixture composed of cocaine, grs. viii, and boracic acid (powdered) 
grs. s, and water, f i. Use 4 or 5 drops in the eye every two or three 
hours. Most of the cases treated were natives occupied in hauling 
deer meat from the interior or whaling on the ice floe. 

Rheumatism, I believe, is rare, the most pronounced case coming 
under my observation being that of a native called " McG-intj'"." He 
had been confined to his bed with the chronic articular variety, for 
two and a half years. Little remained of him save a skeleton of large 
and distorted joints covered with skin, reminding one of an Aleutian 
mummy. 

Influenza attacks the natives soon after the snow disappears and 
again just before the cold and frosts of winter. Not only does this 
occur at Point Barrow during these months, but it is so throughout 
the whole coast of Alaska from Attu to the Mackenzie River. Like 
the "grip," unless complications arise it runs a short and mild course. 
At Cape Prince of Wales, however, I understood from Mr. Lopp that 
the attacks were quite fatal, 19 men having died this spring. For the 



124 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

cough, rinitis, and headache, so troublesome in this affection, I have 
found the following prescription an excellent one, and carry it on 
board in large quantities: Ammo, mur., 3i; codeine, grs. iii; spts. chlo- 
roform, 3iii; misturpe glycyrrh comp., ad. §vi. A tablespoouf ul three 
times a day. 

Scurvy seems to confine its attacks, so far as my observations go, 
to white people entirely. I quote from a recent authority, who says: 
"It is a constitutional maladj r , due to the consumption of improper 
diet, and especially to the employment of a diet chai*acterized by the 
absence of vegetables;" and again, " absence of variety of diet, bad 
water, poorly ventilated quarters, and insufficient exercise favor the 
development of this disease," all of which is true enough when speak- 
ing of the highly developed nervous organization of the white race; 
but for the phlegmatic, indifferent, nerveless Eskimo these theories 
do not hold good. Their diet is not a varied one, and vegetables are 
comparatively unknown to them. Their houses have scarcely any 
ventilation, winter keeps the majority close indoors without exercise, 
and the water in summer is often quite bad. Among them and the 
natives, of the Aleutian Islands I have met with less than a dozen cases 
approaching this disease. These were in children from one to six 
years of age, and there was some doubt about the diagnosis beiug 
correct. Neither do these people have any opportunity of using 
sodium or potassium salts, the absence of which is given as one of the 
causes of the malady. The consumption of quantities of uncooked 
food, oils, fats, and their poorly developed nervous organization are 
certainly important factors in producing immunity from scurvy among 
the Eskimo. 

Syphilis, except in the sequelae, was not seen among the wrecked 
people. There was one case of neglected specific iritis, which had 
passed through the acute stage, resulting in the loss of vision and 
adherent iris. The patient did not improve under treatment. 
Among the Eskimo this disease, in the primary stage, is not met with 
as often as the profession and laity are led to believe. My experience 
on this coast of Alaska, from Point Barrow to Attu, dates from 18S5, 
and I must confess that I never yet have seen, in a native of either 
sex, the initial lesion of this disease. While at Unalaska for nearly 
five years, I visited once and sometimes twice a year, professionally, 
every village from Attu to St. Michael. The only cases of this nature 
were two (neither of them natives), one of the soft and one of the 
hard variety, the latter being on the lower lip of a Portuguese on a 
passing whaler. Those large, deep, destructive, and foul-smelling 
ulcers so frequently seen in the villages on the coast of the Aleutian 
Islands may be the result of hereditary syphilis; yet the life, habits, 
quarters, and food of the people in these sections of Alaska are pro- 
ductive of the very worst forms of the scrofulitic lesions. 

The treatment consists in keeping the ulcers clean, the application 
of basilicin ointment to the ulcers, and the internal use of iodide of 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 125 

potassium. Very few cases resist this treatment if conscientiously 
carried out, but the good results of summer are only temporary, and 
often during the cold and inactive winter the glandular and cellular 
tissues again break down, only to run the same destructive course. 

Sunburn is a troublesome affection of summer only, attacking 
usually those on the " flaw " engaged in whaling. The first calm, 
bright, warm day, with the glare and reflection of the sun on the ice, 
the face and lips are scorched. The following day may be one of 
dampness and fog, which detaches the burnt epidermis and leaves the 
true skin exposed. This, again, before twenty-four hours, may 
receive the bites of a cold, icy wind, which cracks deeply this tender 
surface of the face and lips, until they have the appearance of having 
been slashed Avith a knife. The dark skins of the Eskimo resist the 
attacks of the sun; yet they, too, show considerable peeling. 

Suicides are not cou fined to warmer climates, for we had three cases 

in our midst to record. The first was Kelly, one of the men of 

the Belvedere. He had been suffering from an incurable malady, 
which, with the gloomy prospects before him, had so worked upon his 
mind, that in a fit of despondency he jumped into the stern hole of 
his vessel and was drowned. The second was " McGinty," the Eskimo 
mentioned above. Afflicted with chronic articular rheumatism for 
nearly three years, he had often begged his friends and relatives to 
kill him or furnish him with the means to accomplish the end him- 
self. After months of waiting his opportunity came. His little 
brothers were playing with a knife near him and left it lying within 
his reach. Anchylosis of his elbows, wrists, and fingers prevented 
his using the knife upon any other part but the supra-clavicular 
space. Here he forced it downward, and, severing the subclavian 
artery, soon expired. The third case of suicide is related by Mr. 
C. D. Brower, and Avas one of the ill-fated crew of the Navarch. 
Thirty of these men, after abandoning their ship, had attempted to 
reach the shore, and all but fifteen had died from exhaustion and 
starvation before they were finally rescued. The one in question 
wrote a note to his sister, and then gradually fell back to the rear, 
where he soon after shot himself. 

The Eskimo has no marriage ceremony. The children's future in 
this respect is arranged at an early age by the parents, and at the 
age of 1-t or 15 the girl joins her husband, usually at his home. If 
children are born, this relation is faithfully adhered to until the end; 
but if the union is childless the man seeks another wife. If there is 
no betrothal, the mother of the young man seeks a bride for him, and, 
when found, takes her home, where for a time the prospective bride 
assumes the part of a servant, under the direction of her future 
parents-in-law. If the young man is pleased with the domestic capa- 
bilities of the girl, the compact is sealed, and with the dogs and sled 
the couple set out on a wedding trip into the interior to engage in the 
annual fishing and hunting. 



126 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Sometimes, if the wife is sulky and disobedient, the husband admin- 
isters to her a sound thrashing, which often, instead of improving 
matters, causes her to run away, never to return. 

This seldom occurs, however, for the woman is too valuable a part 
of the Eskimo's household to receive any other than the best of treat- 
ment. She has a voice in all the home councils, and no trading or dispo- 
sition of goods takes place without her wishes having been consulted. 

Polygamj r is not common, though if a man is influential and well 
to do he may take an extra wife, who is subject to the whims and con- 
trol of his first choice, which latter always remains the ruling queen 
of the establishment and the mother of his children. The Eskimo is 
quite generous in his domestic relations. For instance, if his brother's 
wife dies, he willingly consents to a division of his own household, 
and presents his brother with one of his wives. Again, if a man 
wishes to go the 'interior to hunt and fish, and his own wife is not 
strong enough to endure the hardships and give him all the help 
required, he changes wives with a friend, and all goes well during the 
temporary sepai*ation. 

The burial of the dead among these northern tribes differs very 
much from that of the natives of southeastern Alaska, where crema- 
tion was once universally practiced. There was one exception, how- 
ever — that of the medicine man. He being possessed of a power and 
spirit which they wished to preserve, his body was hidden in the 
cliffs. Wherever civilized teachings and influences have been intro- 
duced, the dead are placed beneath the surface, and though the cere- 
mony of disposing of the remains of the Eskimo may differ, there is 
one thought which seems to be uppermost in their minds, and that is 
to place the body where it may not be seen and is protected from 
their dogs and the wild animals. 

At St. Lawrence, King, and the Diomede Islands the dead are hid- 
den among the rocks and cliffs, wrapped in their deerskins, and all 
their belongings, such as beads, finger rings, bracelets, and tobacco, 
are strewn about the body. 

The Chuckche deermen of northeastern Siberia place the corpse 
and all its belongings on the sled, and after slaughtering the dead 
man's best deer, the horns are added to the outfit and hauled several 
miles from the village. Here the horns are placed at one end of an 
oblong formation of rocks surrounding the body, which lies on the 
top of the ground. Several of these oblongs are also seen near the 
base of the granite cliffs about a mile from the present village on St. 
Lawrence Island. 

On Sledge Island, which is a short distance from the mainland of 
Alaska, is found the nearest approach to a coffin. The bodies are 
hidden in boxes made of poles and logs of driftwood, and slightly 
elevated. Several masks of the medicine men can be found around 
the graves. 

Along the beach of the coast of the Bering Sea and the Arctic 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 127 

Ocean one sees poles and logs of driftwood set up on end in conical 
piles. Each of these piles surrounds an Eskimo body. These monu- 
ments are sacred, and will not be disturbed or used for fuel unless 
the native, from association with white people, has lost his fear of 
the consequences. 

The most interesting graveyard in Alaska is at Point Hope. It is 
situated about a mile from the village, on slightly elevated ridges of 
sand and gravel covering the undulations of an extinct glacier. Most of 
the bodies are raised four to six feet from the ground and supported 
with structures made preferably of the jaws and ribs of the whale, while 
others are constructed of driftwood. Should a death occur in winter, 
when the snow lies on the ground hard and deep, the bodies ai-e laid 
out on the surface until the summer, when the snow disappears and 
enables the relatives to find material to build one of their scaffolds, on 
which the body is then placed. The most reasonable explanation for 
this method of disposing of the dead and that of leaving them on the 
surface is that the ground is always frozen hard even in summer and 
the thaw never extends deeper than 12 to 18 inches. These elevated 
graves are in all stages of ruin and decay, and scattered about beneath 
them, almost entirely hidden by the beautiful forget-me-nots, are the 
bones and skulls of the dead of many past generations. 

At Point Barrow the bodies are now generally inclosed in boxes 
made of lumber furnished by whites, and, owing to the influence of 
the missionaries a few are buried. 

Some of the most serious cases treated at Point Barrow from March 
29 to August 1, 1898, are: Abscess, pelvic, 1; abscess, axillary, 1; 
ansemia, 3; bronchitis, 7; corneitis, 5; constipation, 15; dysentery, 2; 
heart disease, 2; influenza, 26; iritis, specific, 1; laryngitis, chronic, 
1; nasal polypus, 1; neuralgia, 6; pneumonia, 3; rheumatism, 4; snow 
blindness, 43; suicide, 2; syphilis, hereditary, 9; scurvy, 4; diseased 
teeth extracted, 11; tonsilitis, 4; wounds, gunshot, 1; wounds, punc- 
tured, 6; wounds, incised, 7. 

It is not alone in city offices hung with gilded pictures, or waiting- 
rooms filled with rich and appreciative patients, that the pleasure 
and comfort of the practice of medicine is found. There is no portion 
of the habitable world, from the most learned and scientific of the 
Old to the simple and primitive of the New, but .that recognizes and 
receives with gratitude the services of a true and conscientious phy- 
sician, and though the good-natured and docile Eskimo may not be 
able to express in Avords his pleasure for what you have done, he pos- 
sesses facial expression and gestures which are unmistakable, and tell 
you without doubt that for you services, if he possessed it, he would 
lay at your feet the whole Avorld, and therein lies your compensation. 
Respectfully, yours, 

S. J. Call, Surgeon, R. C. S. 

First Lieut. D. H. Jarvis, R. C. S., 

Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 



MOVEMENTS OF THE BEAR SINCE JUNE 23. 189S. 



United States Revenue Cutter Bear, 

Seattle, Wash., September 15, 1S98. 

Sir: I have the honor to report the arrival of the U. S. revenue 
steamer Bear at Seattle, Wash., at 11 a. m., September 13, 1.898, from 
Point Barrow, Alaska, with the members of the overland relief expe- 
dition and the officers and seamen from the wrecked whalers Orca, 
Jesse H. Freeman, Rosario, Navarch, and the schooner L. J. Kenney, 
of Seattle, wrecked at Point Hope, Alaska, August 19, 189S, and I 
respectfully submit the following report of the movements of the Bear 
since my letter of June 23, dated at St. Michael: 

Such articles as Lieutenant Jarvis had mentioned as being indis- 
pensable were, so far as obtainable, procured at St. Michael, and Rev. 
Father Barnum, of the Catholic mission, came on board at that place 
for passage as my guest. Having information that the mail was to be 
delayed at Unalaska for an indefinite time, I concluded to start for 
the north, and left St. Michael at i. 30 p. m., July 7. 

On the 8th a short stop was made at Kings Island, where the natives 
were found in good condition. From Kings Island proceeded to Port 
Clarence, which was reached at 5.50 a. m., July 9. Four vessels of 
the whaling fleet and three for Kotzebue Sound that were found at 
anchor there were boarded and examined. 

On the 10th, Avhile on the way to the watering place, a stop was made 
at the reindeer station. Mr. Brevig had given out so much of his 
provisions on orders of the overland expedition that he was now short 
himself, so I gave him 500 pounds of flour and 5 pounds of tea, credit 
for which will be given in his bill against the overland expedition. 
From the reindeer station proceeded to the watering place to the 
southward of Cape Riley, reaching there 11.30 a. m. The boiler was 
blown down and watering ship commenced. Boiler was refilled and 
the fresh-water tanks were full a. m. of the 12th. Steam was raised 
and at 2.05 p. m. got under way for Point Spencer, anchoring there 
at 4.25 p. m. 

During our absence from the watering place the steamer Thrasher, 
from San Francisco, with supplies for the whalers in the north, and 
the schooner Bonanza, with supplies for H. Liebes's trading stations 
in the north, arrived. Mr. Koltchoff, who was landed with the over- 
land expedition at Cape Vancouver, came up on the Thrasher and 
128 




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CRUISE OP THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 129 

came on board the Bear to report. I had heard incidentally while at 
St. Michael that Lieutenant Bertholf, in obedience to orders from 
Lieutenant Jarvis, had discharged Koltchoff at St. Michael on Jan- 
uary 1. Instead of reporting at the reindeer station at ITnalaklik 
as ordered, he had gone overland with Mr. Tilton, who came down 
from the wrecked whalers. Koltchoff said Lieutenant Bertholf had 
given him a paper, the contents of which he claimed to be ignorant, 
which he had given to Lieutenant-Colonel Randall, United States 
Army, commanding at Fort St. Michael, and that Lieutenant-Colonel 
Randall, with Mr. Shepard, agent of the North American Trading and 
Transportation Company at Fort Get There, had sent him to assist 
Mr. Tilton to carry out the mail. I told Mr. Koltchoff that he had 
better go to the Port Clarence reindeer station and await the arrival 
of Dr. Jackson, who was daily expected. 

On the Bonanza were two natives from Point Hope who had accom- 
panied Mr. Tilton from Point Hope to San Francisco. H. Liebes & 
Co. had provided for them after their arrival at San Francisco and 
sent them back on the schooner Bonanza. As the ice might prevent 
the Bonanza from getting to Point Hope for some time, transporta- 
tion was given them on the Bear. 

At 11.30 p. m. July 12 got under way and stood for Cape Prince 
of Wales. Anchor was let go off the cape at 5.15 a. m. July 13, Avhen 
Rev. Mr. Lopp and natives came on board. Delivered to them such 
articles as we had been able to procure at St. Michael. An account 
of all articles purchased or delivered from the ship's stores, also of 
what is now due to people in the north on account of services ren- 
dered to the overland expedition, is being prepared by Lieutenant Jar- 
vis, who can not finish it until he has conferred with H. Liebes & Co. , 
at San Francisco, in regard to prices, as their agent at Point Barrow 
had instructions not to set any prices. That would be done at San 
Francisco when his account of expenditures to the shipwrecked men 
reached the office. H. Liebes & Co.'s agent at Point Hope charged 
some prices that appeared too high. Lieutenant Jarvis has a copy of 
his bill and will endeavor to have Liebes & Co. make some reduction. 

At 9.10 a. m. July 13 got under way and stood into Bering Straits. 
At noon stood to the eastward for Kotzebue Sound, which place was 
reached and an anchorage made off Cape Blossom at 2.30 p. m. Three 
barks at the anchorage Avere boarded and examined. They were 
loaded Avith prospectors and their supplies, bound for the rivers flow- 
ing into Hotham Inlet. A native presented an order from Lieutenant 
Jarvis, Avhich Avas filled. I could not learn that there Avere any more 
natiA r es on board avLlo had orders, but heard that some on shore had 
them. As it was about 10 miles to the \allage, I could not wait for 
them to come off, so at 6.20 p. hi. got under way and stood for Point 
Hope. At 6.20 p. m. July 15 anchored off Nelson's trading station, 
between Cape Thompson and Point Hope, where Lieutenant Bertholf 
15396 16 



130 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

reported on board. He had made Nelson's house his headquarters 
since his arrival at the station. The two natives brought from Port 
Clarence were landed here. Lieutenant Bertholf had carried out his 
instructions (a copy of which is appended) in a manner which met 
my entire approbation. In addition to caring for the strayed deer, he 
had destroyed the stills used by the natives in manufacturing liquor, 
and his presence prevented any of the white residents from entering 
into the manufacture of it. 

At 9.05 a. m. July 16 got under way and steamed for Point Hope, 
anchoring off the village there at 11.05 a. m. Communicated with the 
Rev. Dr. Driggs, in charge of the Episcopal Mission. No whales 
having been taken in the spring whaling, the natives would be very 
short of food during the coming winter, and nearly all of them had 
gone down the coast to endeavor to catch a supply of salmon for 
winter use. At 4.25 p. m. steamed to the Liebes' station and anchored 
for the night. 

At 9.45 a. m. July 17 steamed to Nelson's station and took on 
board a native, who asked to be taken to Point Barrow, and at 1.35 
steamed to the northward around Point Hope. At 11.16 p. m. passed 
Cape Lisburne and sighted the first drift ice seen in the Arctic. 
Laid course to make the land between Point Lay and Cape Beaufort, 
in order to meet any boats Lieutenant Jarvis might have sent from 
Point Barrow. 

At 2 p. m. July 18 made the land to the southward of Point Lay 
and steamed along in sight of the beach, keeping a good lookout for 
signals or boat. At 4.20 p. m. anchored off a native village to south- 
ward of Point Lay, where natives came on board and reported that 
no white men had passed by. 

At 2.15 a. m. Jul} 7 19 under way to the northward, and at 6 a. m. 
sighted a native boat coming off through the ice. It came alongside 
at 6.30, and contained a party from Point Barrow, sent by Lieutenant 
Jarvis, in charge of Capt. A. C. Sherman, of the wrecked steamer 
Orca. The party was taken on board, with their boat, and the vessel 
proceeded to within 5 miles of Icy Cape, where we came to anchor at 
2.35 p. m. on account of heavy ice ahead. 

Lieutenant Jarvis informed me that, the schooner Rosario had been 
crushed by the ice on July 2; crew all saved. His last information 
from the vessels to the eastward of Point Barrow was on June 19, 
and at that time they were all right. The Belvedere was all right on 
June 10, but short of provisions, and Lieutenant Jarvis hoped I could 
get some to her, where she lay, at the Sea Horse Islands, some SO 
miles from Icy Cape. The men at Point Barrow were all right, with 
provisions enough to last until August 15. If the Bear did not 
arrive by August 1, lie thought it best to start some of them down the 
coast to meet the vessel. 

At 4.35 a. m. July 20 made an attempt to get through the ice to 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S- REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 131 

the northwestward. Worked until 2.20 p. m., when the attempt Avas 
given tip, and stood to the southward until 10 p. ni. before getting 
clear of the ice; 11.40 p. in. anchored to the southward of Point Lay. 

On the 21st fresh northerly winds and drift outside kept us at 
anchor throughout the day. 

At 8.30 a. in. July 22 worked through the ice to Icy Cape, anchoring 
there at 12.55 p. m. Ice still heavy to the northward and westward. 

On July 23, there appearing to be little or no change in the ice, 
concluded to send Lieutenant Hamlet in the native boat to carry pro- 
visions to the Belvedere and then proceed to Point Barrow and com- 
municate with Lieutenant Jarvis. At 9.55 a. m. Lieutenant Hamlet 
started with 400 pounds of flour, 96 pounds of corned beef, and 85 
pounds of beans for the Belvedere, and some small stores for Lieutenant 
Jarvis. 

Remained at anchor off Icy Cape until July 26, the ice frequently 
compelling' us to shift anchorage to keep clear. At 4.25 a. m. July 
26, the ice appealing to have opened, stood around Blossom Shoals, 
and at noon laid course for Point Belcher; 6.20 p. m., a dense fog set- 
ting in and the water shoaling^ came to anchor; 11 p. m., the fog 
lifting, found we were off Wainwright Inlet. Got under way and 
stood along the coast. Snowing at intervals. 

At 2.55 a. m. July 27, off Point Belcher, went behind the ground 
ice and anchored to await the drifting by of the floe ice; 6;40 p. m., 
the ice looking more favorable, stood for Point Barrow outside the 
ground ice. We passed through fields of heavy ice until 11 p. m., 
and then found comparatively open water. Saw the Belvedere in 
Pearl Bay, but the ice would not allow us to approach within 10 miles 
of her, and therefore did not stop. 

At 5 a. m. July 28 sighted the relief station at Point Barrow. 
Heavy ground ice, with open water inside, extended from Point Shed- 
don to Point Barrow. There being no opening through it, at 8 a. m. 
made fast on the outside, at a point a mile to the southward of the 
station, the Bear being the first vessel to arrive this season. Lieuten- 
ant Jarvis and a large party came across the ice to the vessel. As lie 
had issued rations to the wrecked men until the 30th of July, I 
directed most of them to remain where they were, ashore, until the 
rations were consumed. Twenty-six, however, were taken on board 
immediately. 

On the 29th the steam whaler Jeannette arrived and made fast to 
the ice to the southward of us. The steamers Fearless and Newport 
appeared to the eastward of Point Barrow, but could not get around 
the point on account of the ice. Received news from the Newport 
that she was leaking badly and needed oakum, spikes, and nails to 
make repairs. These articles Avere furnished immediately. Nothing 
was heard of the Jeanie, still to the eastward. If it had been known 
she was out of danger, the wrecked men could have been taken on 



132 CRUISE OP THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

board and the Bear could have started on the return trip at once. 
As it was, I thought it would not be prudent to leave until I was 
assured of her safety. On July 30, 66 more of the shipwrecked men 
came on board, increasing the number to 97. In the afternoon of the 
30th there were large pieces of ice drifting along with the current. 
Fearing they might strike the vessel and part the mooring lines, got 
under way and steamed into an indentation in the ground ice where 
the steamer Jeannette was made fast. A suitable mooring place was 
found and the vessel made fast to the ground ice. On the 30th Lieu- 
tenant Hamlet arrived. He had delivered the supplies to the Belve- 
dere, and reported that as soon as a southwest wind came to clear 
away the ice she would start for Port Clarence for coal. The vessel 
was in good condition. 

On August 1st and 2d loose ice would drift in and pack around the 
vessel where she lay in the indentation in the ice. As there was only a 
trifling pressure, no danger was anticipated. At 2 p. m. August 3 
came a sudden pressure of the ice, the four forward fasts carried 
away, and the vessel forced astern about five feet. The pressure then 
coming against the starboard side forced the port side against the 
ground ice. A point of ice under water abreast the engine room, the 
weakest place in the vessel, as there are no athwartship timbers there, 
forced the port side in sufficiently to buckle the engine-room floor 
plates. Men were immediately sent with ice chisels and the ice cut 
away. As soon as the ice was removed the pressure at that point 
ceased and the floor plates dropped back into place. The after sec- 
tion of the rudder was sprung about an eighth of an inch. The ice 
was cut. from around the rudder and the pressure on that removed. 
So far as can be seen (while the vessel is in the water) no material 
damage was done by the nip. A vessel less strongly constructed would 
have been crushed at once. 

When the weather cleared up it could be seen that the pack had 
swung in upon the ground ice. Being in the indentation was the 
only thing that saved the Jeannette and the Bear. Knowing that if a 
southwest gale sprung up the pack would again move and nothing 
could save the vessel, I had a large quantity of provisions brought on 
deck and placed so they could readily be passed to the ground ice in 
the event of another nip. The ship's papers and books were also 
packed ready for removal. From the 3d until the 14th of August we 
remained in suspense. On the morning of the 3d the Jeanie came in 
sight to the eastward of Point Barrow. During the forenoon the 
Jeanie, Fearless, and Newport got around Point Barrow and came 
down inside the ground ice to abreast where we were. These vessels 
Avere aU short of provisions — the Newport and Fearless short of coal. 
They were supplied with such quantities as could be spared from the 
Bear. Bills for the same have already been sent to their owners. 




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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 133 

Several days "were spent in dragging the articles over the very rough 
ice on sleds. 

On the 5th, 391 reindeer were transferred to Dr. Marsh, Govern- 
ment school-teacher, who also represented the Presbyterian mission. 
As he was without provisions to maintain the herders, and the camp 
equipage was worn out, no provision having been made for their sup- 
port by the mission, the following articles were given them from the 
ship's stores: 1,000 primers, 100 cartridges (.-45-70), 12-^ pounds pow- 
der, 2 brooms, 50 pounds soap, 2 axes, 1 shovel, 1 box copper rivets, 
1 tent, 1 camp stove, 200 pounds pork, 36 pounds coffee, 176 pounds 
beans, and 140 pounds sugar. 

On the 7th an attempt was made to blast a channel through the 
ground ice to the clear water inside. After expending 150 pounds of 
powder (100 pounds borrowed from the Newport) the attempt was 
given up. The effect upon the ice, which averaged 30 feet in thick- 
ness, was so slight that sufficient powder could not be procured to 
blast out a channel. While the blasting was going on, Captain 
McKenna, of the Fearless, got his vessel under way and endeavored 
to help by ramming the ice. His efforts were, however, useless. 

On the 14th the ice offshore commenced to move rapidly to the 
northward. On the morning of the 15th, commenced using small 
blasts of powder to remove spur pieces of ice near the ship. During 
the morning a lead broke through the ground ice to the southward of 
us. In the afternoon the ice offshore commenced to disappear, and 
the pressure on the vessel diminished considerably, but there was 
still several yards of ice heavily packed between us and clear water. 
A strong northeast wind coming up, all sail was made and thrown 
aback to. help press the vessel off. At 6.15 p. m. the Fearless and 
Newport got under way, steamed out through the lead, and came 
down abreast of us with the intention of pulling out the pieces of ice 
until we were free. Just as they were commencing a dense fog came 
up, and large quantities of heavy drift ice commenced to come in, 
obliging them to stop and seek shelter from the ice. 

The morning of the 16th the fog lifted, showing clear water about 
250 yards distant, and blasting was again commenced to clear away 
the ice. Lieutenant Jarvis and Dr. Call came on board with the part 
of the Belvedere 's crew that had been at the station. At 7.25 the 
Jeannette was clear of the ice and steamed to the southward. I was 
surprised to see her leave without offering to assist us, but I after- 
wards learned from Captain jSTewth that he was ill in his bunk at the 
time. When informed that the Jeannette was clear, he had asked the 
mate about the Bear, and had been told by him that she would be 
clear in about fifteen minutes. Under these circumstances he told 
the mate to take the Jeannette to a safe place. 

The Newport was at anchor at Wallapi, 5 miles distant, and when 



134 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

at 10 o'clock Captain Leavitt saw that the Bear had not moved, lie 
got his vessel under yv&y to come to our assistance. He arrived in 
time to make fast to one piece of ice, and when that was out of the 
wa} 1- the Bear was free, and steamed to an anchorage off Refuge Inlet, 
which she reached at 1.55 p. in. Here the Fearless came alongside 
and was given 15 tons of coal. Captain Newth of the Jeannette being 
too ill to continue with his vessel, was taken on board for passage 
home. Mr. C. D. Brower, Liebes's agent at Point Barrow, desired 
to accompany Lieutenant Jarvis to San Francisco to satisfactorily 
adjust the claims on account of the shipwrecked men, and was also 
given passage. The deer herders who accompanied Mr. Lopp were 
also given passage to their homes. 

The Fearless having been north several years, some of her crew 
desired to exchange with the shipwrecked men who were willing to 
remain. This thej were allowed to do. At 9.25 a. m. August 17, got 
under way and stood toward the Sea Horse Islands. Fog set in and 
much drift ice was met, and at -4 p. m. stood to southward to make 
the land. At 7 the fog lifted, and at 7.06 sighted the whaling fleet at 
anchor to the eastward of Sea Horse Islands. At 8.55 anchored near 
the fleet, consisting of the Alexander, Belvedere, Boivhead, Karluck, 
Wm. Bayliss, Fearless, and Newport. The men of the crew of the 
Belvedere brought by us from Point Barrow were put on board their 
vessel, and six of the shipwrecked men left to join whaling vessels. 
The Bear remained to give the people on the ships an opportunity to 
prepare mail. 

On the morning of the 18th two sick seamen were received from the 
Belvedere for transportation to a hospital. At 12. 10 p. m. got under way 
and stood to the westward, and at 12.40 anchored near the schooner 
Bonanza, supply vessel for Mr. C. D. Brower's station. Finding there 
was an ample supply of potatoes on the schooner, and the supply on 
the Bear being exhausted, I purchased twenty-five boxes for the crew 
and the shipwrecked men. They Avill be included in H. Liebes & 
Co.'s bill. At 1.55 got under way and stood for Blossom Shoals. At 
7 a. m., being around the shoals, laid course for Point Hope, which 
was reached at 8.30 a. m. on the 20th. 

Communicated with the shore and learned that on the previous day 
the schooner Louise J. Kenney, of Seattle, was in a dangerous posi- 
tion in the breakers near Cooper's station, 8 miles east of Point Hope. 
Started immediately for the place, and upon arriving there found the 
vessel broadside on the beach and in a position where the Bear could 
be of no tissistance on account of the shoal water. The master of the 
vessel came on board and said the vessel was full of water and the 
cargo ruined. He requested passage for himself and crew to Seattle, 
and boats were lowered and sent ashore for them and their effects. 
A nasty surf was running, and it was with difficulty they were taken 
off. Two natives came on board with a communication from Dr. 



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CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 135 

Sheldon Jackson, addressed to whoever was in charge of the reindeer 
near Point Iiope, directing that the deer be turned over to the two 
natives, who were Government herders. Got under way and steamed 
to Nelson's whaling station, where Lieutenant Bertholf went ashore 
and di reeled that the deer he delivered according to Dr. Jackson's 
request. The three herders who had been in charge of the deer were 
taken on board for transportation to their homes. 

The master of the wrecked schooner informed me that the 3 r ear's 
supplies for the three missionaries at Cape Blossom, Kotzebue Sound, 
were lost with the rest of the cargo of the vessel. As they could not 
live through the winter without supplies. I deemed it niy duty to 
call at Cape Blossom to inform them of their loss, and to offer them 
passage to St. Michael or elsewhere, and accordingly the vessel Avas 
headed for Cape Blossom, which place was reached at 12.20 p. m. on the 
21st. Lieutenant Bertholf, knowing where the mission was located, 
was sent ashore to proffer the aid. The barks Hay den Brown and 
Northern Light were at anchor off the Cape, and Captain TVliitesides, 
of the Northern Light, informed me that he was Avaiting for passen- 
gers and had nearly the full number engaged. 

The Kotzebue Sound gold rush was a failure. He had been in the 
sound a couple of months and had not heard of any gold strikes. He 
estimated that at least three-fourths of the 2,000 people Avho Avere 
there, many of them with two years' proA'isions, would return. There 
were five barks at the southern end of Kotzebue Sound taking in 
ballast preparatory to taking passengers from Cape Blossom. In that 
case there Avill be no lack of transportation for those who desire to 
return. 

The schooner JEtna, of San Francisco, having lost her anchor, Avas 
given a 500-pound kedge, the owners at San Francisco to replace it 
on board the Bear upon her arrival. At 11.45 p. m. Lieutenant 
Bertholf returned on board. The missionaries, haAring obtained sup- 
plies from returning miners, AA r ere going to remain at their station 
during the Avinter. Some articles needed by Lieutenant Jarvis to 
pay off natiA-es at Cape Prince of Wales for services in the OA r erland 
expedition AA r ere purchased from Captain Whitesides, of the Northern 
Light. 

Lieutenant Bertholf reported that he had met a number of men 
ashore who claimed to be stranded miners and avIio wished a passage 
on the Bear. As the A'essel Avas already OA-ercrowded and there Avere 
other means of transportation at hand, their request could not be 
granted. 

At 1.20 a. m. on the 23d got under way for Cape Prince of Wales, 
which AA T as reached at 10 p. m. the same day. ReA r . W. T. Lopp came 
on board to settle accounts of the reindeer portion of the OA^erland 
expedition. Mr. Lopp said that by the terms of the agreement Avith 
Lieutenant Jarvis the Treasury Avas responsible for the return of the 



136 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

deer he drove to Point Barrow. If Lieutenant Jarvis had not made 
this agreement he would not have given up the deer or gone with 
them. Without the reindeer and . the assistance of Mr. Lopp the 
relief expedition would have gone no farther, so Lieutenant Jarvis 
was obliged to accept the terms. As but 156 deer had been returned 
by the Interior Department agent, and there was no prospect of 
receiving any more from that source, he requested that the deer 
remaining at Point Barrow and Point Hope be returned to him and 
Charlie Artisarlook, 138 head, with increase, being due Charlie. 

The captain of a whaling steamer that was to leave in a few days 
for Point Barrow had agreed to carry Mr. Lopp's herders to that 
place. I accordingly sent directions to Dr. Marsh to turn over the 
herd to Mr. Lopp's herders, who will start them south as soon as the 
weather is favorable. Mr. Lopp expects to be reimbursed for the 
expense of driving the deer back to his mission. The herders at 
Point Hope were sent orders similar to those sent to Dr. Marsh. 

At 6.45 a. m. on the 23d got under way for Port Clarence, which was 
reached at 1 p. in. Found steamers Jeanie, Newport, and Thrasher 
and the bark J. D. Peters anchored in the bay. Captain Sherman, of 
the wrecked whaler Orca, came on board for passage down ; also Anton 
Roderik, from the Newport. At 8.25 got under way for St. Michael. 
On the way made a call at Kings Island, and at Point Rodney to land 
Charlie Artisarlook. 

St. Michael was reached at 3.45 a. m. on the 25th. The vessels in 
port were boarded and examined. Lieutenant Jarvis and Lieutenant 
Bertholf went on shore to arrange the bills owed by the overland 
expedition to the North American Trading and Transportation Com- 
pany and the Alaska Coniinercial Company. Eight of the shipwrecked 
whalers, having obtained employment ashore, left the vessel. The 
business ashore being finished, at 11.15 p. m. August 26 got under 
way for Unalaska, which was reached, after rather a rough passage, 
at 1.05 p. m. August 31. II. M. S. Pheasant was found in port, and 
on the 2d of September H. M. S. Amphion and Icarus arrived. The 
usual courtesies were exchanged with each. 

The boiler was blown down and preparations made for coaling and 
watering ship. At 1.15 p. m., having finished watering and coaling, 
and all preparations completed, cast off from the wharf and steamed 
out of the harbor. At 4.55 p. m., being through Unalga Pass, set 
course for Cape Flattery. Rough weather was experienced the first 
four days out; after thatmoderate and foggy. Waddah Island was 
sighted at 2.15 p. m. September 12, and a stop was made to commu- 
nicate with the Department by telegraph. Port Townsend was reached 
at 2 a. m. 13th. A dense fog and thick smoke compelled us to anchor 
until 6 a. m. Then, the fog partially lifting, got under way for Seat- 
tle, which was reached at 11 a. in., September 13, after an absence of 



CKIIISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 137 

nine months and sixteen days, most of the time spent in a dreary 
country and very inclement weather. 

The officers and crew bore the monotonous isolation with the great- 
est patience, complaints being almost unheard of. The courage, for- 
titude, and perseverance shown by the members of the overland 
expedition is deserving of the highest commendation. Starting over 
a route seldom traveled before by dog sleds, with a herd of over 400 
reindeer to drive and care for, they pushed their way through what 
at times seemed impassable obstacles, across frozen seas, and over 
snow-clad mountains, with tireless energy until Point Barrow was 
reached and the object of the expedition successfully accomplished. 

I respectfully recommend that the heroic services of First Lieut. 
D. II. Jarvis, Second Lieut, E. P. Bertholf, and Surg. S. J. Call 
should meet with- such recognition as the Depai-tment sees fit to 
bestow. 

As mentioned in my letter of June 23, 1898, Rev. W. T. Lopp and 
Charlie Artisarlook, who gave up their herd of reindeer, left their 
families, and accompanied the expedition to Point Barrow, are deserv- 
ing of substantial rewards for the sacrifices they made and the hard- 
ships they endured. 

Respectfully, yours, F. Tuttle, 

Captain, R. C. S., 
Commanding U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear. 

The Secretary of the Treasury, 

Washington, D. C. 



U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear, 
Seattle, Wash., September 15, 1898. 
Sir: In accordance with verbal ordei's 1'eceived from yourself, I 
have the honor to submit the following summary of medical reports 
for the time during which I have been in charge of that department, 
from December 15, 1S97, to September 15, 1898, both inclusive: 

Whites (male) _ . 518 

Women and children (white) 43 

Natives (males) 75 

Natives (women and children) 235 

Officers and crew ._ _ 686 



Total number treated 1,55' 



The prevailing diseases were as follows: Consumption, pneumonia, 
pleurisy, heart disease, gastritis, tonsilitis, diarrhea, constipation, 
dyspepsia, neuralgia, muscular rheumatism, tubercular glands and 
joints, gonorrhea, syphilis, orchitis, synovitis, cystitis, eczema, pedic- 

1539G 17 



138 CRUISE OP THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

uli, minor injuries to limbs and head, uterine diseases, la grippe, 
nasal catarrh, conjunctivitis, and scabies. 

One death at Unalaska, Mrs. Shaishnakoff, aged 65, cancer of the 
stomach and liver. 

The crew at present are in excellent health, with none on the sick 

list. 

Respectfully, yours, 

E. H. Woodruff, 

Assistant Surgeon, U. S. Revenue Cutter Bear. 

Capt. Francis Tuttle, R. C. S., 

Commanding. 



APPENDIX. 



U. S. Revenue Steamer Bear, 
Cape Vancouver, Alaska, December 16, 1897. 

Sir: You are detailed to take charge of the overland party from 
the Bear for the relief of the whalers at Point Barrow. Lieut. E. P. 
Bertholf, Revenue-Cutter Service, Surg. S. J. Call, and F. Koltchoff 
will comprise the party from the vessel. Inclosed are instructions 
from the Department by which you will he guided as far as practica- 
ble. They are so full as to cover every point and leave me little to 
add. The party will be under your sole control, and you will make 
such disposition of them as may seem most advisable to you, under 
any and all circumstances. 

Whenever it becomes necessary to employ natives and their outfits 
of dogs and sleds, or procure provisions from them, make a note of 
the articles and amounts promised for same; if practicable, give the 
natives a copy to present when the Bear is met, and the articles will 
be delivered. 

The Department does not, in its letter, mention the whalers to the 
eastward of Point Barrow. If you hear from them, use your own 
judgment as to what can be done for their relief. At this distance and 
utter lack of knowledge of their circumstances, it is impossible for 
me to give any directions. I shall leave Unalaska as early as there 
will be anjr possible chance to get through the ice. If St. Michael be 
open I shall call there. If not, Port Clarence and Cape Prince of 
Wales will be visited in search of news of the expedition. I hope to 
reach Point Hope early in July. Should any of the whalers be there, 
will land provisions enough to last them until I return from Point 
Barrow. If any part of the expedition should be along the shores, I 
suggest you direct them to make smudges of heavy smoke to attract 
attention on board the Bear, should she be sighted. A good lookout 
will be kept from the vessel for such signals. In conclusion, any 
matters that may come up that are not covered by these instructions 
are left to your own judgment, and whatever you do will meet with 
the approval of the Department. If opportunity offers, communicate 
with me at Unalaska, and leave information as to your progress at 
Port Clarence, Cape Prince of Wales, Kotzebue Sound, and Point 

139 



140 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Hope, to be picked up on the arrival of the Bear at these places. 
Also, if possible, send copies of all communications to the Department. 
Respectfully, yours, 

F. TUTTLE, 

Captain, JR. C. S., Commanding. 
First Lieut. D. II. Jarvis, R. C. S., 

U. S. Revenue Steamer Bear. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 
Kiyilieugamute, Alaska, December 20, 1897. 
Sir: Not being able to obtain dogs at this place, as expected, and 
the teams on yours and Koltchoff's sleds being nearly worn out, I will 
go on ahead with my sled and Dr. Call's sled and leave you and Kolt- 
choff with Alexis Kalenin to come on as soon as the necessary dogs 
return. Lose no time in following and come direct to Andreafski, on 
the Yukon, and from there to St. Michael. I will make what arrange- 
ments I can for you at both places, and should you not reach either 
place before I leave, I will leave all necessary instructions for your 
guidance. Anything you may need for your journey can be obtained 
by drawing on the Alaska Commercial Company at both places. 
Respectfully, yours, 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S. , 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 
Second Lieut. E. P. Bertholf, R. C. S. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 

Unalakleet, Alaska, January J/., 1898. 
Sir: I inclose a list of provisions that I have left with Mr. Edwin 
Englestadt, of this place, to be filled, and which are to be taken across 
the portage between Norton Sound and Escholtz Bay to Cape Blossom, 
Kotzebue Sound. I have engaged Mr. Englestadt and three teams for 
the trip, and upon your arrival you will take charge of the outfit and 
proceed with them to Cape Blossom. A little north of the Eskimo 
rendezvous at that place is Mr. Robert Samms, a Quaker missionary, 
and you will await there my arrival or such orders as I may send to 
you. I will leave here in the morning for Cape Prince of Wales. 
Very respectfully, 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 
Second Lieut. E. P. Bertholf, R. C. S. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 141 

List of provisions to be taken to Cape Blossom. 

Pounds. 

Flour ..500 

Butter 20 

Rice - - 50 

Beans 80 

Sugar _ 50 

Tea 50 

Tobacco 40 

Bacon 100 

Coffee 30 

Bread 100 

One-half box baking powder. 

One-half tin matches. 

10 pounds smoking tobacco and cob pipes, for me personally. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 
Point Rodney, Alaska, January 20, 1898. 
Sir: You will remain here until the arrangements to move Artisar- 
look's reindeer herd are completed, and will then proceed by way of 
Port Clarence with this herd to join me on the north side of Cape 
Prince of Wales at the point where the reindeer herd of that place is 
located, which is about 20 miles distant from the cape. 

I will leave for that point this morning, and you will follow with as 
little delay as possible. 

Respectfully, yours, D. H. Jarvis, 

First Lieutenant, R. C. S. , 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 
Surg. S. J. Call, R. C. S. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 
Cape Blossom, Alaska, February 15, 1898. 
Sir: You will remain at this place until the arrival of the reindeer 
herd in charge of Mr. W. T. Lopp, and consult with him as to its 
further progress to Point Barrow. Should the necessity arise you 
will proceed Avith the herd, but if not, after determining the route it 
shall take and seeing it well started, you will proceed to Point Hope 
for further instructions. I would suggest that the route along or 
near the coast to Kivalena and then across to the northward of Cape 
Beaufort would seem advisable, in that the herd at all times will be 
within reasonable communication with Point Hope. Turn over to 
Mr. Lopp the provisions at this place and make any other arrange- 
ments he may need. I will proceed to Point Barrow along the coast, 
and will endeavor to have communication opened between that place 
and Point Hope. 

Respectfully, yours, D. H. Jarvis, 

First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 
Second Lieut. E. P. Bertholf, R. C. S. 



142 CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 

Overland Relief Expedition, 

Point Hope, Alaska, March 5, 1S98. 

Sir: I will leave here to-day, together with Surgeon Call, for Point 
Barrow. You will remain here and care for all matters relating to 
the overland relief expedition in this region, and cany ont the plans 
we have discussed for the return of Mr. W. T. Lopp and the deer 
herders in the spring, and also for the assistance of the members of 
the wrecked crews from Point Barrow to this place, and upon their 
arrival make arrangements for their care. 

Give your attention to the illicit distilling of spirituous liquor by 
the natives here, and take such action as you may deem necessary 
for the enforcement of law. A particularly noticeable murder was 
committed here last fall by two natives, Avulik and Shukurana. 
Take such action as you may deem necessary for apprehending the 
murderers and collecting evidence. I will communicate with you from 
Point Barrow whenever possible, and keep you informed of affairs 
there if occasion offers. Upon the arrival of the U. S. revenue cutter 
Bear, report to Capt. F. Tuttle, commanding. 
Respectfully, yours, 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 

Second Lieut. E. P. Bertholf, R. C. S. 



Cape Smythe, Alaska, March 29, 1S9S. 

Dear Sir: The crews of the Orca, Freeman, Belvedere, and the 
survivors of the Navarch would respectfully entreat you, in company 
with the doctor of the Bear, to visit our quarters and inspect them, to 
do what lays in your power to obtain a change for us. 

We think that some arrangement can be made. "We have no facili- 
ties for keeping ourselves clean. There is one man at present under 
the care of Dr. Marsh for scurvy, and another man is confined to his 
bed with all the symptoms of scurvy. In justice to all we have no 
complaints to make, but there are evils which we can not avoid, but 
which you can rectify. 

James McDonald, 

For the Orca. 
Phil. Manx, 

For the Freeman. 
John Keeffe, 

For the Belvedere. 
Thos. G. Lord, 

For the Navarch. 



CRUISE OF THE U. S. REVENUE CUTTER BEAR. 143 

Point Barrow, Alaska, June 9, 189S. 
Sir: Herewith we have the honor to submit the result of the post- 
mortem examination held on the body of Phillip Mann, who died 
suddenly yesterday evening: 

The brain, lungs, stomach, liver, kidneys 3 intestines, and bladder 
were normal. The heart was very much enlarged, pale, and non- 
resistant, with large accumulations of fat around the base, and the 
walls were twice the normal thickness. The auriculo-ventricular 
opening and mitral valve were defective and showed many calcareous 
deposits. 

From the above conditions we conclude that the subject died of 
fatty heart. 

Respectfully, j-ours, S. J. Call, 

Surgeon, R. C. S. 
H. R. Marsh, M. D., 

Assisting. 
First Lieut. D. H. Jar vis, R. C. S., 

Commanding Overland Relief 'Expedition. 



jiccount of the reindeer used in the overland expedition. 

Received from Artisarlook 133 

Bought at Point Rodney 5 

Received from Mr. W. T. Lopp et al 292 

Bought at Cape Prince of "Wales 9 

Received from Taotuk___ _ 2 

Received from Government herd _.. 5 

Received from Golovin Bay herd 2 

448 

Lost and killed en route . _ ... 66 

Killed for food at Point Barrow 180 

Died at Point Barrow 1 

247 

201 

Fawns horn at Point Barrow 254 

Fawns died at Point Barrow 64 

190 

Remaining at Point Barrow 391 

Received at Point Hope 34 

Killed for food 5 

29 

Fawns born at Point Hope 25 

Fawns died at Point Hope _. 6 

19 

Remaining at Point Hope. 48 

48 



Total deer remaining at Point Barrow and Point Hope 439 



144 cruise of the u. s. revenue cutter bear. 

Overland Relief Expedition, 
Point Rodney, Alaska, January 20, 1898. 

Received from Artisarlook (Charlie), native of this place, 133 rein- 
deer for the use of the overland relief expedition to Point Barrow. 

These reindeer are given to the United States Treasury Department 
with the understanding that they are to be replaced in the summer of 
1S98, together with the estimated increase in the herd for the coming 
spring, about 80 fawns, thns making 213 reindeer in all to be replaced. 
Should this not be done the coming season, the increase of the fol- 
lowing year will have to be considered in the settlement. 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland Relief Expedition. 



Overland Relief Expedition, 
Cape Prince of Wales, Alaska, January 25, 1898. 
Received from Mr. W. W. Lopp, representing the American Mis- 
sionary Association, 292 reindeer for the use of the overland relief 
expedition to Point Barrow, Alaska. 

These reindeer are given to the United States Treasury Department 
with the understanding that they are to be replaced in the summer of 
1898, together with the estimated increase in the herd for the coming 
season, about 140 fawns, thus making 432 reindeer in all to be 
replaced. 

Should this not be done the coming season, the increase of the fol- 
lowing year will have to be considered in the settlement. 

D. H. Jarvis, 
First Lieutenant, R. C. S., 
Commanding Overland. Relief Expedition. 






^^^^^■^^^^■BiBj|^^nHBHBnMn|nnBj 



REPORT 



OF 



The Cruise of the D. S. Revenue Cutter Bear 



AND THE 



OVERLAND EXPEDITION 



FOB THE 



RELIEF OF THE WHALERS BT THE 
ARCTIC OCEAIs , 



FROM 



NOVEMBER 27, 1897, TO SEPTEMBER 13, 1898. 



WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

1899. 



TRACK CHART OF CRUISE OF U. S. REV. STEAMER "BEAR" 

AND 

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO THE RELIEF OF WHALERS L\ ARCTIC OCEAN. 
NUTEHBER an. 18»T. TO SEPTEMBER 13. 1398. 







Expedition In Winter 



I 

TRACK'S ON LAND 

11 *nd I> Call** Overlsnd Trip 

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